Jump to content

2x10 deore or 1x11 slx


CtnSmith

Recommended Posts

Hi guys... Following on from my thread on hardtail vs dual,I am considering saving up till I can afford to spend a little more and get a decent dual. I'm considering in the meantime to change my ex 3x8 as it needs to be replaced.I know this topic has been posted before and the responses lean towards a 1x option. My concern is that I've been having knee issues since I trained for W2W a few years back and don't feel like loosing the granny gear and struggling on the 1x up any climbs which may put further strain on the knees. The 1x option is 32 front 11x46 back. What concerns me is the 2 x option is more expensive and it's a groupset below the slx(if I'm correct?).... Keen to hear your thoughts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

There was a similar topic last week. Perhaps search for it.

But also had a knee issue. On a 29er, ended up going for 28 front and 11x46 Sunrace cassette on the back. XT 11 speed that one can find on special quite often. I can more or less get up anything with 28x46 and to be honest, rarely run out of gearing on the downs. But most of my downs are single track, not long farm roads. But it worked well for Berg n Bush

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys... Following on from my thread on hardtail vs dual,I am considering saving up till I can afford to spend a little more and get a decent dual. I'm considering in the meantime to change my ex 3x8 as it needs to be replaced.I know this topic has been posted before and the responses lean towards a 1x option. My concern is that I've been having knee issues since I trained for W2W a few years back and don't feel like loosing the granny gear and struggling on the 1x up any climbs which may put further strain on the knees. The 1x option is 32 front 11x46 back. What concerns me is the 2 x option is more expensive and it's a groupset below the slx(if I'm correct?).... Keen to hear your thoughts

First thing you need to look at is the gear ratios offered by 2x10 vs 1x11, as there are so many different combinations it can get confusing (or misleading). 2x10 will give you a few extra options in between each gear, compared to the 1x11.

 

2x10 (24/38 - 11/36) versus 1x11 (32 - 11/46). Using a 29x2.3 wheel, 172.5mm cranks and the various cassettes (Sheldon Brown website gives all the options to calculate the options).

post-1372-0-25329500-1559062450.pngpost-1372-0-07775200-1559062467.pngpost-1372-0-24002800-1559062752.png

 

As you can see, the meters development (the distance that the bicycle moves with each revolution of the pedals) is the same for 24x36 as it is for 32x46... 1.6m). You do lose the distance on the top end, i.e. 38x11 vs 32x11. That can be partially be overcome by opting for an oval chainring (or so I am told).

 

By going for a 34x50 (Sunrace 11-50 cassette), the granny is the same (1.6m) while the top end changes to 7.1m (still 0.9 below the 38x11 option on the 2x10, but better than the 1x11 using a 32T chainring. Obviously if you stay with a 32x then you get down to 1.5m rollout.

 

I'm going from a 3x9 (44-32-22, 12-34), on a 26x2.125 tires, 172.5mm cranks to a 1x11 on a 29er. The development shows below - but I hardly ever rode in the 22 chainring, except on really steep stuff. The 22x34 was too easy and found I need to put more weight over the front wheel to keep momentum. 

post-1372-0-03320000-1559063161.png

 

In terms of your knees - make sure your bike is setup (properly) - your frame size, saddle height/position and cleat position over the pedal spindle also has a big impact on your knees. Reach, stem length and bar width will affect your back, neck, wrists and fingers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First thing you need to look at is the gear ratios offered by 2x10 vs 1x11, as there are so many different combinations it can get confusing (or misleading). 2x10 will give you a few extra options in between each gear, compared to the 1x11.

 

2x10 (24/38 - 11/36) versus 1x11 (32 - 11/46). Using a 29x2.3 wheel, 172.5mm cranks and the various cassettes (Sheldon Brown website gives all the options to calculate the options).

