MrJacques Posted September 27, 2019 Share Just a quick question on truing. I've watched a few videos and there seems to be 2 main techniques. Which is the better one? a: Tighten a spokeb: Tighten a spoke and loosen the 2 surrounding spokes Edit: I had a quick look in Jobst's book and method b looks to be the better way. Method a might work, but could affect the radial truing. There's a lot going on with wheel building and truing... radial, lateral, tension, dishing, it's quite the balancing act! Edited September 27, 2019 by Jacquers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted September 30, 2019 Share Just a quick question on truing. I've watched a few videos and there seems to be 2 main techniques. Which is the better one? a: Tighten a spokeb: Tighten a spoke and loosen the 2 surrounding spokes Edit: I had a quick look in Jobst's book and method b looks to be the better way. Method a might work, but could affect the radial truing. There's a lot going on with wheel building and truing... radial, lateral, tension, dishing, it's quite the balancing act! Depends why the wheel is out. If it's just one loose spoke, tighten it. If there's more going on you'll need to balance tension wile keeping true, dish and hop in balance. Which is where a truing stand and lots of practice come into play. If you're just tightening up one spoke you can also overtension it, causing it to either snap or pull through the rim. MrJacques 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJacques Posted September 30, 2019 Share Depends why the wheel is out. If it's just one loose spoke, tighten it. If there's more going on you'll need to balance tension wile keeping true, dish and hop in balance. Which is where a truing stand and lots of practice come into play. If you're just tightening up one spoke you can also overtension it, causing it to either snap or pull through the rim. Thanks. I broke a spoke, so hopefully replacing it will bring the wheel (mostly) back to being straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted October 3, 2019 Share When replacing the spoke, tension it up slowly, and pluck it like a guitar string. Compare its sound to the spokes next to it on the SAME side of the wheel. Once it "sounds" like the spokes on either side of it, you should be good to go, and the wheel should be fairly true, assuming it was built properly originally. MrJacques, NickD and Opc_danny 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJacques Posted October 9, 2019 Share I'm looking for a spoke to replace a broken one. It's a straight pull, 270 mm. From an old Mavic Crossride 26 rear wheel. It doesn't need to be bladed and the others have square 3.2mm nipples, which I have spares from another wheelset. Went to the LBS yesterday and they didn't seem very keen to help. If anyone can help I'd appreciate it. Edited October 9, 2019 by Jacquers Jewbacca 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin PJ Posted October 9, 2019 Share I'm looking for a spoke to replace a broken one. It's a straight pull, 270 mm. From an old Mavic Crossride 26 rear wheel. It doesn't need to be bladed and the others have square 3.2mm nipples, which I have spares from another wheelset. Went to the LBS yesterday and they didn't seem very keen to help. If anyone can help I'd appreciate it. Rapide.co.za sell them. MrJacques 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted October 9, 2019 Share I can do any straight pull from 209 to 300 mm. Flat as opposed to bladed. MrJacques, svacha and Schnavel 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted October 9, 2019 Share I'm looking for a spoke to replace a broken one. It's a straight pull, 270 mm. From an old Mavic Crossride 26 rear wheel. It doesn't need to be bladed and the others have square 3.2mm nipples, which I have spares from another wheelset. Went to the LBS yesterday and they didn't seem very keen to help. If anyone can help I'd appreciate it.Hey Jacquers I have a whole heap of old Mavic nipples and original black and silver spokes from a 26er wheelset. Let me know if you want me to send some pictures. PM me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJacques Posted October 9, 2019 Share Thanks for the responses, much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted May 21, 2020 Share Ever wondered why having the correct length spokes is so important? I was asked about it, so wrote an article on it, which you can find here:http://www.wheelbuilder.co.za/how-to-calculate-spoke-lengths/ gemmerbal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted May 21, 2020 Share Ever wondered why having the correct length spokes is so important? I was asked about it, so wrote an article on it, which you can find here:http://www.wheelbuilder.co.za/how-to-calculate-spoke-lengths/As I complete noob I'd say cause either the spokes won't reach the rim or poke through the rim tape nick_the_wheelbuilder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted May 21, 2020 Share As I complete noob I'd say cause either the spokes won't reach the rim or poke through the rim tapeThat is why we have long nipples. As long as one or two threads grip and you can't see the rest the spoke fits! nick_the_wheelbuilder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieV Posted July 30, 2020 Share Question to the wheelbuilders .. I have a Ritchey Vantage 142mm hub which I'm converting back to 135mm, waiting for the conversion axle and caps to arrive but might be another week. But I'm ready to build/lace the wheel now. Wanted to know if the conversion is going to shift the center/dishing? Logic says it should still be centered, and the 135mm will reduce length equally left and right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted July 30, 2020 Share Question to the wheelbuilders .. I have a Ritchey Vantage 142mm hub which I'm converting back to 135mm, waiting for the conversion axle and caps to arrive but might be another week. But I'm ready to build/lace the wheel now. Wanted to know if the conversion is going to shift the center/dishing? Logic says it should still be centered, and the 135mm will reduce length equally left and right?99% sure you're correct, at least I've never had my wheels dished when changing to end caps EddieV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted July 30, 2020 Share To anyone it might concern I've got A Park WAG-3 dish gauge and complete set of spoke keys I'd like to swop for a bearing press (or at least the arms and rod I'll have spacers made up) They were used to build one wheel and never again, pristine condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson Posted August 3, 2020 Share I'm looking for some feedback and/or advice on carbon rims please.I'm gonna need a set of wheels in a couple of months and decided to do my first build.I'm looking at getting the Stans Arch CB7 carbon rims and build them with Hope Pro4 hubs that I already have.Is there someone here that are using these rims that can give me some feedback on them ?How do they handle/perform ? How durable are they ? The wheelset will be used on a Pyga OneTen29. Any other suggestions or advice will be welcome.Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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