Max Headroom Posted February 19, 2019 Share I agree with most comments - and think you need a goatlink (or rapid) to maintain good shifting.Turning in the B-screw works in most cases where you fit a larger cassette, BUT it moves the dérailleur further away from the other sprockets - so, it reduces the number of teeth engaged by the bottom gears (11 etc) So, these tend to wear out sooner, and worse, the chain jumps under pressure (standing pedalling etc.) Very irritating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share I went from a 1x10 shimano bike (36T front and 11/42 sunrace) to a SRAM 1x11 system (34T front and 10/42 rear). While the 1x10 system works perfectly, the shifting is nowhere near as smooth as the 11 speed. The 11 speed was designed as a 1x system, where as the 10 speed was decided to run 2x. Of course, the 11 speed components are generally more expensive and if you go for a SRAM cassette with larger range, you then have the additional cost of the XD driver. Hi Schnavel, Thx for the reply, "works perfectly" is what I want to hear ;-) However what is the possibility that the "smother shifting" is due to SRAM components, and not so much the speed setup. Ie. comparing a 10sp and 11sp Shimano would probably yield more accurate results, however even here the shifters and mech will still differ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share This makes sense .I have a sram 1 x 10 that works fine and also shimano 1 x 11 .However i still run a 2 x 10 XT and will stick to that .It just works so well i don,t want to mess with it .1 x anything is not the ultimate .Shimano 2 x 11 was still the best gear setup i have ridden to date .Except for eagle ,all the 1 x setups wear the small cogs to fast imo I agree, a 2x setup is sort of the "best of both worlds" but there are many time on the trails that I find myself feeling like a teenager learning to drive a stickshift...struggling to get the right gear between front chainrings and cassette. Yes, I suppose there would be time when one "spins out" on flats/commuting to the trails...but do you honestly think the 1x setup wears the smaller cogs out quicker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velouria Posted February 19, 2019 Share I agree, a 2x setup is sort of the "best of both worlds" but there are many time on the trails that I find myself feeling like a teenager learning to drive a stickshift...struggling to get the right gear between front chainrings and cassette. Yes, I suppose there would be time when one "spins out" on flats/commuting to the trails...but do you honestly think the 1x setup wears the smaller cogs out quicker?I solve the spinning out problem by going for a 9-46 at the back, 38-28 at the front. And with the e*thirteen cassette, you can replace half of it at a time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share 32t ovalSunrace 11-46 1x10Shimano xtMuch nicer than my sram setups Oval... I have been looking at those.Supposedly (in theory) 1 32T oval would be a 30 on the narrow side, and a 34T on the broader side. I have a 32T round chainring lying in box that I got as part of a deal...so my plan is to get the 11-46T cassette, put it on and see what happens. I am sure I will miss my 22 chainring with 42 cog at the back (can you say GRANNY!) but the legs would just need to work a bit harder ;-) On that note, are my calculations of gear ratio accurate below, and how accurate do theory and practice meet up with each other on this? 42 (back) ÷ 22 (front) = 1.9 (ratio)46 (back) ÷ 32 (front) = 1.4 (ratio) How much difference will this 0.5 make / or how bad will I feel it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share I solve the spinning out problem by going for a 9-46 at the back, 38-28 at the front. And with the e*thirteen cassette, you can replace half of it at a time Make sense, but at >R3500 for a 9-46T cassette?!That is serious over capitalizing on my 2014 Spez Rockhopper Hardtail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velouria Posted February 19, 2019 Share Make sense, but at >R3500 for a 9-46T cassette?!That is serious over capitalizing on my 2014 Spez Rockhopper Hardtail.I've yet to replace the cassette (or parts of it) after 2 years of riding... