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Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo


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Posted
9 minutes ago, MajG said:

Self populated or downloaded from various websites?

Thanks for the info

Taken from manufacturers sites, but i weigh every tyre i get and most at my LBS and the comparison to stated masses is well within manufacturing error IMO.

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Posted

Wheelie 87 - apparently its a trait of longer travel air springs. I'm running 180mm up front on the basic air spring - no debonair or fancy addons. If you  run lower air pressure, the rebound speed suffers even at the fastest setting on my more basic damper. So I've simply found a happy medium and left it at that. 

Posted
49 minutes ago, Wheelie87 said:

Thanks!
Bear with me here, but the reason I go down to ~100psi is that it feels less harsh and I actually use most of the travel when coming down e.g. Jonkers etc whereas it felt quite harsh and I noticed that I hardly used all the travel  and on a 140mm I want use as much as possible.
Is this logic flawed ?

100% correct. But, do you really need to use all the travel? I usually have 1cm to 2cm unused after a normal ride on my 150mm Pike with my setup as described earlier. If I were you I'd see how many volume spacers you have an try taking one out and setting it to 115PSI. If it feels better, take out another spacer (assuming you have more than one installed). It does take a bit of trial and error, but it is worth it to get there in the end. From trawling the overseas forums, higher pressures and fewer volume spacers offers a more comfortable ride.

Posted
1 minute ago, thebob said:

100% correct. But, do you really need to use all the travel? I usually have 1cm to 2cm unused after a normal ride on my 150mm Pike with my setup as described earlier. If I were you I'd see how many volume spacers you have an try taking one out and setting it to 115PSI. If it feels better, take out another spacer (assuming you have more than one installed). It does take a bit of trial and error, but it is worth it to get there in the end. From trawling the overseas forums, higher pressures and fewer volume spacers offers a more comfortable ride.

Good idea. I run no volume spacers on my 180 fork and I weigh about 87kg. I'm sitting at under 60psi and also usually have 20mm unused unless I've done something stupid. 

Posted
22 minutes ago, thebob said:

But, do you really need to use all the travel? 

I would definitely like to use all of it if I can - it is just a 140mm
Call my crazy but I get a sense of accomplishment when the red o-ring is right below the Debon Air inscription after a lekker ride haha

Will phone a friend to help me confirm amount of tokens and proceed to remove and test as recommended. (not a great maccie myself)
 

 

Posted
21 hours ago, StevieG said:

Do any of you run tyre inserts for your Enduro rigs?

I have a Schwalbe Super Gravity casing on the back with an insert. Even with that intense casing I was bottoming out the tyres, but I am big and ride about as graceful as a bowling ball down a ladder. On the front I've got a Super Trail casing, but have even had good luck with an EXO+ casing. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Adr!@n said:

I have a Schwalbe Super Gravity casing on the back with an insert. Even with that intense casing I was bottoming out the tyres, but I am big and ride about as graceful as a bowling ball down a ladder. On the front I've got a Super Trail casing, but have even had good luck with an EXO+ casing. 

Tyre pressure and rider mass at bottomout on the SG casing?

 

I should have noted mine too actually...74/5kg kitted and 24PSI on 2018 Transition Patrol with 168mm rear travel (Cascade Link).

These are useful and interesting comparisons to make me thinks :)

Posted
3 minutes ago, Thermophage said:

Tyre pressure and rider mass at bottomout on the SG casing?

About 100kg, on a Giant Trance, 26-28-ish psi in the rear. That being said, I rode Pat's Track a couple of times lately and those proper square edges do their work. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, Adr!@n said:

About 100kg, on a Giant Trance, 26-28-ish psi in the rear. That being said, I rode Pat's Track a couple of times lately and those proper square edges do their work. 

35km/hr at 100kg + 16kg bike will do that. It's CONSIDERABLY more energy that the tyre needs to deal with than say me at the same speed.

1/2mv^2 and all :)

Posted
1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

IMHO if your bike is set up properly you should bottom your fork out on every ride (assuming you ride trails)

If I am not getting my o-ring to within a couple of mm from the CSU then I am not set up correctly. 

 

What travel fork do you manage that on, because I can assure you if I was bottoming out my Yari, it would not be set up correctly on the damping front 🙂 

Posted
1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

IMHO if your bike is set up properly you should bottom your fork out on every ride (assuming you ride trails)

If I am not getting my o-ring to within a couple of mm from the CSU then I am not set up correctly. 

 

same for me,

too much speed at the DH1 drop at tokai, or not on the brakes enough at the last table and DH3 entry is my main places for this... and every so now and then the entry of the boomslang

Posted

Following this thread has made me realise I need to remove a token from my fox 34.

75kg and it would take an act of God to bottom out my fork with anything less than 50% sag.

It feels way too progressive for me.

Any suggestions where I can find a chamfer-less 26mm socket that doesn't break the bank?

Posted
Just now, Trashy said:

Following this thread has made me realise I need to remove a token from my fox 34.

75kg and it would take an act of God to bottom out my fork with anything less than 50% sag.

It feels way too progressive for me.

Any suggestions where I can find a chamfer-less 26mm socket that doesn't break the bank?

a mate of mine, bought a normal socket and the shop he got it from grinded it down a bit to remove "chamfer" i'll find our which shop...

Posted
Just now, Meezo said:

a mate of mine, bought a normal socket and the shop he got it from grinded it down a bit to remove "chamfer" i'll find our which shop...

@usxorf

Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, Trashy said:

Following this thread has made me realise I need to remove a token from my fox 34.

75kg and it would take an act of God to bottom out my fork with anything less than 50% sag.

It feels way too progressive for me.

Any suggestions where I can find a chamfer-less 26mm socket that doesn't break the bank?

3D printer?  sorry, thought you were looking for tokens.

A socket + vice and a grinder with a file, then finish it off with some sand paper.

Edited by Hairy

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