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Slowbee

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Good job. I'm not fond on tenon/mortises.

What wood is that, looks like meranti or some eucalyptus?

 

Also, how are you doing the leg vise? Pin board or criss cross mechanism?

 

Tx Stefmeister!

 

It is African Rosewood - last thick left-overs from my pool table build.

 

I am planning a "pressure bar" / pinless vice:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=338U49EtWso

 

If that does not work, I will get a criss-cross.

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PS:  How will you do the height adjustment?  Check if your router have a lug then you can use a threaded rod to make height adjustment from above the table.

 

I've read that people also use a scissor-jack to control the height of your router if your router does not have the lug to use a threaded rod.

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Tx Stefmeister!

 

It is African Rosewood - last thick left-overs from my pool table build.

 

I am planning a "pressure bar" / pinless vice:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=338U49EtWso

 

If that does not work, I will get a criss-cross.

That’s some luxury level workbench there.

 

That’s a nice design. I tried something similar with 30 mm shaft and linear bearings, but there was too much racking, or lack of precision to make it work.

Ended up doing the crisscross mechanism. First attempt used 6 or 8 mm steel, finally ended up beafing it up to 12mm which is now solid as wilton.

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Nicely done Amberdrake!

 

Maybe consider installing a No Volt Release switch for safety reasons.  See if you can install it such that you can switch it off with your leg / knee should it be necessary.

 

https://www.toolcraft.co.za/products/kjd18-switch?variant=213342388248

 

 

PS:  How will you do the height adjustment?  Check if your router have a lug then you can use a threaded rod to make height adjustment from above the table.

Ill check that would be useful, The feet screw out as we welded nuts inside the leg.

Unforunately the welding failed as it was done from outside and the cleaning removed all the weld strenght.

so the feet came off with me pushing on table lightly. Fortunately before I used the table.

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That’s some luxury level workbench there.

 

That’s a nice design. I tried something similar with 30 mm shaft and linear bearings, but there was too much racking, or lack of precision to make it work.

Ended up doing the crisscross mechanism. First attempt used 6 or 8 mm steel, finally ended up beafing it up to 12mm which is now solid as wilton.

 

Jip, most people will probably say not to use such nice wood for a workbench, but as The Wood Whisperer once said, he wants his cabinets etc in his workshop to look nice as well, it must be a joy just to "be" there.  So for me that applies to the workbench, it must be really nice to look at as well.

 

Luckily I got the Rosewood quite cheap, think it was less than R 9 000 per cube.  It was an amateur that cut the wood and it came in these odd sizes so nobody wanted it.  And I don't have any projects left for the thicker pieces, so I decided to build the bench base from the last pieces.

 

Please post a pic or two of your bench and crisscross?

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So havnt been doing much woodwork yet, but here is a bit.

Built a raiser for my screenattachicon.gifBox1.jpgattachicon.gifbox2.jpgattachicon.gifScreen Raise.jpg

 

I also made router attachment so we can turn it into a router table using sheet of Alu. attachicon.gifRouter Attachment.jpg

 

3d Printed a center line tool and sanding block for tiny corners.attachicon.gifSanding Block.jpgattachicon.gifCentre tool.jpg

I like that center tool, it loos really cool. Did you get the stl from thingiverse?

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I have taken some leave last week and worked a bit on a new workbench that I am building.   It will be a split top Roubo.

 

I have laminated, sized and squared all the legs and stretchers and completed all the mortices.  I have started on the tenons as well.  The first one came out pretty well (last time I did a mortice and tenon joit was >20 years ago at school - and then we had a slot morticer and tenoning machine).  Now to finish the other tenons and then I can hopefully assemble the base.

 

 

Hand planing the legs - nothing as satisfying as a sharp plane going  grrrrrttttsss through the wood!

 

attachicon.gifWB 1.jpg

 

 

Cabinet scraper to finish the surface after the plane - look at those fine shavings!  Nice!

