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Posted

It's 1:10 scale. Busy working on dust collection and electrical layouts over that - I think the current layout is going to minimize pipe length for the DC - less than 4 feet of pipe to the 3 most used sanders, then another 10 feet to the drum sander. Only one that is far is the mitre saw, but will lay pipe to it in any case and have another blast gate at that end for a normal vacuum cleaner pipe, to clean up the workbenches :)

 

There'l be 1 foot of flex connecting the DC to the system, then no flex pipe at the three sanders (belt sander, disk sander, spindle sander) Some 2 foot of flex pipe at the drum sander, just for mobility, and another 2 foot at the sliding mitre saw to allow for movement there.

 

I'm planning on putting a couple of the benches on castors - the one with the two sanders on (large belt and disc sander combo and spindle sander, bottom left) as well as the mitre saw bench, bottom right, and then maybe the short section top right hand corner. It has to be cut due to the size of the postform tops available, so may as well make it mobile. Was thinking of maybe making it my paint and spray equipment storage, then if I need to spray I just run it around like a cart. It's about 120cm long.

 

As far as electrickery is concerned, I have several hundred feet of dual channel trunking that my dad gave me (from an old worksite where they threw out a couple of TONS of this stuff) So will be wall mounting that all the way around the shop. Installing a new plug point anywhere will take 5 minutes if needed.

 

My router table is already on wheels and will fit under one of the benches. I'm thinking of making some more of those size roll-arounds to store all the other tools in, with a 18mm lampine top so that I can use it for extra surface if needed. Make them so they fit flush under the counters and sit on lockable castors.

 

Being in the air moving industry I can only say use the absolute minimum of flexible ducting, it adds a massive amount of system pressure and turbulence.

If you absolutely must then give me a shout, I may have a few off-cuts of some good stainless steel flex which is very finely ribbed and cuts the losses down massively.

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Posted

No, with wheels, everything, always, because flexibility trumps everything else. Just get castors you can lock.

I know, but he wanted it to be static.

 

Most my stuff rolls around, its an absolute treat especially in a garage environment.

Posted

Being in the air moving industry I can only say use the absolute minimum of flexible ducting, it adds a massive amount of system pressure and turbulence.

If you absolutely must then give me a shout, I may have a few off-cuts of some good stainless steel flex which is very finely ribbed and cuts the losses down massively.

 

I'm only running 4 inch pipe  :ph34r: 90% of it will be S&D (sewer and drain) pipe, then only the last short sections will be flex, and only where movement is needed.

Posted

I'm only running 4 inch pipe  :ph34r: 90% of it will be S&D (sewer and drain) pipe, then only the last short sections will be flex, and only where movement is needed.

Okay, best will be to try and use some vacuum cleaner flex pipe then.

Sounds like a mean workshop, seriously jealous!!!

Posted

I'm only running 4 inch pipe  :ph34r: 90% of it will be S&D (sewer and drain) pipe, then only the last short sections will be flex, and only where movement is needed.

where exactly in that planning model are your bikes and bike repair stand being kept?

Posted

where exactly in that planning model are your bikes and bike repair stand being kept?

 

:D   Priorities, priorities!

 

But hopefully next door - out of the dust!

 

But I was wondering the other day - If I can only choose woodworking or cycling - which one will it be...

 

Still don't know.  Luckily I don't have to choose.  My knees are recovering very well so I am managing 3 to 4 hours a week on the bike now - thus less time in the garage...

Posted

:D   Priorities, priorities!

 

But hopefully next door - out of the dust!

 

But I was wondering the other day - If I can only choose woodworking or cycling - which one will it be...

 

Still don't know.  Luckily I don't have to choose.  My knees are recovering very well so I am managing 3 to 4 hours a week on the bike now - thus less time in the garage...

If I had the space for a large workshop, and the money to stock it with the tools I want, then I'm afraid I'd have to say the woodwork would win. It's a bloody close race, though. 

Posted

I guess some people seem to think they are important and entitled...

 

 

If I had the space for a large workshop, and the money to stock it with the tools I want, then I'm afraid I'd have to say the woodwork would win. It's a bloody close race, though. 

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Posted

where exactly in that planning model are your bikes and bike repair stand being kept?

 

Nowhere near the workshop. There's a big concrete 'garden' shed that will store the family's bikes, as well as a shovel and (garden) fork or two. 

 

The more I think about what we got, the luckier I feel. We were getting rather despondent, as we had signed an offer to purchase another place, but got no offer on our place. A couple of days after that offer expired, we got an offer on our place, and two days later found this one. It's pretty damn close to perfect, ticks 99% of the boxes.

Posted

Nowhere near the workshop. There's a big concrete 'garden' shed that will store the family's bikes, as well as a shovel and (garden) fork or two. 

 

The more I think about what we got, the luckier I feel. We were getting rather despondent, as we had signed an offer to purchase another place, but got no offer on our place. A couple of days after that offer expired, we got an offer on our place, and two days later found this one. It's pretty damn close to perfect, ticks 99% of the boxes.

Awesome, and congrats again .... is the shovel to bury anyone that touches your bike  :ph34r:  :whistling:

Posted

Hope this helps another Hubber in future...

 

Woodock Marine Sealer 50...for some reason when I use it as specified it always retains a slight tacky feel to it even weeks after resting the piece. And make no mistake, this place gets plenty hot.

 

So bumped into mate that asked about the boat project and I cried a bucket about the expensive Woodock that just doesn't seem to cure. So he informs me he just read two days prior that when it does that to either wack it with a hair dryer on hot (nope, me no have one, missus obviously hiding hers) or to rub it down with some wax.

 

So i whipped out the antique wax, applied some, left if for about 10 minutes, went back with a rag, buffed it off and low and behold, magic!! No more tacky.

Posted

Hope this helps another Hubber in future...

 

Woodock Marine Sealer 50...for some reason when I use it as specified it always retains a slight tacky feel to it even weeks after resting the piece. And make no mistake, this place gets plenty hot.

 

So bumped into mate that asked about the boat project and I cried a bucket about the expensive Woodock that just doesn't seem to cure. So he informs me he just read two days prior that when it does that to either wack it with a hair dryer on hot (nope, me no have one, missus obviously hiding hers) or to rub it down with some wax.

 

So i whipped out the antique wax, applied some, left if for about 10 minutes, went back with a rag, buffed it off and low and behold, magic!! No more tacky.

I will try to remember that, although I havent experienced that yet with woodoc marine. 

Posted (edited)

Hope this helps another Hubber in future...

 

Woodock Marine Sealer 50...for some reason when I use it as specified it always retains a slight tacky feel to it even weeks after resting the piece. And make no mistake, this place gets plenty hot.

 

So bumped into mate that asked about the boat project and I cried a bucket about the expensive Woodock that just doesn't seem to cure. So he informs me he just read two days prior that when it does that to either wack it with a hair dryer on hot (nope, me no have one, missus obviously hiding hers) or to rub it down with some wax.

 

So i whipped out the antique wax, applied some, left if for about 10 minutes, went back with a rag, buffed it off and low and behold, magic!! No more tacky.

Some acrylics, and I'm pretty sure there is a lot of it in the varnish, will not cure 100% in the presence of oxygen, and always leave a very thin sticky layer on top. That is great if you put another layer over, because then they will stick together well. It may be that the wax just sealed it for long enough to let it cure 100 in the absence of oxygen. That stickyness is called the oxygen inhibition layer. 

 

Edit: I think that may be the reason, but I don't know what exactly is in the Woodoc. 

Edited by DJR

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