Arries87 Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 I got an whatsapp yesterday from my riding buddy informing me that he has entered us into the Race to the Sun... Up to now, 100km is a long ride for me, this is a 167km ride! Am I fit enough, ehhh, maybe... He is an XCO junky whilst I prefer trail riding. However, most of our riding is extended rides of 70 to 80km with about 900m elevation gain. I ride all of the time on my dual sus 140mm travel trail bike (Titan Skyrim), however I still have my GT Avalanche Sport Hardtail in the garage that I started my riding on. Seeing that this is a completely non-technical, gravel road event I am toying with the idea of using the hard tail and was keen on hearing your opinions. Overview of the "race" (timed event for me)Distance: 167kmRoute: Gravel district roads and minor tarApparent elevation gain and loss: About 950m and 1050m respectively Trail Bike breakdown:Weight: 15.4kg 140mm travel front and rearWheels: 650b - 2,4"Maxxis Ardent on the front and 2.25" Maxxis Crossmark on the rearGearing: SRAM 1X11 groupset (32t crank with a 11-42 cassette)Hardtail breakdown:Weight: 14.3kg (apparently)100mm coil forkWheels: 29" Maxxis Crossmark front and rearGearing: Sunrace CS-M90, 11-34T, 9-Speed Cassette with a 44/32/22T crankYes, I know it is a big step up in distance etc... There is a shuttle that will pick up the slowest riders if they fall out and we will have a "support" vehicle. So no comments about the madness etc. What would you do? And why would you do it?
Firozfx Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 Go with the hardtail. The 32 11 gearing on the duallie is going to burn your legs
ajnkzn Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 HT all the way. Is it tubeless? Seems tres heavy.
peetwindhoek Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 The hardtail because of the range in gears...
Arries87 Posted January 29, 2019 Author Posted January 29, 2019 HT all the way. Is it tubeless? Seems tres heavy. It is tubeless, I have not weighed the HT, the weight is from a website that found. Will weigh it tonight when I get home
mrcg Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 For sure the HT, for those surface conditions. You might have a few butt issues after but you'll get over it (play with tyre pressure to find best suited). Don't think you'll battle with the distance: the key is your speed/effort of course. Doing 70/80km regular will stand you in good stead. Perhaps try fit in one +-110/120km ride (this weekend?). Remember regular nutrition and hydration - stating the obvious.Perhaps also look how you can lighten your HT? Take off unnecessary weight where possible.Enjoy and good luck
Butterbean Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 I think the trail bike... The rear squish will be very well appreciated towards the end, far more than gearing or weight, imo...
RobertWhitehead Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 Is that my options? Isn't there a third option? Something like - do not enter the race at all . But on a serious note: Definitely not the trail bike, the 140mm will feel like you're riding on a cooked noodle (all squishy and soft) - you will lose quite a bit of power over the distance and you'll be slower than on the HT. The GT will be quick but it is on the heavy side. You could easily drop about +/-2kg's on it if you're willing to throw some cash in its direction . This would however result in you riding it most of the time though . Now before anyone jumps in and say: Prove it, here's a list of sure fire weight savers off that machine: (I'm being conservative here)Crank - easily 500 - 1000g by upgrading to a hollowtechFork - again easily about 500 - 1000g by swopping the coil for an airRims - the WTB's aren't too bad, not sure about their weight but this upgrade will not be to save weight but rather get less rolling resistance with some better hubs. Could possibly save 400g.I would upgrade the 9 speed to at least a 10 speed but I would go so far as to gooi a 3 x 10 on it for more range. This won't make the bike lighter, maybe add 20g.Lastly, get yourself a good saddle and bib. The stock standard saddles either has waaaaay too much flex or they're just waaaaay too hard.
Long Wheel Base Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 GT FTW. Quite a few guys ride gravel bikes for that race so definitely HT.
Dirkitech Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 Is that my options? Isn't there a third option? Something like - do not enter the race at all . But on a serious note: Definitely not the trail bike, the 140mm will feel like you're riding on a cooked noodle (all squishy and soft) - you will lose quite a bit of power over the distance and you'll be slower than on the HT. The GT will be quick but it is on the heavy side. You could easily drop about +/-2kg's on it if you're willing to throw some cash in its direction . This would however result in you riding it most of the time though . Now before anyone jumps in and say: Prove it, here's a list of sure fire weight savers off that machine: (I'm being conservative here)Crank - easily 500 - 1000g by upgrading to a hollowtechFork - again easily about 500 - 1000g by swopping the coil for an airRims - the WTB's aren't too bad, not sure about their weight but this upgrade will not be to save weight but rather get less rolling resistance with some better hubs. Could possibly save 400g.I would upgrade the 9 speed to at least a 10 speed but I would go so far as to gooi a 3 x 10 on it for more range. This won't make the bike lighter, maybe add 20g.Lastly, get yourself a good saddle and bib. The stock standard saddles either has waaaaay too much flex or they're just waaaaay too hard. Correct me if I'm wrong please, but in what regard is changing a current 22/32/44 and 11-34 to a fairly standard 2x10 an upgrade? Besides maybe dropping a tiny bit of weight and maybe convenience of less gear ranges on many flat surfaces, I can't think of anything making it significantly better.I ran Sheldon Brown's calculator comparing it to a 24/38 and 11-36 setup, the fastest range drops significantly (8.7 9 speed vs 7.5 10 speed) and slowest ranges stay exactly the same (4.8 each).
Jewbacca Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 If the elevation is roughly 1000m over 167km, then weight is going to mean almost nothing. That is pancake flat. Pick the one with the least rolling resistance and the most comfortable outcome for your posterior. If you aren't there to compete, comfort trumps anything else.
'Kaze Pete Posted January 29, 2019 Posted January 29, 2019 Real men ride hardtails steel single speeds with rigid, non-carbon forks
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