Post your woodwork here

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Wood is unfortunately crazy expensive.

Your best option then would be to find some old pallets (untreated), If you want that reclaimed look, leave them outside exposed to the elements.

 

Cedar wood makes for nice cladding, but will cost you quite a bit. You can have the planks deep cut into thinner pieces to stretch your material. You don't need 25mm planks for wall cladding.

 

That was my thinking too, a 8 to10mm plank should be more than good enough as it is only cosmetic. Just need to find somebody that can rip a 20mm thick plank in half and i should be good to go.......

[Tuxstir]

Hi guys, I am looking at cladding a lounge wall in wood and need advise on wood selection, method to hang, etc.

So far I have not looked at wood selection but to hang it I was looking at using a Kreg pocket hole jig or their decking jig to hide the screws at least. I will secure french cleats against the wall so the cladding can be removeable to make installation of the hidden screws easier and also replacement of individual boards if needed.

With regards to wood selection, there is a strong possibility that the wall will be used to hang photo frames, etc off of so it should preferably be a wood where screw holes can be hidden easily using some wood filler, etc.

 

Then obviously how to finish it off, oil, varnish, raw?

Should the boards be flush against each other or have a little gap of say 5-10mm between each board with the wall being able to be seen behind it?

 

Any advise would be appreciated.

there is also something like this

 

Builders usually used as wooden ceiling boards

 

comes with tongue and groove on the edges, 

as for finish i would give it a stain and seal, 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

what about getting sheets of ply, with the finish that you prefer, and getting Builders / Buco / whatever to rip em to 100mm widths? Far less hassle than ripping apart pallets and you get the added benefit of not having to plane all the wood straight. 

 

Can get oak, normal pine, beech, sapele, redwood, etc.

 

Even at 4mm it's strong stuff, and will more than stand up to a picture frame. 

 

If you want even more strength, back it with full sheets of normal 12mm shutterply and then attach the strips to that. 

Edited July 25, 2018 by Cptmayhem

[Adr!@n]

what about getting sheets of ply, with the finish that you prefer, and getting Builders / Buco / whatever to rip em to 100mm widths? Far less hassle than ripping apart pallets and you get the added benefit of not having to plane all the wood straight. 

 

In case anyone was wondering, you can buy pallet wood that has either not been used to make pallets or that has already been disassembled from pallet form. Works out cheap, but obviously needs work.

 

https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-construction-materials/eastern-pretoria/pallet-wood-for-sale/1002584183760910010355909

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

In case anyone was wondering, you can buy pallet wood that has either not been used to make pallets or that has already been disassembled from pallet form. Works out cheap, but obviously needs work.

 

https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-construction-materials/eastern-pretoria/pallet-wood-for-sale/1002584183760910010355909

That's a bloody good price. 

 

Works out at almost double the linear metres as a sheet of ply, for less than the price of a sheet of 12mm shutter. 

[stefmeister]

what about getting sheets of ply, with the finish that you prefer, and getting Builders / Buco / whatever to rip em to 100mm widths? Far less hassle than ripping apart pallets and you get the added benefit of not having to plane all the wood straight. 

 

Can get oak, normal pine, beech, sapele, redwood, etc.

 

Even at 4mm it's strong stuff, and will more than stand up to a picture frame. 

 

If you want even more strength, back it with full sheets of normal 12mm shutterply and then attach the strips to that. 

The way the veneer is cut won't give you the same grain effect as using planks would.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

The way the veneer is cut won't give you the same grain effect as using planks would.

Ja, cos it's roll-cut. Forgot about that. 

[Hairy]

 

Ok ... this is what we did with our previous office space....these pics are around 8 years old now.

 

Essentially long lengths of SAP generally used for scaffolding planks, screw/bolt fixed to the wall with the fixings plugged and then setting the planks at various depths and angles to create shelves.

[Hairy]

Joints were a bit raggedy ... but easy enough to sort out ... which we did later on.

[Plentipotential]

Hi guys, I am looking at cladding a lounge wall in wood and need advise on wood selection, method to hang, etc.

So far I have not looked at wood selection but to hang it I was looking at using a Kreg pocket hole jig or their decking jig to hide the screws at least. I will secure french cleats against the wall so the cladding can be removeable to make installation of the hidden screws easier and also replacement of individual boards if needed.

With regards to wood selection, there is a strong possibility that the wall will be used to hang photo frames, etc off of so it should preferably be a wood where screw holes can be hidden easily using some wood filler, etc.

 

Then obviously how to finish it off, oil, varnish, raw?

Should the boards be flush against each other or have a little gap of say 5-10mm between each board with the wall being able to be seen behind it?

 

Any advise would be appreciated.

 

Have you thought about floor laminate? Secure with some adhesive.

[Ed-Zulu]

Ok ... this is what we did with our previous office space....these pics are around 8 years old now.

 

Essentially long lengths of SAP generally used for scaffolding planks, screw/bolt fixed to the wall with the fixings plugged and then setting the planks at various depths and angles to create shelves.

Very nicely done.

 

The lighting and general feel of a Spanish Bordello

[Hairy]

Very nicely done.

 

The lighting and general feel of a Spanish Bordello

awesome .... effect achieved ... have you seen how I dress for work 

Edited July 25, 2018 by Hairy

[Hairy]

Have you thought about floor laminate? Secure with some adhesive.

Can work, just need to create a solid edge border to prevent one seeing the sides of the boarding. The edge trims may well serve well for this.

[Ed-Zulu]

Can work, just need to create a solid edge border to prevent one seeing the sides of the boarding. The edge trims may well serve well for this.

I've seen that being done incorrectly; sticking it directly to the wall

 

It needs a level and solid backing (if the wall is not), the boards are quite flimsy actually. Edge trimming a must!

[Hairy]

I've seen that being done incorrectly; sticking it directly to the wall

 

It needs a level and solid backing (if the wall is not), the boards are quite flimsy actually. Edge trimming a must!

So then mount a sacrificial backing board of sorts to the wall to get it nice and true.

 

Depending on what type of flooring boards you are using .... if clip lock type of system you are basically going to have to bond it to the back board, if it is a T&G system you can possibly also pin it to the backing board withing the tongue ... but this is all pending what flooring you managed to find.

[Ed-Zulu]

So then mount a sacrificial backing board of sorts to the wall to get it nice and true.

 

Depending on what type of flooring boards you are using .... if clip lock type of system you are basically going to have to bond it to the back board, if it is a T&G system you can possibly also pin it to the backing board withing the tongue ... but this is all pending what flooring you managed to find.

Edzachery!