Short Travel Trail Bike

[MuddyMike]

Going go out on a limb here......How about a Stumpy 650+ and buy a set of 29er wheels. Two bikes right there.

 

The 650+ is a fab trail bike full of fun and when you need to do a stage race or a fast marathon, pop on the 29er wheels and presto.

 

No worries about any changes to the geometry.

[Hairy]

Test both. 

 

FWIW - I'm 1.8 on the dot, and I tested an XL Banshee Spitfire at Paarl the other day. The bike was AMAZING. The only reason I wouldn't be able to get along with it was because the seat tube was too long, resulting in the saddle being sliiiightly too high at full drop (used with a dropper)

 

So - let that be your guideline. If you're running a 150mm dropper, and it can fit both the XL AND L, then you're golden. If the XL restricts you to a 125mm dropper, then you have a bit more to think about. 

 

Go in to Stoke, speak to Haylett (the ginger-bearded lady) and he'll walk you through everything. If Savage (the baby-faced assassin) is in the shop, then all the better. They're both solid blokes, and can advise you properly. 

 

They're also now Kona dealers... That's another option! Oh - and don't discount the Spitfire. OMG. That thing is.... yeah. It's just so darn tight, and fun, and sharp and had me whooping the whole way down Paarl (on both the medium and XL - I'd be a large)

 

On the face of it you'd be comfortable on both. Large with a longer stem and XL with a shorter stem. But test. Test, please. And take it somewhere where you'll test it properly. Jonkers. Pat's Track on Signal Hill. Steilte. Tokai... 

I am 1.78 and fit well on the Large Spitty and either a 45mm or 50mm stem.

 

140mm rear and 160mm up front......and the only time I ever drop the rear can into pedal or "lock out" mode is when I have had to commute to work and back (SS being stuck in the bike doctors office). All in, this is a bike I will be on for a long time still.

 

This is the first bike that feels as good "for me" since the good old Morewood Shova I used to have.

 

Actually, the PYGA 110 with a 140mm fork was also a good ride for the short test period I had one.

 

Either or ... both the PYGA and the BANSHEE's are through STOKE which = Excellent back up and support with honest no bull poopoo sales talk.

[Pikey]

Yip , we all the same but different ... different skill levels , ages , terain we ride perception of affordability and fun .

Life is great !! :-)

This completely ^^^^.

I love my tb and ride it in most places I am brave or stupid enough to take it. BUT I want more comfort & don't want to ride it on the edge of my capability . Where I make a mistake and it costs me in either in $ or claret.

 

Hence the longer travel to make up for my mistakes that I can get away with. And I'll happily suffer the consequences for the longer rides. Never gonna win ought anyway so might as well do it in comfort.

[Rigardt@Scott]

Going go out on a limb here......How about a Stumpy 650+ and buy a set of 29er wheels. Two bikes right there.

 

The 650+ is a fab trail bike full of fun and when you need to do a stage race or a fast marathon, pop on the 29er wheels and presto.

 

No worries about any changes to the geometry.

Exactly what I did - best move I've ever made!

 

Of course this applies to any boost bike! 29er or 27.5+. All of their wheels are interchangeable. And thag change makes a massive difference to the ride!

[Reden]

Steel hardtails ^^

I'll all for this if I only can get someone to add disk brake lugs to my old Giant Sedona SE frame.

Sort of a Old School bike. Magura Louise brakes and 3x9 X0.

[Eddy Gordo]

I'll all for this if I only can get someone to add disk brake lugs to my old Giant Sedona SE frame.

Sort of a Old School bike. Magura Louise brakes and 3x9 X0.

what about something like this

[Eddy Gordo]

all i know is, they work

[rudi-h]

I really want to understand the definition of 'doesn't descend well' and 'not as fun' etc. 

 

I am not trying to be a **** but I don't really understand the concept. I get bike speccing if you are hitting all the road gaps and drops on a big DH line, but the reality is we don't have super steep general trails in SA.

 

Besides, one really shouldn't ride a marathon on a DH bike. However, one can comfortably ride most SA trails really well on say, a Camber or a steel hardtail with decent travel. When does a bike stop being 'fun'?

 

If I bomb say 'The Plumber' in Jonkers top to bottom on my 68' Head angle steel hardtail 29er with 140mm forks I love every second of it.

 

It is the very definition of fun.

 

I have also ridden it on a 160mm trail bike and it was faster...... Faster, more stable.. even easier... but less fun.

 

I know owning rad bikes with travel and plushness and and and is awesome, but lets get the reasoning right.... fun? Less fun? What about less work? Easier? More plush? More stable? 

 

I dunno.... implying that getting down a trail can be less fun just seems like technology is sucking not only the skill but the enjoyment out of riding bikes

 

(Not wanting to start a flame up... just wondering that's all)

 

 

to me...  it's all about the head angle (and maybe dropper post) and not so much the mm's of suspension travel.  I have ridden many marathon bikes before and I just can't get enough weight away from the front to hop stuff, manuel through a river crossing or prevent being "nose heavy" in a steep rocky descent etc.  You need to be very, and I mean very good to hop a spez epic, scott spark or similar marathon racer over a 30cm treestump or rock in the trail, which is quite easy to do for us mortals on a bike with slacker geometry.

 

I've never been on a tallboy, but I own a 5010.  If the tallboy geometry is more like a marathon racer then I can vouch that a less aggressive geometry bike will be a lot more "capable" and "fun", purely because I can ride a slack geometry bike at the limit of my skills ability.

