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Smart indoor trainer - which one?


marie-louise

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Posted

Cheapest smart trainer is probably the Tacx Vortex Smart

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/tacx-trainer-vortex-smart-t2180

 

Cyclops Magnus or Tacx Flux are probably your best entries to the smart trainer market due to the power limit on the Vortex Smart (high intensity intervals will be a no-no with a 950W/10s limit although nobody has been able to tell me what happens when you exceed that limit)

https://www.bicyclepower.co.za/product/magnus-electronic-indoor-trainer/

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/tacx-t2900-flux-smart-trainer

Remember you need a cassette for the Flux and ideally a dedicated training wheel for the Magnus.

 

Add a cadence sensor (get the Wahoo one since it does Bluetooth and ANT+) for R1k.

https://www.bicyclepower.co.za/product/wahoo-rpm-cadence-sensor/

 

Pick from a host of software available on iPad/iPhone/Android/PC/Mac at approx. 10USD per month.

If you're using Zwift on a PC/Mac get an ANT+ stick (if you're using it on your iPad you can use Bluetooth):

https://www.bicyclepower.co.za/product/ant-mini-usb-stick/

Thanks for the links and all the contributions.

I promised myself, if I train the whole winter on my old Elite, I may spoil myself with a smart trainer.

 

I am a simple guy, it all just seems so complicated with the add-on`s and compatibility issues.

Almost like buying a german car with all of the extras...

 

I still ride a 9 speed bike, perhaps money is better spend on a new bike.

 

PS. My 9 speed bike probably do not fit.

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Posted

I've got the Vortex Smart, and if you ride a route with gradients/resistance higher than it can manage, it adjusts your virtual speed down (at least in VirtualTraining). Can't say about the 950W/10s thing - even if I could reach 950W, I don't think I could keep it there for long enough.

 

Even though it cannot let you properly feel the steeper climbs, it can still give you a pretty hard workout, so not a bad option if you don't have the extra R4k for the Flux.

The motor sized. I broke 2 of them.
Posted

The motor sized. I broke 2 of them.

Thanks for the warning! I'll stick with FTP-based and riding routes with videos/races on the trainer.

Posted

Is it normal to need to set gears every time i go from the direct drive trainer to normal riding when you have an 11sp cassette on the trainer and on bike? What could be the reason for this? Maybe a spacer between the cassette and the kickr because it seems that the derailer pushes up against the trainer frame when in lightest gear?

 

Sorry for the brief hijack

Posted

I am also on the market for an IDT and this tread has been very helpful. I have narrowed my choice to be between Wahoo KickR snap or Tacx Flux. I have read on some reviews that the Flux has defects, not sure if they have been resolved on the new batch that is being sold now. Any idea?

Posted

I am also on the market for an IDT and this tread has been very helpful. I have narrowed my choice to be between Wahoo KickR snap or Tacx Flux. I have read on some reviews that the Flux has defects, not sure if they have been resolved on the new batch that is being sold now. Any idea?

Look at the Magnus special. its a good wheel on trainer.

Posted

Is it normal to need to set gears every time i go from the direct drive trainer to normal riding when you have an 11sp cassette on the trainer and on bike? What could be the reason for this? Maybe a spacer between the cassette and the kickr because it seems that the derailer pushes up against the trainer frame when in lightest gear?

 

Sorry for the brief hijack

You can limit your derailleur to still shift up but not to get too close, for your wheel, you can put a 1mm spacer on the freehub and it should align.

Posted

I reckon the only way you don't open your head on that thing is if you have Sagan like skills.

I have used a similar one, but it was for Ice hockey training back in the day. 

 

I guess this is a simpler version of rollers.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Where can I get the Flux smart, thanks

Posted

I just started my Zwift "on-the-cheap" solution today using an old Tacx Cycletrack "dumb" trainer coupled with a Wahoo BlueSC speed/cadence sensor. Did my first Zwift ride this morning and it seemed ok, although i think the power may have been slightly off the mark (or my legs are just weak). Will give it a few more goes.

 

Anyway, been looking at either the CycleOps Magnus or Wahoo Snap as possible options but am curious about the power outputs. How accurate are these actually considering it measures on the "flywheel/magnetic drive" and not peddles or wheel?

 

any insights from those in the know? 

 

thnx

Posted

I just started my Zwift "on-the-cheap" solution today using an old Tacx Cycletrack "dumb" trainer coupled with a Wahoo BlueSC speed/cadence sensor. Did my first Zwift ride this morning and it seemed ok, although i think the power may have been slightly off the mark (or my legs are just weak). Will give it a few more goes.

 

Anyway, been looking at either the CycleOps Magnus or Wahoo Snap as possible options but am curious about the power outputs. How accurate are these actually considering it measures on the "flywheel/magnetic drive" and not peddles or wheel?

 

any insights from those in the know? 

 

thnx

Wahoo claims an accuracy rate of +/- 5% for the KICKR SNAP, compared to +/- 2% for the full KICKR.  Wahoo believes they might be able to increase the accuracy a bit more, but are still working to refine that.  So for now – they’re sticking to +/- 5%.  In my testing, it seems very much within that range.

 

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/06/wahoo-kickr-snap.html

Posted

We generally rate the Magnus to within 5% and can handles climbs of 15% incline. 

 

Future firmware updates may improve this and CycleOps are working on it. Hammer is accurate to within +/- 3% right now and future firmware updates will improve this. While the Hammer will handle up to 20% grade.

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