My bikes rubbing me the wrong way

[droo]

I'd call wheel or freehub bearing or a broken axle.

 

Strip the rear hub properly and see what's going on in there.

[Psyrax]

Have you checked if the frame is cracked/broken? I had the same issue and it took me a while to see that the frame is broken just in front of the hanger on the chain stay. Could not see it while the bike is in the stand. Only when the frame had some weight on.

[Traveler]

I am also leaning towards an issue in the rear hub. Likely bearings.

[Wannabe]

how is the bearings in the wheel?

 

Wheel fastened properly?  

 

How old is the sealant? 

 

I'm still struggling to understand how this can contribute to the problem in any way, shape or form. 

Please explain in easy words that I will understand. 

[eddy]

I'm still struggling to understand how this can contribute to the problem in any way, shape or form. 

Please explain in easy words that I will understand.

 

The OP is complaining about a vibration, which can be attributed to an unbalanced wheel which in turn can be caused by sealant which has solidified in one part of the wheel creating a heavy spot=>unbalanced wheel=>vibration. QED

[madmarc]

Sounds like a drive train problem

 

Check your BB - maybe bearings are shot, worn & moved

Check your chainline and make sure the chain isn't rubbing on the FD cage, also the alignment of the FD against your chainring

Check RD pulleys for wear on the teeth and bearings

Check tightness of your RD

Check that your RD hanger is not bent

Check the RD cage is not bent

Check the upper and lower limit stops are lined up with the cassette.

Check your B screw is set properly make sure the pulleys aren't making contact with the cassette sprockets.

Check the mounting and tightness of your cassette

Check the chain length - Too long ? - Too short ?

[Quagga]

The OP is complaining about a vibration, which can be attributed to an unbalanced wheel which in turn can be caused by sealant which has solidified in one part of the wheel creating a heavy spot=>unbalanced wheel=>vibration. QED

But he also said that the bike is smooth on the stand and only does it under power

[eddy]

But he also said that the bike is smooth on the stand and only does it under power

 

This is true, and it is unlikely to have been the cause in this case but the question I answered was how sealant could cause a vibration.

It can and people ought to be aware of it

[Leon O]

I'm going for a bearing/ worn axle issue as well. Pit marks on the bearing or axle can cause havoc.

In free wheeling on a stand, there is no load to cause friction on a bearing. Loaded, it simply amplifies the problem.

[ChrisF]

I'm still struggling to understand how this can contribute to the problem in any way, shape or form. 

Please explain in easy words that I will understand. 

 

The Mongoose we are revamping stood for a long while ... the slime hardened in one spot ....

 

even on the workshop stand the tire always stops with this "lump" at the bottom.  Turn the tire, let go, and it returns with this lump to the bottom.

 

 

I can only imagine what this out of balance must feel like at any speed ....

 

 

PS - as soon as Maritz is tall enough to ride this bike we will address this ... dont want to give new slime time to do the same ....

[Beard]

Okay... So just an update... Not resolved yet but getting there.

 

-Cleaned the drive train and inspected of any damage, wayward wires or cables... all good.

- Rear derailleur is securely fixed with no play.

- Inspected the frame under load and off... no damage or cracks

- Tyre sealant is fresh BUT perhaps I was a bit liberal with more than the 60ml required... will drain that over the weekend.

 

Im thinking the general consensus of the rear hub bearings might be spot on. However I came unstuck last night as I currently dont have the right tools to service the hub as well as having a very sick kid to look after last night means I might only be able to get at the rear hub this weekend.

 

I really appreciate all your input and I hope to get to the bottom of it! Ive also decided that its worth my while to learn to try fix and service this myself so Im investing in some additional tools. My budget is limited so I cant splash out on expensive tools (or regular trips to my LBS to fix every noise) . I looked on CWC for the individual items required for servicing my rear hub and bottom bracket while im at it and it came to about R1200 ... then I saw this set which has pretty much the same things with a few extra tools but half the price... For the more experienced of you with tools, am I going to regret getting the cheap set?

 

https://www.takealot.com/multi-function-bicycle-repair-tool-kit/PLID50067197

[ABrooks]

Suggestion: can you perhaps borrow a wheel from someone and see if the issue persists, if not you know it's the wheel without having to tear it apart now. 

[RobertWhitehead]

I would also go with something on the back like the freewheel / hub / bearings, the page was not found on the Takealot link but my experience with tools is simple: You kinda get what you pay for  . You don't need to buy something like Parktool but, what I do, say for arguments sake I want to work on the back wheel and or cassette, I then go out and buy the tools needed for that specific job. Next time when I decide to do something else on the bike I then buy that specific tool, that way I spread the expense over a period of time rather than just buying rubbish tools that's not going to last    

[ChrisF]

I h

 

I would also go with something on the back like the freewheel / hub / bearings, the page was not found on the Takealot link but my experience with tools is simple: You kinda get what you pay for  . You don't need to buy something like Parktool but, what I do, say for arguments sake I want to work on the back wheel and or cassette, I then go out and buy the tools needed for that specific job. Next time when I decide to do something else on the bike I then buy that specific tool, that way I spread the expense over a period of time rather than just buying rubbish tools that's not going to last    

 

I have acquired a couple of "Pro" tools, buying as the projects require it ...  The odd ParkTool as well.  Though the "Pro" brand seems perfectly fine for those of us that dont use these tools daily.

[RobertWhitehead]

Hundreds - one very seldom need the whole tool box when something goes wrong. The most of the time I only need a 5mm Allenkey and the torque wrench  . I've learnt in the past that the moment I start getting stuff like the grinder and or a hammer that I'm doing something wrong   

 

 

I h

 

 

I have acquired a couple of "Pro" tools, buying as the projects require it ...  The odd ParkTool as well.  Though the "Pro" brand seems perfectly fine for those of us that dont use these tools daily.

[ChrisF]

Hundreds - one very seldom need the whole tool box when something goes wrong. The most of the time I only need a 5mm Allenkey and the torque wrench  . I've learnt in the past that the moment I start getting stuff like the grinder and or a hammer that I'm doing something wrong   

 

the bigger the problem .. the bigger the hammer ....