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Gravel Bike Self Build


Sbloomer

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  • 1 month later...

So, i'm making progress finding all the bits.

 

The frame came back from powdercoating today, and I got my tyres yesterday.

 

Still lots to do.  The BB is a mismatch with the frame, and I'm still waiting for my fork, which arrived at CapeMail on the 6th May, and notices have gone quiet since.

 

Before

post-50868-0-17263200-1558610737_thumb.jpg

 

Frame was a victim of chain suck

post-50868-0-25527900-1558610764_thumb.jpg

 

After P/C

post-50868-0-42200400-1558610805_thumb.jpg

 

Love the FARR tyres

post-50868-0-60201500-1558610833_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sbloomer
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I don’t know if it’s been mentioned already but when using a MTB frame to create a drop-bar monster cross the new geometry and angle of the seatpost have to be taken into consideration.

Just a few cm drop of the steerer tube when fitting a new (shorter) fork will influence your saddle position vs your bottom bracket.

You might need to get a proper setback seatpost to compensate, and your bike will feel twitchy if the steerer tube angle is too high.

 

From personal experience

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  • 3 weeks later...

Given the difficulty in finding a front derailleur that works with my frame, a question on perhaps just using a 1x configuration.  The rear cassette is a 11-36.  The front is a 120bcd spider.  The lowest chainring I can go on this is a 36 (currently 39).

 

So what am I losing on just dropping the smallest chainring and going from a 39 to 36 other than a little speed on the flats.  Given that I'm not going to be doing the really steep climbs found on the trails and I hardly use the biggest 3 sprockets on my 11-50 equipped Trance, I'm not sure I need anything more?

 

I see many gravel bikes are equipped with 11-42 at the back and 42T at the front.  My 36/36 idea will be the same on the climbs if a tad slower on the flats.

 

What else should I consider if I go this route?  Do I need spacers to get the chainring further inboard?

 

I suppose I should just give it a try and see what works :)

Edited by Sbloomer
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thing is, that would probably need a chain guide in 1x  if you don't want to risk a chain drop on the the more bumpy stuff since it is not a N/W ring.

 

Also, those 120 bcd rings from the usuals like wolftooth etc are crazy expensive....like 1-1.5k ish just for a ring....thats almost enough to just get a whole new crankset in something a bit more aftermarket-ring friendly..like SLX m7000 or something. or even the Lyne ones. Direct mount or 96/104 bcd will open your options for rings infinitely. 

 

the cheapest solution to your current problem-  if you would just like to try the 39T up front without front mech - would be to get one of those chain guides that mimic front mech's - imo.

You could also get one of those "goatlink/roadlink hanger" things that effectively extends your rear derailleur's range and then get a wider range cassette from sunrace. They make all sorts of funny sizes/ranges, 11-42 even in 9 speed etc.

 

looks good so far

 

EDIT:

 

bbb also makes this to increase your front mech choices:

https://bbbcycling.com/en_en/bsp-90-shiftfix

 

fouriers chain guide:

https://www.cyclingstuff.co.za/shop/fouriers-chain-guide-seat-tube-clamp/

 

derailleur range extender

https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-derailleur-hanger-extender/

Edited by morneS555
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  • 3 weeks later...

Its done! 

 

I took it out for a spin.  Goes nicely.  I haven't ridden a rigid bike for many years, so it's going to take a while to get used to.

 

 

 

Awesomenesses!  :thumbup:  :thumbup:

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That Bianchi is looking GREAT!

Sorry for the hijack Sbloomer-

I'm running a XT 2x10 on my gravel build Scott. What would the ideal groupset update be?

 

1x10 or 1x11?

 

Thinking that a 11-46 1x11 would be okay when fitted to a 34 front?

 

Thanks in advance guys

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That Bianchi is looking GREAT!

Sorry for the hijack Sbloomer-

I'm running a XT 2x10 on my gravel build Scott. What would the ideal groupset update be?

 

1x10 or 1x11?

 

Thinking that a 11-46 1x11 would be okay when fitted to a 34 front?

 

Thanks in advance guys

I ran a 11-46 with 34t (1x11), changed to 36t and still only use the bottom half of the cassette.

For a gravel specific build I'd say go for a 36t

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