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2019-05-28 at 6.51.31 PM.pngattachicon.gifScreen Shot 2019-05-28 at 6.52.14 PM.pngattachicon.gifScreen Shot 2019-05-28 at 6.58.48 PM.png

 

As you can see, the meters development (the distance that the bicycle moves with each revolution of the pedals) is the same for 24x36 as it is for 32x46... 1.6m). You do lose the distance on the top end, i.e. 38x11 vs 32x11. That can be partially be overcome by opting for an oval chainring (or so I am told).

 

By going for a 34x50 (Sunrace 11-50 cassette), the granny is the same (1.6m) while the top end changes to 7.1m (still 0.9 below the 38x11 option on the 2x10, but better than the 1x11 using a 32T chainring. Obviously if you stay with a 32x then you get down to 1.5m rollout.

 

I'm going from a 3x9 (44-32-22, 12-34), on a 26x2.125 tires, 172.5mm cranks to a 1x11 on a 29er. The development shows below - but I hardly ever rode in the 22 chainring, except on really steep stuff. The 22x34 was too easy and found I need to put more weight over the front wheel to keep momentum. 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2019-05-28 at 7.04.43 PM.png

 

In terms of your knees - make sure your bike is setup (properly) - your frame size, saddle height/position and cleat position over the pedal spindle also has a big impact on your knees. Reach, stem length and bar width will affect your back, neck, wrists and fingers.

I do get the ratio's and even though you move the same distance, the smaller cog on the front makes spinning quicker.

Which means it's easier to stay on the power. Or at least this is how I find it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2x10 everyday.

I've just replaced my Sram NX 1x12 for Shimano SLX 2x11 and its the best thing I've done.

Would have bought 2x10 again, but 2x11 from CWC was R500 more so decided to go that route.

 

Better ratio choices and I never have to worry about what front ring to use for different rides/races. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

coming from a 3x, the cheapest option is to go 1x ... as you spend less on the front ...

 

 

Check the gear ratio you current need up the hills, that suits YOUR knees.  In 2017 that meant I needed a 28 in front and a 50 at the back - SUPER slow up the hills !!  Ride by ride my knees improved.  I now have a 30 in front and a 50 at the back, and use the 50 less and less ...

 

 

As I do tar sections to the trails I do want some top en speed as well, thus the 50-10 range of the Eagle is truly appreciated.  Though the 50-11 of  the NX or even the Sunrace provides a better solution for your budget ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First off, find the reason for your knee problems. If your bike setup is wrong and is causing those knee problems, changing the groupset/rations won't help.

Edited by Longbarn Killer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

coming from a 3x, the cheapest option is to go 1x ... as you spend less on the front ...

 

 

Check the gear ratio you current need up the hills, that suits YOUR knees.  In 2017 that meant I needed a 28 in front and a 50 at the back - SUPER slow up the hills !!  Ride by ride my knees improved.  I now have a 30 in front and a 50 at the back, and use the 50 less and less ...

 

 

As I do tar sections to the trails I do want some top en speed as well, thus the 50-10 range of the Eagle is truly appreciated.  Though the 50-11 of  the NX or even the Sunrace provides a better solution for your budget ...

28 - 50............did you even move forward with that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#26I1I1 - play around with the gear ratios. The closer you can get to the original values you had the less of an impact it will have = less time to get used to it. 

 

But gear are seldom the issue for knee problems (as mentioned before) get the set-up looked at, you could start with this one to see how far off your current set-up is: 

 

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#results

Link to comment
Share on other sites

eat 'dem weatbix and go 1x10 (11-36)? :whistling: 

nobody NEEDS 11-50....they WANT it :D 

 

Can we buy ring side seats when you tell your wife she does not need the 11-speed ...   :whistling: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bike setup was done at 2 well known shops. Ended up going to sports science for them to check it out. Knee pain now is more related to a possible hip issue from football and or running. We still in the process of possible mri scans to figure this out. Haven't had knee pain from cycling for a while. Just don't want to end up with this again if I find I'm having to work too hard on the climbs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 - 50............did you even move forward with that?

 

5km/h ... faster to walk ....  BUT, that IS one way to rehabilitate bust knees.  so just maybe applicable to this thread ....   :whistling:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout