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Posted

The problem with using plywood or blockboard is the extra costs over melamine. Its a tough sell to a customer. It requires extra labour as well as the need to paint it

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Posted

The plywood and blockboard that is available locally is useless for making cabinets both have voids or gaps between the layers and the ply is not of a uniform thickness. Applying a finish is also costly and time consuming. The ply that is usable is very scarce and is ridiculously priced.

I keep cabinets off the floor and seal all inside corners with clear silicon when near water sources.

 

Having said that I have made amazing cupboards with ply but a lot of time and labour and extra cost of paint or sealer.

Posted (edited)

My attempt at removing rust by electrolysis - so far so good!

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PLEASE if you are going to try this DO NOT use stainless steel as anodes - serious noxious gasses and poisonous residue. I changed to mild steel anodes - it works better too.

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Edited by porqui
Posted

Nothing wrong with ply per se, the quality of the locally available ply is not great. As with hardwood, if you're willing to pay, you can get some really nice ply. Here I'm using standard BC grade 16mm.

I am looking for a ply that has similar colouring and grain to yellowood - any ideas?

Posted (edited)

Guys

 

My mid-year bonus is coming up, and I was thinking that it is time for a power planer/jointer in my shed.  But buying new now is ridiculous.  I phoned CMC yesterday, and they are not even importing the cheaper stuff anymore. They now only supply for the industrial crowd.

 

Or if you have won a lottery to be able to afford a Robland.

 

So, if any of you know where to find a decent second-hand machine, let me know pretty please. I saw an advert posted last year for a Jet machine for R10k somewhere in Pretoria. That same machine now goes new for over R30k.  :eek:

Edited by Moridin
Posted (edited)

Some advice please....

 

I have been offered a Black and Decker 800W router with all the attachments as well as a hard plastic case. Router was purchased around 2007 but has less than 10 hours run time on it and it's in really good nick (A work colleague is selling and I trust him). It takes 1/4" bits.

 

He's asking R400. I think it's a good buy. I realise that it's not Festool or Makita but for an apprentice carpenter like myself it looks like a good starting point.

 

Any comments?

Edited by Grebel
Posted

Some advice please....

 

I have been offered a Black and Decker 800W router with all the attachments as well as a hard plastic case. Router was purchased around 2007 but has less than 10 hours run time on it and it's in really good nick (A work colleague is selling and I trust him). It takes 1/4" bits.

 

He's asking R400. I think it's a good buy. I realise that it's not Festool or Makita but for an apprentice carpenter like myself it looks like a good starting point.

 

Any comments?

 

At R400 it's a good buy. Not much that can go wrong with routers just don't strain it and it should serve you well.

Posted

Some advice please....

 

I have been offered a Black and Decker 800W router with all the attachments as well as a hard plastic case. Router was purchased around 2007 but has less than 10 hours run time on it and it's in really good nick (A work colleague is selling and I trust him). It takes 1/4" bits.

 

He's asking R400. I think it's a good buy. I realise that it's not Festool or Makita but for an apprentice carpenter like myself it looks like a good starting point.

 

Any comments?

Yip, its worth the money

Posted

Some advice please....

 

I have been offered a Black and Decker 800W router with all the attachments as well as a hard plastic case. Router was purchased around 2007 but has less than 10 hours run time on it and it's in really good nick (A work colleague is selling and I trust him). It takes 1/4" bits.

 

He's asking R400. I think it's a good buy. I realise that it's not Festool or Makita but for an apprentice carpenter like myself it looks like a good starting point.

 

Any comments?

 

If its in the plastic case it would indicate its from their higher end range of tools, as whats been said already, buy it.

Posted

My attempt at removing rust by electrolysis - so far so good!

.

.

PLEASE if you are going to try this DO NOT use stainless steel as anodes - serious noxious gasses and poisonous residue. I changed to mild steel anodes - it works better too.

That looks quite successful

Posted

I found this in my workshop the other day. It was given to my by my Grandfather many years ago.I have never ever used it, an electric planer works so much better. To think that the artisans of years gone by produced such beautiful woodwork with such basic tools.

P.S. My grandfather is 96 years old and he still spends every morning in his workshop doing woodwork. It is standing on a table that he made.

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It does things an electric planer can never dream of, or a sander for that matter. It's not for the same work. A hand plane will smooth out the tiniest discrepancies, it tidies up dovetails joints, is perfect for face frames .... O! You have no idea what a beautiful instrument it is to use. Have a look at some Doucette and Wolf (Wolfe?) videos on Youtube and you'll be blown away by a handplane's versatility.

Posted

Some pics of a kitchen I made completely from wbp (water & boil-proof) plywood ... and a good thing, because I did the scullery first. A month or two later, for the second part of the install, I found the washing machine had been pissing all over the floor and nobody noticed. It would've been a complete redo with chipboard.

 

On the minus side, screws split the ply so every joint has to be routed. Drawers, backs, everything. And ... painting, painting, painting. 1 coat primer, 1 coat undercoat, 2 or 3 of topcoat, inside and out. This was all done by hand and probably took the better part of a month. Maybe longer. 

 

Unfortunately, well under R100 000. It was for a friend whose builder turned out to be a cocaine addict. He schnarfed all her money and left her with a half-built house. 

 

 

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