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Gx 12spd


Matt006

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22 minutes ago, Steady Spin said:

3 different cassettes. Same issue. 

Thats great, but just check for burrs, it is a very common thing on the GX cassettes, of you are happy to live with the ticking then fine, but it literally takes 5 minutes to check if they have burrs.....

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5 minutes ago, Chadvdw67 said:

Thats great, but just check for burrs, it is a very common thing on the GX cassettes, of you are happy to live with the ticking then fine, but it literally takes 5 minutes to check if they have burrs.....

👌

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8 hours ago, DieselnDust said:

Most problems are due to shitty cables and housing. I tend to exclusively use Jagwire or Shimano Sp41 housing with the Jagwire Pro Shift Slick cables. 
i used to opt for the SRAM alloy housing end caps but realised these need to be replaced often because once the rubber boot seal wears the cable rubs the alloy end cap and the shifting goes to a ball of crap. I’ve gone back to the Jagwire or Shimano plastic end caps which seem to last longer but so have a settling period an s do t provide as crisp a shift as the alloy end caps.

nealry every GX or NX drivetrain I’ve troubleshot it’s been the housing or end caps or a kink in the cable 

mechanically the GX derailleurs work just fine. Even NX is trouble free if you apply loctite to the pulley wheel axle bolts k ok r just check them regularly 

all the more reason for AXS GX😁

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1 hour ago, Steady Spin said:

3 different cassettes. Same issue. 

Can you post a pic of the bike with close ups of cable routing. All, are you setting the B screw while you’re sat in the bike? Obviously you will need someone else who knows what they’re doing to turn the screw….

1 hour ago, Steady Spin said:

GX is just peachy. Running the new Lunar with zero issues. 

I have however given up completely on smooth shifts with my Evil. No amount of B screw tweaking sorts out the issue with middle of the cassette ticks and missed shifts. I think it is just what it is and I'll live with it.

Did it with Shimano XT/XTR as well...

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mid cassette is my happy place. it's where everything feels smooth and quiet and most like a SS bike. If mine ticked and clicked and struggled to go up or down from there...i don't know. That sounds weird..it's 'usually' the other way around (top or bottom casette) if the screws are all jacked up. Sure nothing (read hanger) is bent? Sounds like an alignment issue if it's crappy mid cassette. 

 

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I've tried setting the b-screw at sag, extended, and fully compressed. 

Hanger is 100% straight. I have the alignment tool. 

Cable routing could be the culprit... It is one continuous housing running externally. Short section in the seat stay that is internal. Using the fancy Jagwire housing and cables.

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4 minutes ago, Steady Spin said:

I've tried setting the b-screw at sag, extended, and fully compressed. 

Hanger is 100% straight. I have the alignment tool. 

Cable routing could be the culprit... It is one continuous housing running externally. Short section in the seat stay that is internal. Using the fancy Jagwire housing and cables.

Hey Steady, what wear is your chain on and roughly how many km's on the drive? Just sometimes people (including me) forget to check chain wear then go chasing all the screws when their shifting is crap.

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10 hours ago, MTBRIDER1234 said:

Pretty sure the mounting bolt play still occurs with the new GX. But someone correct me if I am wrong please, also surely a cassette is durable enough to be ridden normally, unless you either ride from really long/ride every day or you are on a super tight budget, I can't see the point of not using the higher gears. They are after all there for a reason I guess

Haven't experienced any issues with the mounting bolt *yet* haha I am probably 300km in on the new drive train.

As for the wear on the cassette - the guy in the shop explained I wasn't using the full range of the cassette, of the available 12 speeds I was using 5 of the higher gears. He said this was where cassettes wear quicker (true or not, I have no idea perhaps someone can enlighten us all) so he recommended I get a bigger chain ring so I could utilise a larger range of the cassette and thus wear it down evenly.

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1 minute ago, MTBRIDER1234 said:

Hey Steady, what wear is your chain on and roughly how many km's on the drive? Just sometimes people (including me) forget to check chain wear then go chasing all the screws when their shifting is crap.

Cassette replaced in January. Maybe 500km on it. 
Chain is not even close to 0.25 yet.
Derailleur was installed in March.
Cable and housing replaced in April somewhere.

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9 minutes ago, Steady Spin said:

Cassette replaced in January. Maybe 500km on it. 
Chain is not even close to 0.25 yet.
Derailleur was installed in March.
Cable and housing replaced in April somewhere.

Ok cool. I wasn't implying that you are unintelligent or anything, just that I have seen many people tell me their 'new drive' (upgraded derailleur and shifter with worn chain) isn't shifting well, then I see the chain is at 0.6 to 0.8. Hope you are able to fix that shifting, as I know just how aggrivating it can be

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I had 0 issues on my previous GX set up, it was event better once it I did the XD driver conversion and had the GX cassette not the NX.

 

New bike has GX AXS... Well boy oh boy I am sold on how well that setup shifts. I was hesitant but now I am sold, I just hope it keeps performing going forward...

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3 minutes ago, dave303e said:

I had 0 issues on my previous GX set up, it was event better once it I did the XD driver conversion and had the GX cassette not the NX.

 

New bike has GX AXS... Well boy oh boy I am sold on how well that setup shifts. I was hesitant but now I am sold, I just hope it keeps performing going forward...

In my opinion, GX AXS is the way to go for electronic drive trains. Great value and when you smash a derailleur it costs 5 grand as opposed to 11 for the XX1 AXS. Only thing I dislike about AXS is the dead shifter feel.

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