Mongoose! Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Removed front brake lever and caliper. Avid Elixer fronts are piss poor anyway Remember to remove the front rotor as well.Still have all crank bolts on?Rear rotor fitted with 3 or 6 bolts?...
Me rida my bicycle Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 This sounds like one of those in my last days before ICU.???? I have always been a weight weeny had a 8.85kg cannondale FSI with everything carbon even the Lefty and now ride a 10kg Scale with actual brakes and you know what there's absolutely no difference in the climbing because the rotating weight is the same ie the wheels. You want to climb better forget all the carbon bits and upgrade your wheels.
Nakoota Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Get yourself a good hacksaw and then cut the back facing half of your handlebars off, leaving only full round for the stem clam and grips. Thank me later.
Ampandy Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 Maybe tighten the NUT THAT HOLDS THE bars...... seems to have some issues there.
Wayne pudding Mol Posted October 5, 2018 Posted October 5, 2018 I think you have a great plan - don’t listen to anyone but I suggest you ensure all medical and life policies are up to date - other top weight saving tips, Don’t wear socks, reduce rotor bolts, don’t bother with grips if you have gloves, take out a few pesky spokes, drill holes in your saddle and anything else that can be drilled - keep us updated
Clinton H Posted October 6, 2018 Posted October 6, 2018 I reckon you can save even more if you do this race with out water , that’s a kilo right there ... your welcome
'Kaze Pete Posted October 6, 2018 Posted October 6, 2018 We all know saddle bags are not cool, but why mount the saddle bag behind the handle bars?This looks even worse! Get rid of it and save the equivalent of 5kg in drag
VicanZA Posted October 6, 2018 Posted October 6, 2018 Post details for this ride? Wanna see why u going ham.
Shebeen Posted October 6, 2018 Posted October 6, 2018 For the type of riding I do, rear brakes. Almost never use front brakes thanks to an OTB accident in my early yearsI can't believe I'm reading this.might as well leave that helmet at home too. Depending on the race, 2 brakes is normally a requirement.
Hackster Posted October 6, 2018 Posted October 6, 2018 Keep with it Dave, I like your style. Also consider drilling holes in your seat post and cranks. In fact, why don't you climb like a real man and leave the saddle and seat post behind.
Jaws677 Posted October 6, 2018 Posted October 6, 2018 Dave the best and cheapest way to save on rotational mass is to remove every second spoke from the wheelset. During climbing they add nothing in the form of strength or stiffness O and obviously change the nipples to aluminium And don't listen to the haters keep up the good work
pista Posted October 6, 2018 Posted October 6, 2018 I have a 2012 Scott Scale 940. IYou'll like Gustav. https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/worlds-lightest-mountain-bike-373549 You can follow him here. https://www.instagram.com/dangerholm/
partydave Posted October 8, 2018 Author Posted October 8, 2018 Took the bike for a spin. Weight reduction from removing front brake was massive, so I removed the rear brake as well. Won't be going fast enough that I need to brake quickly. Thinking of finding the cheapest set of carbon hoops I can find from china as well, any suggestions? They don't need to be good quality, just really cheap and last at least 1 race
s14phoenix Posted October 8, 2018 Posted October 8, 2018 Took the bike for a spin. Weight reduction from removing front brake was massive, so I removed the rear brake as well. Won't be going fast enough that I need to brake quickly. Thinking of finding the cheapest set of carbon hoops I can find from china as well, any suggestions? They don't need to be good quality, just really cheap and last at least 1 race This is going is going into my "baiting" category now.
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