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SRAM Guide RS bleeding issues.


Wannabe
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Guys, before I junk them, maybe some clever guy out there can tell me why my Guides does not want to bleed through from the lever or the calipers?

I'm following the SRAM recommendations, using a proper SRAM bleeding kit, etc. 

My Guides started feeling a bit snatchy and spongy, and I thought a bleed might be in order. Following the instructions to a T, it does not allow fluid through from either the Caliper or the Lever end. It is rock solid, no matter how hard I press on the syringes.

It resulted in my brake pads having no travel at all, and the lever is soft. Out of desperation I opened up all the bleed ports and drained as much of the fluid out as possible, hoping that a fresh start might remedy it, but alas, no such luck. Still no fluid going through from either side.

PLEASE HELP ME BEFORE I USE THE 10 POUND HAMMER.  

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Might sounds silly but are you sure that you are bleeding the lever and it's matching caliper?

I have once before had an interesting situation where I could not understand why my front lever would not bleed when I had the other syringe connected to the rear caliper. 🤪

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Quite sure I have the correct lever and caliper, I mean I had them both removed and stood with them in my hands. No way of mixing them up.

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54 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:

You may need to replace the seals on the levers. I know the seal kits are quite expensive (and stock may still be an issue) but it does sort out the issue. 

These seals were replaced last year, and the bike was not used much since then (I've been very lazy this year, less than 2000km done on road bike and Mtb)

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8 minutes ago, Wannabe said:

These seals were replaced last year, and the bike was not used much since then (I've been very lazy this year, less than 2000km done on road bike and Mtb)

If I have a look at the mechanics of hydraulic brakes (I have added a schematic to try and explain my thoughts): On both the caliper as well as lever you have seals. Now if you pull the lever and there's no movement on the caliper then you have a leak at either the lever side or the caliper side. Fluid is pushing over the seals and my money is on the lever side rather than the caliper  

2017-2019-guide-rs-and-r-service-manual.pdf

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36 minutes ago, copperhead said:

New bike day. You're welcome!! 😑

That's the best suggestion to date. 

Luckily I have a backup brake set I fitted in the meantime. (Shimano XT's) 🤭

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5 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:

I think it needs to become the "main set" 😁

I hear you, just struggling to get used to the "on/off" feel of the Xt's. The Guides is is a lot more progressive, I find it easier to modulate on downhills en switchbacks. 

 

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12 hours ago, Wannabe said:

That's the best suggestion to date. 

Luckily I have a backup brake set I fitted in the meantime. (Shimano XT's) 🤭

I was gonna say XT's are the business. I would run them. Have a lekka day. Next time I promise to be more useful 😅

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Pretty sure you've missed something which is putting a spanner in the works. Guides bleed super easy with the correct bleed kit and if you follow the SRAM instructions fully. I found the Guides I had on my Trance 29 easy to look after with plenty of power and modulation even compared to the new XT four pots I have on my Spark

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Been in the market for 4 pot brakes these last 2 weeks, and even though I currently have guides on dual sus (without issues thus far, knock on wood)I was researching various options formula, magura, sram and shimano for my hardtail.

Overall sram seems to have the most issues of sticky pistons, seized pistons, bleed issues etc.

Or could be that there are alot more sram guides being sold than the rest, doubt more than shimano xt 4 pots tho.

 

Anyways I decided on Magura 4 pots,  let's hope they are good and reliable.

 

OP keep us posted on the solution 

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