Post your woodwork here

[BigDL]

10 hours ago, patches said:

 

 

If you go by every YouTube Celebrity making river tables then Total Boat is apparently the only epoxy/resin to use, hahaha

Can't get Total Boat in NZ, but as the boat building industry here is pretty big, West Systems stuff is available. Not cheap though.

As for which types of epoxy, I have no clue. I believe the slower it cures the better the finish and less chance of bubbles, but that's based on youtube knowledge.

There are distinctions by depth of fill, so I bought a 35-85 mm epoxy and a 5-35 mm epoxy mix. Because my slab is 110mm, I did three pours in the holes that went right through it, two of the deeper fill and one of the shallower fill. There was a trick to blocking the holes at the bottom. I tried two methods, one where I just used tape and the other which involved boards with tape and silicone sealant screwed into the base. The latter was successful and the tape made a mess and all the epoxy drained out.

[Capricorn]

11 hours ago, patches said:

 

 

If you go by every YouTube Celebrity making river tables then Total Boat is apparently the only epoxy/resin to use, hahaha

Can't get Total Boat in NZ, but as the boat building industry here is pretty big, West Systems stuff is available. Not cheap though.

As for which types of epoxy, I have no clue. I believe the slower it cures the better the finish and less chance of bubbles, but that's based on youtube knowledge.

west systems available here too it seems. Thanks for making me check

 

https://seaportsupply.co.za/product/west-system-epoxy-kit-slow-cure/

 

DIY Geek also has epoxy supplies:
https://www.diygeek.co.za/product-category/wood-and-resin/epoxy-systems-online-south-africa/

 

@Eddy Gordo:  word to the wise (off youtube ofc): you goto school with the first one 

Edited September 30, 2022 by Capricorn

[Eddy Gordo]

I have already checked google in and out for the best possible coating for what I want to do. 

First choice and I am gonna be doing it is Shou Sugi Ban.

Now the thing is I want to seal it even though Shou Sugi Ban should be effective enough. Google says epoxy floor sealer as it will soak into the wood and harden. I am thinking probably just use Marine Varnish over it instead.

[Ed-Zulu]

13 hours ago, patches said:

 

 

If you go by every YouTube Celebrity making river tables then Total Boat is apparently the only epoxy/resin to use, hahaha

Can't get Total Boat in NZ, but as the boat building industry here is pretty big, West Systems stuff is available. Not cheap though.

As for which types of epoxy, I have no clue. I believe the slower it cures the better the finish and less chance of bubbles, but that's based on youtube knowledge.

Epoxy resin cure time is related to temperature mostly, in the application of covering/protecting a table surface or slab like BigDL, you can apply some form of direct heat to the surface to pop the bubbles, this is due to the application being non-structural. Heat destroys the epoxy structural strengths. When building boats in stich and glue, the copper wire bindings are heated to extract them from the epoxy, such a cool process, you should build a boat in stich and glue, tons of woodworking fun!

Another thing about epoxy cure times are that when it takes too long it sometimes won't harden if mix ratios were slightly off or mixing was inconsistent and the chemical bond doesn't take place.

Epoxy resins are also heavily affected by UV and will breakdown when exposed over time, on the coast one of the best ways to protect an epoxy coating from UV and elements in general is to cover the cured surface with 2K clear/colour tint and then polish to the required shine.

[DJR]

AMT Composites in Cape Town is the place to get both resin and advice. They know their stuff.

buy epoxy resin cape town - Search (bing.com)

[i24]

2 hours ago, DJR said:

AMT Composites in Cape Town is the place to get both resin and advice. They know their stuff.

buy epoxy resin cape town - Search (bing.com)

If you are in the Southern Suburbs, I have had good service in the past from Aerontec:

https://www.aerontec.co.za/

If you buying resin, local suppliers' "in house" brands are likely to be cheaper than international brand names.

[patches]

Not woodwork per se, but woodwork related...

Yesterday I purchased a Festool vac accessory kit that was on clearance.

Although I run a Makita vac, I wanted some of the benefits of the Festool hose (additional length and snag resistant "skin"). The accessory kit and Systainer were a bonus.

But no worries, 20min with some verniers, the hoses (old and new) and 20min on Fusion360. Then about 8hrs on the 3D printer and tadaah! A Festool-to-Makita hose adapter.

