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Hi riders!!

I see some dude on YouTube cleverly machined an 11 speed cassette to fit his 10 speed free-hub. Link below:

He did this by machining out about 1.6mm from the back of the largest cog.

Any thoughts on this? I'm keen to get it done rather than rebuilding three wheel sets.

Alternatively you can also file down the teeth on the free hub. I think the former idea is better.

 

7 minutes ago, Jan-Hendrik Hollenbach said:

I machined a 11 speed cassette successfully only to realize that the largest cog fouls with the hub where the spokes are attached.

This was a Crankbrothers Cobalt Hub.

So just make sure about all your clearances before machining takes place.

Thanks for signing up just to share your first hand experience. ????

2 minutes ago, PappaWatTrap said:

If you get the 11-34 cassette then it will work on a 10 speed freehub body. The spacing might be too far apart for you but then you don't have to machine it. 

GCN mentioned it a while back on one of their videos????

Here is a link confirming it, it will work with the HG-700 cassette as well

 

https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/shimano-ultegra-hg-800-11-34t-cassette-review/

Are you wanting to fit an 11 speed drivetrain? 

Have you tried fitting and 11 speed cassette to see if it fits? What hub is the rear wheel?

Alternatively in 10 speed you get 11-42 https://evobikes.co.za/product/sunrace-ms2s-11-42t-10speed-cassette/

and

11-46 cassettes https://evobikes.co.za/product/cassette-sunrace-ms2-10spd-11-46t/

6 minutes ago, Eddy Gordo said:

Are you wanting to fit an 11 speed drivetrain? 

Have you tried fitting and 11 speed cassette to see if it fits? What hub is the rear wheel?

Alternatively in 10 speed you get 11-42 https://evobikes.co.za/product/sunrace-ms2s-11-42t-10speed-cassette/

and

11-46 cassettes https://evobikes.co.za/product/cassette-sunrace-ms2-10spd-11-46t/

I assume he’s talking about a road wheel. They have different freehub and cassette widths for 10- and 11-speed, and he wouldn’t be going that big on the cassette.

As others have mentioned, you may be lucky with your hub. Push the unmodified cassette on as far as it will go and check the clearance between the big ring and the spokes, hub flange, etc. If it looks like there's more than enough space to lose 1.6 mm, and the cassette has enough meat to maintain structural integrity, then it might be worth doing. You could always install a 1.6 mm spacer with that cassette to use it on an 11-speed freehub later if necessary.

Just now, Nuffy said:

I assume he’s talking about a road wheel. They have different freehub and cassette widths for 10- and 11-speed, and he wouldn’t be going that big on the cassette.

As others have mentioned, you may be lucky with your hub. Push the unmodified cassette on as far as it will go and check the clearance between the big ring and the spokes, hub flange, etc. If it looks like there's more than enough space to lose 1.6 mm, and the cassette has enough meat to maintain structural integrity, then it might be worth doing. You could always install a 1.6 mm spacer with that cassette to use it on an 11-speed freehub later if necessary.

Ahh, ok didnt even think of that????‍♂️

 

It works.  The problem being if you change the wheel to another bike you have to reset the gears and obviously have to adapt any new cassette.  A better option is to machine the free hub if there is sufficient "meat" it.  Ideally 1.8mm but you can get away with a bit less.

If you need a short term solution you can drop one gear off the cassette and ride it as a 10 speed with one redundant click on the shifter. 

1 hour ago, Eddy Gordo said:

Ahh, ok didnt even think of that????‍♂️

 

Had me scratching my head as well ... :)  (maybe I should have watched the video ...)

 

EDIT - quickly scanned the video, towards the end they show it is for a road bike

 

Gone from 8 to 11 on MTB many times

Edited by ChrisF

Northcliff had a lathe for this purpose not long ago. They'd probably do it for you.

But as above the MTB 11s cluster spec will fit a 10s hub - and if that doesn't land up in your spokes then there's a good chance the machined road one won't either. Note however that you can't downsize a road cluster if it is one that has a solid inside sprocket, or if the cluster body is connected directly to the sprocket. Shimano uses an aluminium sprocket carrier that is shaped in such a way that you can take some material off without interfering with the sprockets. 

I have a road cluster on one bike that was dremeled to fit. Also works fine, but at your own risk obviously.

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