Bike Rack on back of Camping Trailer?

[Butterbean]

So we got ourselves an awesome Offroad camping trailer a couple of months ago, and while I've successfully used the sides of the trailer to carry a bike on, I was hoping for some feedback on the safety and viability of putting a normal towbar rack and two mountain bikes on the rear of the trailer?

 

The trailer does already have a towbar mount at the rear, is braked, and Tare weight is at 580kgs with decent shocks and lead spring suspension design. Towed by a Fortuner, if that makes a difference. Has a trailer top tent so roof mount is not an option and I want to keep bikes off car roof for consumption reasons (I know towing doesn't help already but yeah). We never really fully load the trailer but its rated to carry 1800kgs, and Fortuner can tow 3000 if braked... Weight not a concern but maybe more the physics behind it?

 

My worries are:

 

Too much weight on rear of trailer causing some sway/stability issues

 

Too much movement at rear of trailer causing stress to bikes, or causing them to fall off? Would likely end up using a Thule 2 or 3 bike hang on rack if it's viable.

 

Thanks!

[WrightJnr]

3 bikes will be an extra 30kg right at the back of your trailer at least. Very tough to say but I would worry about swaying.

 

I towed a trailer and fortuner combo for may years. I had our 4 MTB’s on the fortuner roof. Never had a problem and honestly couldn’t see much in extra fuel over what the trailer was adding anyway. Only issue was my 3 meter hight clearance at most park entrances and the odd place.

 

Remember if you do go with the back option, to keep numberplates and lights of the trailer clear otherwise the popo will hand you love letters.

[ChrisF]

IF you decide to go this route - re-pack the trailer to put some weight on the hitch.  Should be easy enough to offset the bikes weight at the back.

 

 

Another item all together to check if the trailer hitch is up to the task ....

 

 

 

YES, the bikes may well experience much more movement on the back of a trailer than it would on the back of a vehicle .... should not damage the bikes, BUT, it will put a lot more stress on the towball and Thuli rack .....

 

 

 

Probably why you see so many touring rigs with the bikes on the vehicle roof ....  once of expence, and you are sorted (as long as you remember the clearance height)

[NotSoBigBen]

That's how I do it .....

 

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[Butterbean]

Thanks for the replies so far..

 

Some more clarification:

 

I only plan on carrying two bikes with the setup.

 

Cost is also a factor against roof system, but if Im left without I guess that's the next option.

 

My towbar has a step which blocks any extended plates from rising up, and unfortunately the wheels of the trailer mean the ball needs to be mounted highest. Holdfast rack looked like the business till the step got in the way!

[ChrisF]

Have you considered the "towbar-extenders" ... on many SUV's and 4x4's the towball is moved back by means of a square tube to clear a step or rear-mounted spare.

 

could this solve your problem ?

 

 

have a look at the images for this: "holdfast tow bar extender"

[Butterbean]

Have you considered the "towbar-extenders" ... on many SUV's and 4x4's the towball is moved back by means of a square tube to clear a step or rear-mounted spare.

 

could this solve your problem ?

 

 

have a look at the images for this: "holdfast tow bar extender"

I have, but have doubts on their weight carrying capabilities. As far as I could research, they're designed solely to clear obstacles for your rack, and not to be towed with. Do you know otherwise though? Might be a great option!

[Butterbean]

If I packed all of my cargo noseward, does anyone with towing experience think that 30kgs on the very back of the trailer will make a noticeable difference? I guess that's really the crux of the matter...

 

I also realize that bike frames are designed to carry major stresses when a personal actually rides them, so the possible bouncing isn't a concern anymore really... But safe towing is..

[grc]

I have a mate who tried this and landed up doing most of the trip with a couple of bikes in the car!! Be very careful to ensure that the weight on the tow bar remains the same as it is now - and I certainly believe that a couple of bikes that far back behind the axle will make a dramatic difference to your nose weight.

[The Ouzo]

Don’t put them on the roof. It’s a real PITA.

Even on the top of my hatch back i have clearance issues.

