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Slowbee

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Was a google search image of a corner draw,  but I think that's the general idea

And on nice pull out drawer runners you can access to back of the drawer vs climbing into the #^$&$%&* corner unit to find something in the back of it!

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The biggest problem with corner units is that people tend to lean on the open doors to access the contents. 

 

Bi-fold doors, meaning the second door hinges on the first, are the biggest culprits because of the extra leverage it offers up. So best solution is to hinge each door onto the carcass by using good quality hinges (very important) Downside is they are expansive for good quality hinges, never mind 2 doors needing them.

 

Second option is to use a rotating carousel to store the goods inside. You sacrifice a bit of space, but save the "leaning on the door" problem 

 

 

 

Was a google search image of a corner draw,  but I think that's the general idea

 

We had one of these recently installed with the new kitchen layout.

 

Works great and no need for a bi-fold door or any other crazy cabinetry.

 

post-10758-0-22871100-1612383215_thumb.jpg

 

post-10758-0-62397900-1612383234_thumb.jpg

 

post-10758-0-54324900-1612383254_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

01776482_0.jpg

 

Also makes items more accessible than a carousel, and seems to utilize the space more efficiently.

 

As a bonus it's "soft close".

 

It's called a Lemans Arena Style II and I see Larson sells them in SA for about R7,800 (a bargain compared to the price here in NZ).

Edited by patches
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Just make sure you use BLUM hinges - our house is c 16 - 17 years old and they still open like brand new.  We have stayed here for 8 years already - I NEVER had to adjust any of the doors with the BLUM hinges in the kitchen nor bathrooms. 

 

The bedroom cupboards have cheapie hinges.  Oh my, they don't close properly any more, they hang skew, they squeak...    :cursing:

 

 

We always specify Blum SoftClosing as standard, and if budget becomes an issue Grass is a decent second option.

 

We specced Blum soft closing hinges, runners and hardware on the recent kitchen reno. Must say I'm very impressed with the quality and build of them.

 

We have an entertainment unit from Citta (an overpriced furniture shop) and that uses Hettich hinges. They're soft close, but there is so much vertical play in them that they are very hard to set. Really lets down the look of the unit as the backs of the doors and face of the carcass have complimentary 45 deg bevels, so any slight deviation in alignment is instantly noticeable.

 

post-10758-0-51250400-1612384038_thumb.png

 

May replace the entertainment unit hinges with Blum at some stage.

Edited by patches
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We had one of these recently installed with the new kitchen layout.

 

Works great and no need for a bi-fold door or any other crazy cabinetry.

 

attachicon.gif20210204_072959.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20210204_072952.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20210204_072948.jpg

 

 

 

01776482_0.jpg

 

Also makes items more accessible than a carousel, and seems to utilize the space more efficiently.

 

As a bonus it's "soft close".

 

It's called a Lemans Arena Style II and I see Larson sells them in SA for about R7,800 (a bargain compared to the price here in NZ).

I've seen these at Leroy Merlin. Even took pics so that we can remember.

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That reminds me of my kitchen hinges on the bloody corner unit ........ no worries .... will do it "tomorrow"

Do it when you get around to it. Fortunately, I’m making and selling them, so I can send you one and you can get to all of those jobs you’ve been putting off...

f618b8e593525a5ff0736dedfbf2abf2.jpg

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Those corner solutions are the answer. However, getting the customer to pay for it is another story altogether

When you start speccing that stuff the price for a kitchen installation basically starts at R200k before adding appliances.

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We specced Blum soft closing hinges, runners and hardware on the recent kitchen reno. Must say I'm very impressed with the quality and build of them.

 

We have an entertainment unit from Citta (an overpriced furniture shop) and that uses Hettich hinges. They're soft close, but there is so much vertical play in them that they are very hard to set. Really lets down the look of the unit as the backs of the doors and face of the carcass have complimentary 45 deg bevels, so any slight deviation in alignment is instantly noticeable.

 

attachicon.gifHettich hinges.PNG

 

May replace the entertainment unit hinges with Blum at some stage.

not the best pics as they were snag / site pics and a few things were fixed up following these pics .... but yes, you really need to use the best you can for a miter door/counter junction.

post-5403-0-27780200-1612425939_thumb.jpg

post-5403-0-77134800-1612425959_thumb.jpg

post-5403-0-58716200-1612425983_thumb.jpg

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Do it when you get around to it. Fortunately, I’m making and selling them, so I can send you one and you can get to all of those jobs you’ve been putting off...

f618b8e593525a5ff0736dedfbf2abf2.jpg

This awesome. How much? How do I order some from you?

