Appropriate chainring size

[DieselnDust]

I generally only go to the 50t on very steep gravel climbs and normally only above half way up

 

 

what is your power to weight ratio?

If above 3.5W/kg you should be able to ride up anything up to a 22% gradient.

If below that drop to a 34T or a 32T chainring and you won't loose out on top speed because I doubt you can ride an mtb at 50km/hr for longer than a minute. If you can whats the real problem because then you're likely >4W/Kg!!!????!!

[Scott roy]

what is your power to weight ratio?

If above 3.5W/kg you should be able to ride up anything up to a 22% gradient.

If below that drop to a 34T or a 32T chainring and you won't loose out on top speed because I doubt you can ride an mtb at 50km/hr for longer than a minute. If you can whats the real problem because then you're likely >4W/Kg!!!????!!

I do about 4.1W/kg

[HenkD]

mmm. The easiest might be to lose a little more weight if possible. 

 

Found it to make the biggest difference on the bike. 

 

This is sound advice

[MudLark]

I do about 4.1W/kg

 

I am having difficulty understanding why this thread exists if your FTP is 4.1 w/kg.

[Scott roy]

This is sound advice

Unfortunately I don’t have any to lose...I am just short of 6 foot and weigh 60kg

[MudLark]

I doubt you can ride an mtb at 50km/hr for longer than a minute. 

 

 

Maybe on a flat but going down Chappies for example is another story! :-)

[Steady Spin]

I generally only go to the 50t on very steep gravel climbs and normally only above half way up

 

So you don't max out your cassette but you want to go smaller on the front? This makes no sense. 

 

You output +4w/kg as well. 

 

The problem is your friends outperform you on the climbs? 

 

I think the solution is to train harder and not to change your components. 

 

What is your training program or do you just ride? 

[Robbie Stewart]

....wait...are you not perhaps Vanzeelism?

[gerriemtb]

....wait...are you not perhaps Vanzeelism?

Can't be, if it was, he would have had the correct gearing

[Scott roy]

So you don't max out your cassette but you want to go smaller on the front? This makes no sense.

 

You output +4w/kg as well.

 

The problem is your friends outperform you on the climbs?

 

I think the solution is to train harder and not to change your components.

 

What is your training program or do you just ride?

I do max it out on steep climbs although I do try my hardest not to. I train with Amric most of the time so we have a program. I’ve been trying since last year to get a climbing strategy that works well with me and I was recommended recently to get a smaller chainring but then I rode a bike with a 34t and yes it climbs a lot better but I felt like I lost my top end

[dasilvarsa]

I do max it out on steep climbs although I do try my hardest not to. I train with Amric most of the time so we have a program. I’ve been trying since last year to get a climbing strategy that works well with me and I was recommended recently to get a smaller chainring but then I rode a bike with a 34t and yes it climbs a lot better but I felt like I lost my top end

Top End Will be Reduced Slightly by 5.5 % approximately. 40 Km/Hr becomes 37,8 Km/Hr approximately

[MudLark]

I do max it out on steep climbs although I do try my hardest not to. I train with Amric most of the time so we have a program. I’ve been trying since last year to get a climbing strategy that works well with me and I was recommended recently to get a smaller chainring but then I rode a bike with a 34t and yes it climbs a lot better but I felt like I lost my top end

 

What's the maximum cadence you happily spin away at? Most people AFAIK can  do 110/115 without too much trouble, which should give you near enough 50km/h on a 34/10 29er setup. For short bursts a lot of folk can usefully do 10 or 15 more - which should give you about 56km/h.

[NotSoBigBen]

What's the maximum cadence you happily spin away at? Most people AFAIK can do 110/115 without too much trouble, which should give you near enough 50km/h on a 34/10 29er setup. For short bursts a lot of folk can usefully do 10 or 15 more - which should give you about 56km/h.

110/115 'without too much trouble' ... Just before that I'm already unscrewing my hips!

[MudLark]

110/115 'without too much trouble' ... Just before that I'm already unscrewing my hips!

 

My normal cadence used to be 80 to 90. My coach got me to shift it to 90 -100 as my normal cadence. My structured workouts require me run 110 to 115 at times; sometimes I unthinkingly spin at 120/5. I can do a bit more than that when necessary. 

 

Pro cyclists on rollers can run as much 250 or more. Watch the vids below.

 

Japanese training school:

 

 

Natie Koch:

 

 

Now watch this guy doing 150. Doesn't seem that fast, does it?

 

 

But maybe the OP's answer lies in a 2x12.

Edited April 10, 2021 by MudLark

[Dicky DQ]

Thanks. That’s what I’ve been wondering if it’s better to climb faster and then go a bit slower on flats or downhills or climb even slower but blast flats

You wont go slower on the flats, unless you are a beast, so what is the issue. Go 34.

[Dicky DQ]

Maybe on a flat but going down Chappies for example is another story! :-)

But that is a road and MTB's don't belong there.