 

 

As for the Systainer... that has been earmarked for the nail guns. Need to design an insert, but it should be roomy enough

 

Edited October 2, 2022 by patches

[Rich Stan]

I have inherited all the tools from my dad's workshop, which i have had in storage for the last year or so and planning on getting them out and setting up my own workshop at home in the next week or so.

 

I learnt a lot from him, but wondering if there are any wood work classes in the Joburg area? Specifically looking for some guidance on the lathe and 3d router if possible, plus any other trick and tips to make sure I can create some nice outputs while keeping all my fingers

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

34 minutes ago, Rich Stan said:

I have inherited all the tools from my dad's workshop, which i have had in storage for the last year or so and planning on getting them out and setting up my own workshop at home in the next week or so.

 

I learnt a lot from him, but wondering if there are any wood work classes in the Joburg area? Specifically looking for some guidance on the lathe and 3d router if possible, plus any other trick and tips to make sure I can create some nice outputs while keeping all my fingers

@carrera4s is very active in the community in Pretoria, perhaps he can assist.

[patches]

A few YouTube videos convinced me I need a block plane. A few more convinced me I need a low angle one. But I didn't stop watching there and now I'm convinced I need a Lie-Nielsen 😅

Truthful-jest aside, can anyone recommend a decent quality, hand-tool novice friendly, low angle block plane that won't require a complete overhaul to get decent results from?

Options I've available in NZ range from about R1200-odd for a "house brand" or basic Stanley to R5800-odd for some space age looking Veritas.

Here's what I've been looking at, in ascending order of price:

https://www.placemakers.co.nz/online/tools/hand-tools/files-planers/hand-planes-surforms/block-plane-60-12-150mm-1-12-060/p/4880258

(this Stanley doesn't look like the low angle version, but the description claims 13 degrees)

https://www.carbatec.co.nz/product/15113-carbatec-block-plane-13-low-angle

https://nzsafetyblackwoods.co.nz/en/stanley-black-decker-low-angle-block-plane-60-1-2-35-x-160mm-each--02943183

(not sure if this is the same Stanley as above, based on model numbering, but looks like it's actually low angle)

https://www.timbecon.com.au/melbourne-tool-company-low-angle-block-plane

https://www.lie-nielsen.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=844&search=block+plane

https://www.carbatec.co.nz/product/38192-veritas-block-plane-low-angle-pmv-11

https://www.carbatec.co.nz/product/25355-veritas-block-plane-dx60

 

I'm semi-tempted by the Lie-Nielsen as that seems to get the best reviews. Although it's a tool well beyond my capabilities, it's the buy-once-cry-once option.

Edited October 3, 2022 by patches

[Ed-Zulu]

On 10/3/2022 at 10:35 PM, patches said:

A few YouTube videos convinced me I need a block plane. A few more convinced me I need a low angle one. But I didn't stop watching there and now I'm convinced I need a Lie-Nielsen 😅

Truthful-jest aside, can anyone recommend a decent quality, hand-tool novice friendly, low angle block plane that won't require a complete overhaul to get decent results from?

Options I've available in NZ range from about R1200-odd for a "house brand" or basic Stanley to R5800-odd for some space age looking Veritas.

Here's what I've been looking at, in ascending order of price:

https://www.placemakers.co.nz/online/tools/hand-tools/files-planers/hand-planes-surforms/block-plane-60-12-150mm-1-12-060/p/4880258

(this Stanley doesn't look like the low angle version, but the description claims 13 degrees)

https://www.carbatec.co.nz/product/15113-carbatec-block-plane-13-low-angle

https://nzsafetyblackwoods.co.nz/en/stanley-black-decker-low-angle-block-plane-60-1-2-35-x-160mm-each--02943183

(not sure if this is the same Stanley as above, based on model numbering, but looks like it's actually low angle)

https://www.timbecon.com.au/melbourne-tool-company-low-angle-block-plane

https://www.lie-nielsen.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=844&search=block+plane

https://www.carbatec.co.nz/product/38192-veritas-block-plane-low-angle-pmv-11

https://www.carbatec.co.nz/product/25355-veritas-block-plane-dx60

 

I'm semi-tempted by the Lie-Nielsen as that seems to get the best reviews. Although it's a tool well beyond my capabilities, it's the buy-once-cry-once option.

Hi Patches, I have a collection of Stanley blokcplanes, they all work really well when sharp. I really only need one, but I can't walk past old blockplanes and spoke shaves.

