Stuff you learn(t) the hard way by being your own mechanic

[MrJacques]

51 minutes ago, W@nted said:

So I managed to fix a slipping seatpost (aluminium post in carbon frame).

Tried carbon friction paste, no success using the indicated torque values on the clamp…

 

Then tried the old chalk trick. Works a charm! Basically applied chalk on the clamp area. No slippage.

 

I am however not sure what the long term effect can be on the alu/carbon? 

Never heard of the chalk trick, will keep that in mind.

I think you're risking galvanic corrosion and a stuck seatpost: Can You Put a Carbon Seat Post In an Aluminum Frame? – Brainy Biker

[MrJacques]

First time I've seen these clips on a bike. They're meant to stop the bolts backing out.

[RobertWhitehead]

3 hours ago, Frosty said:

A rounded bolt and be removed by placing an elastic rubber band in first, then the Allen key, so the elastic is on 4 sides of the hex. Not sure on 2mm, as it’s a bit small, but it works well on 4mm and bigger; also on screw driver heads too.

But I guess “how tight” is another thing causing rounded problems.

You know what I use? I've always wanted one and finally got one for a steal: I use a Dremel to cut a groove on any rounded bolt head then simply use a flat 😁. I then chuck the bolt and replace it with a new one 

[RobertWhitehead]

41 minutes ago, MrJacques said:

First time I've seen these clips on a bike. They're meant to stop the bolts backing out.

Nut lock works even better and looks neater 😁. You normally get those with new brakes 

[Frosty]

8 minutes ago, BaGearA said:

If the thing is not mangeld already there's enough of a flange on those to grip it with a waterpump plier and just turn a little then it unscrews by hand.

 

Even a good wiremans plier will do the job

The pinch bolts on cranks, or the bolt on brake levers are recessed, so difficult to get to. Cheesehead type Allen caps would work well.

[TheoG]

2 hours ago, MrJacques said:

First time I've seen these clips on a bike. They're meant to stop the bolts backing out.

I find this very strange.  Never had these getting loose on me.  If properly torque should not come loose without those.

[mazambaan]

While on brakes..................

Fitted new pads, tight fit, genuine Shimano but there is some friction and rubbing while the lever is now like wood, no travel and poor braking. Pistons were cleaned and, as far as I can see, retract fully.  Do I need to release some oil or is there something else going on?

[thebob]

@MrJacques those clips need to co on the actual caliper bolts. They've got nothing to grip on the adapter bolts and are likely to fall off

[MrJacques]

13 minutes ago, thebob said:

@MrJacques those clips need to co on the actual caliper bolts. They've got nothing to grip on the adapter bolts and are likely to fall off

You're right. It was a photo I found on the internet that shows the clips. I didn't even notice that, lol.

The one on my bike is installed correctly. Thanks

[mazambaan]

14 hours ago, BaGearA said:

when you say "fully" does that mean they pull back flush with the caliper ? 

Pretty much and I cleaned the pistons as best I could with brake cleaner before easing them back to fit the new pads.

[Chadvdw67]

6 hours ago, BaGearA said:

If they retract fully it means the system is not over bled/filled 

 

Something else is going on , first check the rotor without pads in , is there a slight warp ? 

 

The lever pull is kinda normal but it means there's not room for more oil in the reservoir. Take a little oil out ( like 3ml ) will quickly bring back the classic "shimano" free stroke 

3ml? That's like half the fluid in the entire system 🤔

 

Also, when checking for any warpage on the discs, make sure you know what you doing with your hands, otherwise your finger/s will look like mine 🤣

[mazambaan]

Thanks; I think the 3ml oil removal is the next step - the disc is ok as I reverted back to the old pads; they were worn but not worn out.  As you note with pictures, keep fingy away from disc (and chain).

[dasilvarsa]

1 hour ago, mazambaan said:

Thanks; I think the 3ml oil removal is the next step - the disc is ok as I reverted back to the old pads; they were worn but not worn out.  As you note with pictures, keep fingy away from disc (and chain).

Make the Lever horizontal.

Just Open the Screw if there is too much oil it will p!ss out.

 

https://epicbleedsolutions.com/blogs/articles/5-minute-shimano-mini-bleed

Edited May 16, 2023 by dasilvarsa

[Wyatt Earp]

20 hours ago, Chadvdw67 said:

3ml? That's like half the fluid in the entire system 🤔

 

Also, when checking for any warpage on the discs, make sure you know what you doing with your hands, otherwise your finger/s will look like mine 🤣

Brake hose must be 0.0005 mm long if the system only has 6 ml if fluid in.

[Dup08]

I messed up and cut a chain (XX1 Eagle) too short due to being a stupid and not leaving it at the lenght I had initially.

Resorted to adding another quick link with a few chain links to get it to the correct lenght again. 
Will this work with two links in close proximity on the chain or should I rather buy a new chain and learn a very expensive lesson?

[MTBRIDER1234]

27 minutes ago, Dup08 said:

I messed up and cut a chain (XX1 Eagle) too short due to being a stupid and not leaving it at the lenght I had initially.

Resorted to adding another quick link with a few chain links to get it to the correct lenght again. 
Will this work with two links in close proximity on the chain or should I rather buy a new chain and learn a very expensive lesson?

I have done it before with no issues. I personally believe that 2 master links in a chain shouldn't cause any problems. I know people who run 3 or more, but at that point, just buy a new chain. 

Just ensure that the masterlinks are new (or very close to new) to ensure they have a tight fit and you don't run the risk of them coming loose. It sounds like it wouldn't happen, but I have seen a few people's chains come loose during heavy chainslap, due to a worn masterlink coming apart. 

If you are unsure whether you can reuse it, check how hard it is to set. If it can be done with very little force, I would replace it. And if it can be done with your hands and no tools... I think it goes without saying that you need a new one.

Also don't cheap out and add new links to the chain by pushing the pins out enough to the point when you can put new links in, then push it back. Because it will break. Guaranteed.