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynejG Posted February 19, 2019 Share Oval... I have been looking at those.Supposedly (in theory) 1 32T oval would be a 30 on the narrow side, and a 34T on the broader side. I have a 32T round chainring lying in box that I got as part of a deal...so my plan is to get the 11-46T cassette, put it on and see what happens. I am sure I will miss my 22 chainring with 42 cog at the back (can you say GRANNY!) but the legs would just need to work a bit harder ;-) On that note, are my calculations of gear ratio accurate below, and how accurate do theory and practice meet up with each other on this? 42 (back) ÷ 22 (front) = 1.9 (ratio)46 (back) ÷ 32 (front) = 1.4 (ratio) How much difference will this 0.5 make / or how bad will I feel it?The ratios are normally worked out front chainring teeth divided by rear sprocket teeth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy Gordo Posted February 19, 2019 Share Oval... I have been looking at those.Supposedly (in theory) 1 32T oval would be a 30 on the narrow side, and a 34T on the broader side. I have a 32T round chainring lying in box that I got as part of a deal...so my plan is to get the 11-46T cassette, put it on and see what happens. I am sure I will miss my 22 chainring with 42 cog at the back (can you say GRANNY!) but the legs would just need to work a bit harder ;-) On that note, are my calculations of gear ratio accurate below, and how accurate do theory and practice meet up with each other on this? 42 (back) ÷ 22 (front) = 1.9 (ratio)46 (back) ÷ 32 (front) = 1.4 (ratio) How much difference will this 0.5 make / or how bad will I feel it?I went from a 2x10 - 11/42, 27/38t to a 1x10 11/46, 32t oval. Not much difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 19, 2019 Share Oval... I have been looking at those.Supposedly (in theory) 1 32T oval would be a 30 on the narrow side, and a 34T on the broader side. I have a 32T round chainring lying in box that I got as part of a deal...so my plan is to get the 11-46T cassette, put it on and see what happens. I am sure I will miss my 22 chainring with 42 cog at the back (can you say GRANNY!) but the legs would just need to work a bit harder ;-) On that note, are my calculations of gear ratio accurate below, and how accurate do theory and practice meet up with each other on this? 42 (back) ÷ 22 (front) = 1.9 (ratio)46 (back) ÷ 32 (front) = 1.4 (ratio) How much difference will this 0.5 make / or how bad will I feel it?that's marketing BS. A 32t chainring is still a 32t chainring. It's just that a slightly higher amount of teeth are found on the "power" stroke. But it's still a 32t and for a given cadence will return exactly the same speed on both the oval and round. Oval will just feel different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share I've yet to replace the cassette (or parts of it) after 2 years of riding... Good investment then...and I will keep in mind for the next time.For now, minimal cost with maximum/optimal benefit. PS> Another reason for going 1x is so that I can put the dropper post lever on the left thumb.It makes a world of difference on my XXL 23" frame when going down steep descents. Lever is currently above the bars, above the right shifter...so between finding the right gear and operating the dropper...things get a little busy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share The ratios are normally worked out front chainring teeth divided by rear sprocket teeth. Oops, that is very important. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share that's marketing BS. A 32t chainring is still a 32t chainring. It's just that a slightly higher amount of teeth are found on the "power" stroke. But it's still a 32t and for a given cadence will return exactly the same speed on both the oval and round. Oval will just feel different. Thanks for clarifying (or explaining) in Lehmans terms ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PjT Posted February 19, 2019 Share I went from a 2x10 - 11/42, 27/38t to a 1x10 11/46, 32t oval. Not much difference. Cool. And that is the Sunrace 11-416T - right? You mentioned you have Shimano XT. Is that with M780 shifters? Pondering if I should also swap the Deore (M6000) for XT 10ps shifter.Will it make world of difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schnavel Posted February 19, 2019 Share Hi Schnavel, Thx for the reply, "works perfectly" is what I want to hear ;-) However what is the possibility that the "smother shifting" is due to SRAM components, and not so much the speed setup. Ie. comparing a 10sp and 11sp Shimano would probably yield more accurate results, however even here the shifters and mech will still differ? I haven't personally run a 1x11 shimano setup, but I have mates with that setup and it is without a doubt smoother in terms of shifting when compared to 1x10. However, as I mentioned before, the 1x10 will definitely work and it will be a lot cheaper to install the "conversion", instead of upgrading to a new drive train. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy Gordo Posted February 19, 2019 Share http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#26I1I1I like this as you can get side by side comparison even with wheel size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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