 

so in short:  slack geometry gives you control, control gives you confidence, confidence gives you speed and speed gives you fun!  and IMO choosing the right bike gives you speed whist also reducing your risk of going down.

[banna]

Hi Guys. Need some advise. I'm looking at buying a short travel trail bike (130-140mm)

 

I've got a short list of the following:

 

Trek fuel ex8

Santa Cruz 5010

Transition Scout

 

I want a fun trail bike that I can, if I want to, do the odd marathon race or even the odd enduro, but generally just have fun.

 

I've currently got a 2014 Giant trance, but my arse is itching for something new with updated geometry.

 

Any advise or experience with the above bikes will be appreciated.

 

Thanks

You can add the Hightower to that list....just saying.  

[hansolo]

I have a Rocky Mountain Instinct, it may be more of a "medium" travel trail bike with 130 mm travel front and rear. I'll be putting a 140 mm Pike on it shortly, 130 mm 29er Fox 32's is not ideal. Really awesome and very versatile bike. 2018 Altitudes has been unveiled, 2018 Instincts might be worth the wait.

 

I'm 1.9 m tall, weight way too much and ride an XL... 

[Pikey]

to me... it's all about the head angle (and maybe dropper post) and not so much the mm's of suspension travel. I have ridden many marathon bikes before and I just can't get enough weight away from the front to hop stuff, manuel through a river crossing or prevent being "nose heavy" in a steep rocky descent etc. You need to be very, and I mean very good to hop a spez epic, scott spark or similar marathon racer over a 30cm treestump or rock in the trail, which is quite easy to do for us mortals on a bike with slacker geometry.

 

I've never been on a tallboy, but I own a 5010. If the tallboy geometry is more like a marathon racer then I can vouch that a less aggressive geometry bike will be a lot more "capable" and "fun", purely because I can ride a slack geometry bike at the limit of my skills ability.

 

so in short: slack geometry gives you control, control gives you confidence, confidence gives you speed and speed gives you fun! and IMO choosing the right bike gives you speed whist also reducing your risk of going down.

I must admit head angle is pretty important to me as well,as it can make and mask your lack of skill exactly like rudi-h said.

 

I have owned a 5010 and tb2 at the same time (still have tb2 sold the 5010) but the 5010 was stock and the tb i specced & built to be the perfect ride for one "the bike does it all" theory . And it's pretty damn close I can tell you. After nearly a year I am still yearning for the slacker head head angle. And that's where I am now . Looking for the trial bike that can pedal over distance with out to much sacrifice.

 

The 5010 is a great trail bike and soooooo much fun in the rocks & rough stuff. But to pedal it over 75km. No thanks . And I'm an ok climber as well. It's great bike and I miss it sometimes . But it I found myself not riding it as often as I would rather take the tb.

 

The Tb2 still surprises me on most rides .In fact the tb rides so well I took the dropper of to try and push me to stop being lazy on longer out rides & races,that's how competent the bike is. The other thing I have learnt is that you can build a bike up or down but there is obvious limitations. But it is easirer to build a bike down and make it less trail/xc/ enduro whatever but it is harder and the limits are reached quicker trying to build a bike up . If that makes sesne . The tb is a fantastic fantastic bike it really is but I want a slacker head angle and slightly more rear travel. More head angle than travel though . I am very scared of selling it,but have settled on a new ride .

 

Hope this helps some how. I do agree with a post above that head angle and geo is more important than travel . Seldom really run out of travel on tb.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

What about an angle-set, Pikey?

[cadenceblur]

Have to share the sentiments shared above. Build the bike for maximum fun, confidence and comfort - most of us ride for fun don't we? The confidence I gained when I moved from a Scott Scale to the Pyga 110 was immense. I am now on an even slacker bike - Stage Max, while the Stage was an option - I am happy that I went with the Max - it just wants to go when pointed downward and doesn't feel like I am going to be flung off - paired with a Pike it's probably more bike than I need right now - but as my skill increases - I'll "grow" into it. 

[Pikey]

Have to share the sentiments shared above. Build the bike for maximum fun, confidence and comfort - most of us ride for fun don't we? The confidence I gained when I moved from a Scott Scale to the Pyga 110 was immense. I am now on an even slacker bike - Stage Max, while the Stage was an option - I am happy that I went with the Max - it just wants to go when pointed downward and doesn't feel like I am going to be flung off - paired with a Pike it's probably more bike than I need right now - but as my skill increases - I'll "grow" into it.

 

Thats my sentiments exactly ...

[Pikey]

What about an angle-set, Pikey?

i thought about that but as I am currently running a 130 fork already how slack would I get it. And I have experimented with a 140 for one ride and didn't like it as the front would lift on steep climbs. 130 is planted everywhere it's stupid how that 10 mm can just push it over the edge. Plus and this is probably the determining reason i am not going that route I do want to go more travel at the back as well as slacker head angle. Does that make sense ?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

i thought about that but as I am currently running a 130 fork already how slack would I get it. And I have experimented with a 140 for one ride and didn't like it as the front would lift on steep climbs. 130 is planted everywhere it's stupid how that 10 mm can just push it over the edge. Plus and this is probably the determining reason i am not going that route I do want to go more travel at the back as well as slacker head angle. Does that make sense ?

yeah it does. Buuuut... angleset and a 140 will ease that lifting on the climbs...