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Stuff you learn(t) the hard way by being your own mechanic


anybody seen george?

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41 minutes ago, MrJacques said:

First time I've seen these clips on a bike. They're meant to stop the bolts backing out.

rear disc brake bracket

Nut lock works even better and looks neater 😁. You normally get those with new brakes 

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3 hours ago, Frosty said:

A rounded bolt and be removed by placing an elastic rubber band in first, then the Allen key, so the elastic is on 4 sides of the hex. Not sure on 2mm, as it’s a bit small, but it works well on 4mm and bigger; also on screw driver heads too.

But I guess “how tight” is another thing causing rounded problems.

If the thing is not mangeld already there's enough of a flange on those to grip it with a waterpump plier and just turn a little then it unscrews by hand.

 

Even a good wiremans plier will do the job

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8 minutes ago, BaGearA said:

If the thing is not mangeld already there's enough of a flange on those to grip it with a waterpump plier and just turn a little then it unscrews by hand.

 

Even a good wiremans plier will do the job

The pinch bolts on cranks, or the bolt on brake levers are recessed, so difficult to get to. Cheesehead type Allen caps would work well.

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1 hour ago, Frosty said:

The pinch bolts on cranks, or the bolt on brake levers are recessed, so difficult to get to. Cheesehead type Allen caps would work well.

2mm screw is shimano 

 

Magura and sram are both torx and recessed 

 

I assumed he was talking about a shimano cap....sorrry

 

 

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2 hours ago, MrJacques said:

First time I've seen these clips on a bike. They're meant to stop the bolts backing out.

rear disc brake bracket

I find this very strange.  Never had these getting loose on me.  If properly torque should not come loose without those.

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While on brakes..................

Fitted new pads, tight fit, genuine Shimano but there is some friction and rubbing while the lever is now like wood, no travel and poor braking. Pistons were cleaned and, as far as I can see, retract fully.  Do I need to release some oil or is there something else going on?

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10 hours ago, mazambaan said:

While on brakes..................

Fitted new pads, tight fit, genuine Shimano but there is some friction and rubbing while the lever is now like wood, no travel and poor braking. Pistons were cleaned and, as far as I can see, retract fully.  Do I need to release some oil or is there something else going on?

when you say "fully" does that mean they pull back flush with the caliper ? 

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13 minutes ago, thebob said:

@MrJacques those clips need to co on the actual caliper bolts. They've got nothing to grip on the adapter bolts and are likely to fall off

IMG_0488.jpeg.56bf7fc88397a67520f7a505d283abe1.jpeg

You're right. It was a photo I found on the internet that shows the clips. I didn't even notice that, lol.

The one on my bike is installed correctly. Thanks :)

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14 hours ago, BaGearA said:

when you say "fully" does that mean they pull back flush with the caliper ? 

Pretty much and I cleaned the pistons as best I could with brake cleaner before easing them back to fit the new pads.

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33 minutes ago, mazambaan said:

Pretty much and I cleaned the pistons as best I could with brake cleaner before easing them back to fit the new pads.

If they retract fully it means the system is not over bled/filled 

 

Something else is going on , first check the rotor without pads in , is there a slight warp ? 

 

The lever pull is kinda normal but it means there's not room for more oil in the reservoir. Take a little oil out ( like 3ml ) will quickly bring back the classic "shimano" free stroke 

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6 hours ago, BaGearA said:

If they retract fully it means the system is not over bled/filled 

 

Something else is going on , first check the rotor without pads in , is there a slight warp ? 

 

The lever pull is kinda normal but it means there's not room for more oil in the reservoir. Take a little oil out ( like 3ml ) will quickly bring back the classic "shimano" free stroke 

3ml? That's like half the fluid in the entire system 🤔

 

Also, when checking for any warpage on the discs, make sure you know what you doing with your hands, otherwise your finger/s will look like mine 🤣

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4 hours ago, Chadvdw67 said:

3ml? That's like half the fluid in the entire system 🤔

 

Also, when checking for any warpage on the discs, make sure you know what you doing with your hands, otherwise your finger/s will look like mine 🤣

kay

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Thanks; I think the 3ml oil removal is the next step - the disc is ok as I reverted back to the old pads; they were worn but not worn out.  As you note with pictures, keep fingy away from disc (and chain).

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1 hour ago, mazambaan said:

Thanks; I think the 3ml oil removal is the next step - the disc is ok as I reverted back to the old pads; they were worn but not worn out.  As you note with pictures, keep fingy away from disc (and chain).

Make the Lever horizontal.

Just Open the Screw if there is too much oil it will p!ss out.

 

https://epicbleedsolutions.com/blogs/articles/5-minute-shimano-mini-bleed

Edited by dasilvarsa
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20 hours ago, Chadvdw67 said:

3ml? That's like half the fluid in the entire system 🤔

 

Also, when checking for any warpage on the discs, make sure you know what you doing with your hands, otherwise your finger/s will look like mine 🤣

Brake hose must be 0.0005 mm long if the system only has 6 ml if fluid in.

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