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Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo


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Posted
16 hours ago, Wheelie87 said:

I have experienced the same on my Pike Ult 
Any advise on the dark arts of setting the LSC and HSC 
I get it right every now and then but mostly not lol I see now this was posted in March (still relevant to me though)
 

I have my Pike working very nicely with the following methodology (start with everything full open):

20% sag

Rebound set so the wheel doesn't jump off the floor when doing a big fast compression

HSC backed all the way out then one click in

LSC at 12 clicks from full closed. I found a nice spot where it help me up under braking, but wasn't too soft

16 minutes ago, StevieG said:

Was looking at cushcore, but hard to find locally. Running DHF2 front and rear, and so far so good, no punctures or rim dings yet. Not too fussed with the weight, but was also thinking along the lines of getting a faster rolling rear tyre with cushcore, and then keeping the dhf on the front.

Try a xSixx Foamo. Pretty light for the wide single ply version and should help keep the rims in one piece

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Posted
1 hour ago, thebob said:

I have my Pike working very nicely with the following methodology (start with everything full open):

20% sag

Rebound set so the wheel doesn't jump off the floor when doing a big fast compression

HSC backed all the way out then one click in

LSC at 12 clicks from full closed. I found a nice spot where it help me up under braking, but wasn't too soft

Ah OK great, will definitely try it out on my next ride and give feedback
I reckon I am around ~95kg with kit and RS recommends ~110psi (which I find too high, I run ever so slightly under 100) rebound -7 clicks
The fork is still stock standard/factory settings and according to RS 2 tokens (I need to confirm this myself)
Will implement the above and see - I am a set and forget type so every time I attempt to fine tune the LSC/HSC I tend to mess it all up

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Thermophage said:

Which casing DHR, that's the NB bit. EXO/EXO+ for the rear can eat a bag of dicks. I can kill them on a mistake easy at 30PSI, never mind the fact I feel the tread pattern has no straight line braking traction. 

Conversely I can run a Schwalbe SG casing on the rear at 24PSI on TM, Tokai, Jonkers and not ping a rim even under mistakes :S

And no inserts needed either :) woop woop.

We need to talk far more about casing in addition to tread pattern when it comes to tyres and you'll quickly find Maxxiss is not necessarily the best for your riding preference.

Which Schwalbe is that? I'm keen to give it a go. Haven't tried Schwalbe in quite a few years now. Im running AssGuys front an back at the moment (maxxgrip), but to be honest, that's just too much grip. It's fine on the front, but I prefer the back a little bit looser.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Rock Guy said:

Which Schwalbe is that? I'm keen to give it a go. Haven't tried Schwalbe in quite a few years now. Im running AssGuys front an back at the moment (maxxgrip), but to be honest, that's just too much grip. It's fine on the front, but I prefer the back a little bit looser.

Currently the Big Betty 275x2.4 in Addix Soft (kinda like MaxxTerra). I have another brand new one for sale (shameless plug) if you are on 275 - not available in RSA because nobody talks about casing with any regularity here, so importers don't (generally) either :(. My current go to rear tyre is actually the Spez Butcher in Grid Gravity for both grip, rolling resistance (yes, it rolls better than the DHR2 and the Big Betty in my experience) and sidewall protection.

The Grid Gravity is stronger than a DoubleDown and an lighter than Maxass DH. The SuperGravity is stronger than the DH from Maxxis and similar weights...I have a spreadsheet if anyone is interested.

Posted
51 minutes ago, Wheelie87 said:

 

Do you know if you are running the new Debonair spring with the smaller negative spring or the older one with the bigger negative spring?

Posted
4 minutes ago, Meezo said:

Nobody shreds burms as hard as thermopage especially Tygerberg MTB burms.

👀

Especially on my red groad bike with the skinny tyres. Haven't ridden there in many many months.

Posted
11 minutes ago, thebob said:

Do you know if you are running the new Debonair spring with the smaller negative spring or the older one with the bigger negative spring?

image.png.04845f7029880478ec68aa4844786191.png

Posted
24 minutes ago, Wheelie87 said:

image.png.04845f7029880478ec68aa4844786191.png

So bigger negative air chamber. That means the fork sucks down into its travel a little more than the new one and should be more sensitive off the top. It does mean you might want a bit more air pressure than the suggested chart pressure to keep the midstroke nice and supportive. Maybe 115PSI?

Posted
4 minutes ago, thebob said:

So bigger negative air chamber. That means the fork sucks down into its travel a little more than the new one and should be more sensitive off the top. It does mean you might want a bit more air pressure than the suggested chart pressure to keep the midstroke nice and supportive. Maybe 115PSI?

Thanks!
Bear with me here, but the reason I go down to ~100psi is that it feels less harsh and I actually use most of the travel when coming down e.g. Jonkers etc whereas it felt quite harsh and I noticed that I hardly used all the travel  and on a 140mm I want use as much as possible.
Is this logic flawed ?

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