The Stanley in link 1 is the one I use often, chews plywood and hardwoods like a champ, great on end grain and can turn square into round in no time. I think application is key, so the decision is to a degree also personal preference?

[geomark]

On 9/30/2022 at 9:31 AM, BigDL said:

There are distinctions by depth of fill, so I bought a 35-85 mm epoxy and a 5-35 mm epoxy mix. Because my slab is 110mm, I did three pours in the holes that went right through it, two of the deeper fill and one of the shallower fill. There was a trick to blocking the holes at the bottom. I tried two methods, one where I just used tape and the other which involved boards with tape and silicone sealant screwed into the base. The latter was successful and the tape made a mess and all the epoxy drained out.

Possibly a stupid question as I've never played with epoxy, but why the differentiation by fill depth, do they have different shrinkage vs cure time properties?

[BigDL]

1 hour ago, geomark said:

Possibly a stupid question as I've never played with epoxy, but why the differentiation by fill depth, do they have different shrinkage vs cure time properties?

I think it’s to do with the amount of heat produced during the process by the chemical reaction.  As I understand it, the deeper fills will cure more slowly and thus the heat is less of an issue in a very insulated (by the rest of the resin) place whereas closer to the surface, it is easier for the heat to dissipate thus the cure can be faster. 
 

just to be clear, this is my understanding from the university of YouTube, so I may well have misunderstood 

[patches]

13 hours ago, Ed-Zulu said:

Hi Patches, I have a collection of Stanley blokcplanes, they all work really well when sharp. I really only need one, but I can't walk past old blockplanes and spoke shaves.

The Stanley in link 1 is the one I use often, chews plywood and hardwoods like a champ, great on end grain and can turn square into round in no time. I think application is key, so the decision is to a degree also personal preference?

Thanks for that!
Yeah, as a weekend-warrior with limited hand tool experience my skills will be surpassed by anything more than a caveman's flint stone 😅

That said, I recall buying an inexpensive coping saw and getting the hell in with it as the frame flex resulted in the blades deforming rather easily and made controlled coping rather difficult. Still possible, but a PITA.

Just wanted to make sure the more affordable Stanley block planes did not fall into that category, but sounds like they don't.

I think that's a good start though... a Stanley plane and maybe some investment in a sharpening system (thinking the "scary sharp" method with flat glass plates and 3M Lapping Paper).

If I really take to the plane and find myself reaching for it all the time, maybe then I can justify the Lie-Nielsen 😅

 

[PhilipV]

10 hours ago, patches said:

 

I think that's a good start though... a Stanley plane and maybe some investment in a sharpening system (thinking the "scary sharp" method with flat glass plates and 3M Lapping Paper).

I

A friend introduced me to this, with a fancy blade carrier that Corneel made for him. It makes using planes so much more satisfying. And I only have cheap/old Stanley's.

[patches]

After much procrastination, I finally made a little progress on some cabinet drawer and door fronts that have been on my to-do list for months (possibly a year).

I needed to devise and create a consistent, repeatable and accurate way to route a drawer pull detail.

First, there was a jig.

A super simple and easy to make jig to run a router guide bush around. A great idea I saw on Hawe & Awe's Youtube Vids was using the mitre saw to do the cuts quickly. Even though you can see the mitre saw overshoots the mark, it doesn't affect the guide bush. (the circle is not part of the jig. Just part of this MDF scrap).

That brought me into the guide bush... Finding a 45mm bush for a discontinued Festool router and aftermarket base would be nigh impossible.

So some quick Fusion360 and about 2.5hrs of printing...

 

Not my finest print but will do the job. The multiple mounting holes were set at slightly different PCD's as I couldn't accurately read the PCD of the router base. So I just printed in some options at 0.5mm increments either side of what I thought it should be.

Now for the test...

I clamped a test piece, engaged safety squints, and let her rip! Did about 3 passes, working my way towards the back of the template.

The result wasn't too bad for a first attempt.

Some tear-out as expected, but nothing a quick sand wont fix.

Not sure what happened there so will run another test to see if I maybe lifted the router up slightly or something like that.

Think I'll paint/stain the inside piece black (taped in green to give rough idea).

So yeah, a lot of effort to route 1 detail. I guess that's why I had been procrastinating it. 1 more test piece and if successful I'll hold thumbs and do the real thing (6 drawer and door fronts, all grain matched, hence why I can't afford a mess up).