Reghardt van Rensburg Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 Any suggestions on a safe to use lubricant for a MTB.It's dry terrain mostly, and I often do a drivetrain wash with Clean Green, and then found that Squirt works best for me as a lube.Just have had to replace a brand new XT M800 rear derailleur after 9months of use. Shop said the spring was worn out, not possible to fix it, don't know anything about servicing it myself so I replaced it with a SLX M700.Is it worth getting a spray-on lubricant for the derailleur even at all? I often rinse it with soapy water. I see professional techs use a spray-on lubricant. But don't know of any brands worth getting. Also don't want to damage the new part by adding WD40 or something generic. Also would it be safe to spray product on your shifter?
Odinson Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 Really odd that a new M8000 RD would need to be replaced after 9 months. RD's can run for years without any real maintenance. It's usually also a part that doesn't require much maintenance. Any kind of spray-on lubricant shouldn't be necessary to get sufficient product life out of a RD. P.S. WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a water displacer.
Kalahari Vegmot Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 Just keep it clean, that's all. You don't want anything that can attract dirt. Do you still have the old derailleur?
Grease_Monkey Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 Very strange it gave in that quickly. At the end of your ride get in the habbit of putting your bike in it's hardest gear at the back (smallest cog on the cassette), that way the spring is in it's most relaxed position extending it's life. But, even if this was not done it still seems really odd it wore out so fast. If it's still less than a year old maybe try a warranty claim? EDIT: Sorry, I have no useful info on the actual question you asked...
Mojoman Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 I bought a 20ml syringe and a long hypodermic needle from the chemist (I got some looks when I said its for my bike...) and filled off the sharp end of the needle. Filled the syringe up with a lightweight oil and use this to add a drop or two if oil once in a while onto the 'pivot' points of the FD/RD. I got thousands of K's out of my XT RD. In fact it literally just fell apart at the end! Just remember to wipe off any dust and oil after the first ride... Also useful for padlocks and anywhere where you just need a drop of oil and not a stream/spray full....
Sepia Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 I bought a 20ml syringe and a long hypodermic needle from the chemist (I got some looks when I said its for my bike...) and filled off the sharp end of the needle. Filled the syringe up with a lightweight oil and use this to add a drop or two if oil once in a while onto the 'pivot' points of the FD/RD. I got thousands of K's out of my XT RD. In fact it literally just fell apart at the end! Just remember to wipe off any dust and oil after the first ride... Also useful for padlocks and anywhere where you just need a drop of oil and not a stream/spray full....I do this often. I wipe off the excess before I ride. Keep the spring lubricated with a covering. Clean Green removes this protective layer hence the need for some sort of lubricant for protection.Keep the RD clean at all times. I have a big compressor at home and it helps to blow it clean and dry regularly. With the cost of parts these days a little preventative maintenance helps in the long run.I use a normal engine oil, for my chains too.
dwinter Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 What were the symptoms of your RD giving up the ghost? After about a year my M8000 lost some of its tension and would just flop forward and my chain would hang loose in the lower gears. The LBS said it was a clutch issue and “tightened something up” which stopped the floppy RD, but ever since then I haven’t used my clutch because it’s made the shifting stiff. My RD works, but it’s also recently started creaking which made me start researching the clutch system. (After a colleague suggested it) Turns out the shimano clutches are pretty simple things than can be adjusted and lubricated when needed. Shimano recommends the same lube you use for shimano hubs (cwc recently started stocking it) but another LBS swears by using Finish Line wet lube (green bottle) as a lube on your clutch. Watch YouTube for guidance, but you simply remove the clutch cover (3 screws) and drop a dollop of finish line in there and move the RD arm back and forwards. They use FL for just about any creaking part. I think shimano clutches are also prone to breaking at a particular point (piece that supports the tensioning screw) and one unfortunately can’t source replacement clutches locally...we seem to be a replace rather than a repair mkt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Meezo Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 I’ve seen another XT M8000 do the same Bad maintenance and cleaning is my reasoning, but still really strange that it does that. Clean green will clean it spotless as for the spring tension, I’m not sure if shimano has a way of tensioning them up
Martin PJ Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 I don't lube anything on the MTB except the chain. Just attracts dirt which makes things worse. With the Shimano the derailleur springs can be tightened. There are two spring holes, takes about five minutes to tighten the spring. Look on Youtube for videos. You will soon see if your Shimano derailleur spring can be tightened. I have done it on my Shimano 105 recently. You can drill a new hole with a 2 mm drill bit if you need more tightening holes.
Wil6 Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 Think this is the most comments a Shimano thread got before someone suggested to put it in the trash and to get SRAM
dwinter Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 Ha ha..all my mates running GX haven’t exactly been singing its praises from the rooftops..it’s also got its issues. OP - meant to ask - are you running an oval chainring? I wonder if the constant rocking of the RD as the oval turns doesn’t perhaps put additional strain on it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Martin PJ Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 Ha ha..all my mates running GX haven’t exactly been singing its praises from the rooftops..it’s also got its issues. OP - meant to ask - are you running an oval chainring? I wonder if the constant rocking of the RD as the oval turns doesn’t perhaps put additional strain on it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The RD does not move with an oval. The total circumference around the chain ring does not change when you pedal.
NotSoBigBen Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 The RD does not move with an oval. The total circumference around the chain ring does not change when you pedal.I definitely notice a slight 'rocking' of the pulley cage if I pedal with an oval .... Very slight though, with a 34 oval Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk
the nerd Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 I think shimano clutches are also prone to breaking at a particular point (piece that supports the tensioning screw) and one unfortunately can’t source replacement clutches locally...we seem to be a replace rather than a repair mkt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That's your LBS selling you a new RD. Coolheat have had clutch spares and new clutches as kits your LBS can order...
Martin PJ Posted January 23, 2018 Posted January 23, 2018 I definitely notice a slight 'rocking' of the pulley cage if I pedal with an oval .... Very slight though, with a 34 oval Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk I use a Chinese oval chainring, they have managed to perfect the oval into a circle. Maybe that is why it doesn't really work.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.