 

attachicon.gifWB 2.jpg

attachicon.gifWB 3.jpg

 

 

Mortices were done with an up-cut spiral bit to 60 mm deep, then by hand to c 90 mm deep.

 

attachicon.gifWB 4.jpg

 

 

 

Tenons are being rough sized on the table saw, then the router table and fine tuned by hand.

 

attachicon.gifWb 5.jpg

attachicon.gifWB 6.jpg

attachicon.gifWB 7.jpg

attachicon.gifWB 8.jpg

Some day I will get my joints as neat as those...

Im always amazed at your attention to detail.

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I like that center tool, it loos really cool. Did you get the stl from thingiverse?

Yes thats where i found it!

And yes I know about the tool starting the thread and its part of reason for post :)

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Jip, most people will probably say not to use such nice wood for a workbench, but as The Wood Whisperer once said, he wants his cabinets etc in his workshop to look nice as well, it must be a joy just to "be" there. So for me that applies to the workbench, it must be really nice to look at as well.

 

Luckily I got the Rosewood quite cheap, think it was less than R 9 000 per cube. It was an amateur that cut the wood and it came in these odd sizes so nobody wanted it. And I don't have any projects left for the thicker pieces, so I decided to build the bench base from the last pieces.

 

Please post a pic or two of your bench and crisscross?

Yeah, I fully agree. If you’re going to spend enough time there do it proper and make it nice.

 

I also scored a bargain on some Beech for my bench, think it was also around that price per cube. Although some pieces were seriously bowed and twisted.

 

Excuse the mess, but it is a workbench after all that gets used and sometimes abused.

916490ea92c68e0049a9bd5703522574.jpg

The criss cross arms, at its widest it’s about 50 mm, and about 12 mm thick. I assembled it and never bothered to take it apart to blue the steel and make it pretty.

6617d3bcffe72e4fe0bbb3a3d6c2cf29.jpg

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Yeah, I fully agree. If you’re going to spend enough time there do it proper and make it nice.

 

I also scored a bargain on some Beech for my bench, think it was also around that price per cube. Although some pieces were seriously bowed and twisted.

 

Excuse the mess, but it is a workbench after all that gets used and sometimes abused.

 

The criss cross arms, at its widest it’s about 50 mm, and about 12 mm thick. I assembled it and never bothered to take it apart to blue the steel and make it pretty.

 

Tx Stefmeister!

 

Very nice bench!  Single top Roubo?  What is the size?  How high?

 

Do you do lots of hand tools work?

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Tx Stefmeister!

 

Very nice bench!  Single top Roubo?  What is the size?  How high?

 

Do you do lots of hand tools work?

 

Thanks. Yes, it's a single top. Initially I planned on a split top, but wasn't convinced yet. When I glued up the top I accidentally had one extra piece on the one half which messed up the perfect half-half split. My ocd wouldn't be able live with it, and being so heavy, ripping that piece off was not an option. So my decision was made by my own lack of concentration. I also prefer my chisels not to fall through any gaps. 

 

Dimension are 2000 (l) x 880 (h) x 650 (w) mm. I'm not very tall. 

 

I would say I'm more of a 'hybrid woodworker'. I like using a combination of power tools and hand tools for joinery. Usually most of the cuts are made with machines, and then finished to final fit with hand tools. I find planing table tops by hand very therapeutic, and reduces the amount of sanding afterwards - so for me it's more of a fit for purpose rather than the romantisizing the old tradition of working with hand tools.

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I'm looking to stain pine wood a darker colour. I've built a coffee table and I want to keep the grain pattern of the pine, just darker. I used grip seal but I do not like the results it gave me, you have to apply it extremely evenly and the resulting piece has a shiny finish. With the grip seal any overlapping sections show up in the finished product. 

 

What brand or type of stain do you prefer and what is the best method to apply it? Do you prepare the wood in a specific way to accept the stain?

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