Can’t get under the carport at my dads house which is much higher than normal because we always had ski boats.

Clipped trees yesterday dispite trying my best to drive around low hanging branches.

Can’t imagine what it would be like on a fortuner.

 

 

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[eddy]

As you dont fill the trailer, could you not take thw wheels off and put them in the trailer ?

[Cois]

if you have a fridge in the camper move it to your car or the nose.

 

My dad tried this once.  We stopped and loaded the bikes in the bakkie and one flat on the roof of the trailer.  It sways way too much and became a danger above 50 km/h.

 

The problem is the weight and another... you will not be able to see what is going on at the back.  Same goes for the roof.  You can't see what is going on.  If you are a packing expert you can rather load them inside is there is space.

[ChrisF]

I have done about 5 000km with the bikes on the roof last year.

 

You are always "aware" of it.  

 

There is one low hanging tree near our house which has to be driven around ...

 

At Augrabies my wife had to get out and guide me into the petrol station ... cleared it by about 30mm !!

 

So yes, you learn to plan around it .....

 

If I could only have ONE bike rack .... it would be a roof rack

 

 

I LOVE the platform rack, but just way too dusty when doing dirt roads.  So now I use the right rack as per our trip.

[PhilipV]

Well seeing as you already have the towbar on the trailer, borrow a rack from a mate, load your bikes and go and test it. (But first climb under your trailer and make sure the towbar's mounting points are sufficient.)

In short, it can work if you pack the trailer correctly after the weight has been added.

 

The nose weight of a trailer should always be heavier than the front. I like a heavy nose, my rule of thumb is if I can pick it up while straining, I know it is about 70, if I can't, it's about 100kg. If it picks up easily, it's too light, and that's a no-go.

 

If you add weight on the back, move heavy stuff forwards. Fridge, tent cooler box, wood etc (the heavy stuff in my trailer.)

Grab a bathroom scale, put a rubber mat and a piece of wood on it, and weigh the nose weight by putting the jockey wheel on the scale.

If you want to be 100% correct measure the nose weight on a piece of strong wood (trailer needs to be level.)

The data plate on your towbar will state the max towball weight, regulation weight is 75kg IIRC.

 

You might even find that the trailer is very nose heavy by default and you don't have to shift to much weight. Jurgens trailers and caravans are like this, it makes them tow better.

[The Ouzo]

Well seeing as you already have the towbar on the trailer, borrow a rack from a mate, load your bikes and go and test it. (But first climb under your trailer and make sure the towbar's mounting points are sufficient.)

In short, it can work if you pack the trailer correctly after the weight has been added.

 

The nose weight of a trailer should always be heavier than the front. I like a heavy nose, my rule of thumb is if I can pick it up while straining, I know it is about 70, if I can't, it's about 100kg. If it picks up easily, it's too light, and that's a no-go.

 

If you add weight on the back, move heavy stuff forwards. Fridge, tent cooler box, wood etc (the heavy stuff in my trailer.)

Grab a bathroom scale, put a rubber mat and a piece of wood on it, and weigh the nose weight by putting the jockey wheel on the scale.

If you want to be 100% correct measure the nose weight on a piece of strong wood (trailer needs to be level.)

The data plate on your towbar will state the max towball weight, regulation weight is 75kg IIRC.

 

You might even find that the trailer is very nose heavy by default and you don't have to shift to much weight. Jurgens trailers and caravans are like this, it makes them tow better.

After I posted my post above at home I thought about doing the scale thing and was going to post about it when I got to the office, you beat me to it.

 

If you pack the trailer right the extra weight out back wont make a difference.

[Pieter-za]

Having had this question myself as I own an Echo 4, some pointers:

• Do not exceed max static load on the tow bar (Especially if you add bikes on the tow bar icw with your trailer)  
• Depending on the position of the trailer's axle it might not be necessary to move the load more forward to compensate
• Some hinges / mountings (e.g. those of the rear mounted spare wheel on some trailers)  are not designed for the additional forces extra load will bring