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not the best pics as they were snag / site pics and a few things were fixed up following these pics .... but yes, you really need to use the best you can for a miter door/counter junction.

Amazing bathroom that!

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 So what's the real difference between;

1. pharmaceutical grade liquid paraffin (light mineral oil)

2. expensive stuff people try and bespoke sell you as chopping block oil

3. and food grade mineral oil

Are they all the same with different marketing?

They are all similar with some differences.

1. liquid paraffin is the same as the basic mineral oil available in supermarkets everywhere but SA. It works perfectly for cutting boards.

2. The expensive stuff like Howards butcher block oil or butcher block conditioner are the same mineral oil mixed with drying waxes, so kinda like 2-in-1 shampoo.

3. Food grade mineral oil I havent seen available locally, I believe though that its exactly the same as liquid paraffin which is locally sold as a laxative.

 

Normally the recommendation is to soak in mineral oil and wipe off the excess then to finish and buff with a mixture of 50/50 mineral oil and bees wax. The waxing step is optional and gives a slightly matt finish on the boards.

 

I have used all combinations of liquid paraffin, Howards butcher block oil and Howards butcher block conditioner. They pretty much give the same end result so using liquid paraffin is the cheapest and most accessible option.

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We had one of these recently installed with the new kitchen layout.

 

Works great and no need for a bi-fold door or any other crazy cabinetry.

 

attachicon.gif20210204_072959.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20210204_072952.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20210204_072948.jpg

 

 

 

01776482_0.jpg

 

Also makes items more accessible than a carousel, and seems to utilize the space more efficiently.

 

As a bonus it's "soft close".

 

It's called a Lemans Arena Style II and I see Larson sells them in SA for about R7,800 (a bargain compared to the price here in NZ).

Hmmm I wonder if I could come up with a solution like that I could make myself. Its a little expensive but I like the idea.

 

Im sure if I picked Carrera's brain that he would have all kinds of great ideas :)

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Hmmm I wonder if I could come up with a solution like that I could make myself. Its a little expensive but I like the idea.

 

Im sure if I picked Carrera's brain that he would have all kinds of great ideas :)

 

I'm sure it could be replicated. It's a clever design, but not rocket-science and considering the price one is definitely paying for name or something and not some super intricate system.

 

It's basically just an arm that allows the trays to travel in an S motion. I guess not that dissimilar to certain MTB linkages.

 

 

EDIT: my bad, I over simplified it, and the linkage design is a little more custom than I thought

Edited by patches
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I'm sure it could be replicated. It's a clever design, but not rocket-science and considering the price one is definitely paying for name or something and not some super intricate system.

 

It's basically just an arm that allows the trays to travel in an S motion. I guess not that dissimilar to certain MTB linkages.

 

The most complex part is the twist-into-place system they have which allows the removal of trays without major disassembly.

 

If I were to replicate/reverse engineer it, I would break it down into these basic components

 

Uprights (x2)

  • telescopic (or cut to length) 25mm OD pipe with
  • positioning/lock holes drilled in for tray height adjustability and
  • flay plates top and bottom to fasten on inside of cabinet.

Tray Arms (x2)

  • S-shaped 10x20mm rectangular tube, bent into shape

Trays (x2)

  • Odd shape, but could be cut out of MDF/melamine with jigsaw

Fittings

  • A number of plastic fittings which one could 3D print.

If you get a chance to look at one close up you will get most of the idea within 5min. Simple, out of the box thinking, but it works.

looking at it from a production point of view its not hard.. and R7.5K allows lots of room to play with.

biggest issue would be rigidity and lateral play. would use bearings and turned shafts to compensate.

 

tops I would either lasercut out of 3mm and powder-coat and add some stiffeners underneath or CNC on a router out of melamine and clad the edges.

 

mounting brackets I would lasercut an weld with plastic bearing holders adding in room for adjustment. the arm is bent up angle for stiffness,  going to a bearing-ed mounting plate for the trays..

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