How to upgrade your brakes

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

If know how to hold a spanner then it's not that hard... Then again, I am technically minded which helps... that and google... 

Bear in mind that you need to factor in the cost of a bleed kit and mineral oil, if you haven't already got one. 

[rouxtjie]

PS slickjay007

 

You will also need a shimano bleeding kit / mineral oil and a good quality cable cutting tool(sidecutters is not ideal) if you want to do the DIY thing...there should be extra two olives and inserts for this job in the package...make sure they are there if you buy online

Edited May 4, 2016 by rouxtjie

[Edge_Design]

I have no issue buying from the LBS but when the mark-up on the items are almost 30% then i wonder how it is justified. I've watched a few Youtube clips and the installation looked reasonably easy.

 

The only way to learn is to try! The chance of doing serious damage is slim so if you do a little research then you should be good to go. At most they might not be as sharp as you'd like and you get the LBS to bleed them again (maybe you end up needing new hoses and waste a few hundred on the lesson if you're unlucky).

[rouxtjie]

The only way to learn is to try! The chance of doing serious damage is slim so if you do a little research then you should be good to go. At most they might not be as sharp as you'd like and you get the LBS to bleed them again (maybe you end up needing new hoses and waste a few hundred on the lesson if you're unlucky).

Hold on...cutting lines too short, damaging pistons when trying to push them back with wrong tools or worst case damaging the diaphragm(incorrect bleeding) makes them fubar on shimano and is not serviceable. I wouldnt suggest someone do this if they don't have the confidence or right tooling as well as materials + bleeding kit.

 

Its not a rocket science job I agree, but I think its bad advice to say "just try"  

[JXV]

If they are pre-assembled and the hoses not too long then it is a simple bolt on job. But if you need to shorten hoses or route internally through the frame then you'll need to disconnect hose and bleed after.

 

Not sure what you're expecting. M615 to M675 is not going to give a significant performance upgrade unless the old brakes are poked. M615 are good reliable brakes but the SLX brakes will be lighter and a bit more adjustable.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Edited May 5, 2016 by JXV

[slickjay007]

If they are pre-assembled and the hoses not too long then it is a simple bolt on job. But if you need to shorten hoses or route internally through the frame then you'll need to disconnect hose and bleed after.

 

Not sure what you're expecting. M615 to M675 is not going to give a significant performance upgrade unless the old brakes are poked. M615 are good reliable brakes but the SLX brakes will be lighter and a bit more adjustable.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I have routing through the frame to do so thanks for the advice. 

[ZakAttak]

Hold on...cutting lines too short, damaging pistons when trying to push them back with wrong tools or worst case damaging the diaphragm(incorrect bleeding) makes them fubar on shimano and is not serviceable. I wouldnt suggest someone do this if they don't have the confidence or right tooling as well as materials + bleeding kit.

 

Its not a rocket science job I agree, but I think its bad advice to say "just try"  

 

I take it you really stuffed up your first try at this? Me personally, I have taken the brakes apart, have the necessary tooling and put them back together again, heck, I've built my own bikes from the ground up and enjoyed it too...

 

However, I have never needed to bleed brakes and was on the point of bleeding a brakeset when I sold them as is advising the buyer that the brakes needed to be bled...

 

Again, like you said, it's not rocket science, but yet, you still have to try if you have some technical aptitude... 

[porqui]

Rouxtjie!

 

Just do it !!

 

It can be done quite easily !

[Skylark]

DIY... How hard is it to upgrade my Brakes???

 

Hi,

 

So i'm finally looking into upgrading my brakes from the standard Deore (BL-M615) to SLX (M675) and wanted to know should this be done at the LBS or can i do it myself? I've seen complete kits for sale online and was wondering if these are DIY.

 

I've heard that some brakes need bleeding after installing and i'm not a very gifted bicycle technician. Also do i need to change the rotors?

 

Any help will be greatly appreciated...

Why do that, they are identical other than the reach adjuster knob(and adjustable banjos on the callipers) , IDENTICAL, no jokes. Actually even an ungrade to Xt won't get you better brakes, just more bling looking brakes. Stick with the M615 they are the bargain of the century and damn awesome, spend the budget elsewhere, like a dropper post! Edited May 5, 2016 by Skylark

[AlanD]

"Drive home, finish beer"......this makes no sense whatsoever.

 

Should be "Drive home, open beer.....cos you finished the first one before going to LBS ????

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Bear in mind that you need to factor in the cost of a bleed kit and mineral oil, if you haven't already got one.

I have on 2 occasions cut brokenness down to size without needing any bleeding. If you Google it they are well documented.

Done it with a degree and six brakes.

[Skylark]

I have on 2 occasions cut brokenness down to size without needing any bleeding. If you Google it they are well documented.

Done it with a degree and six brakes.

True that, the key is to take the wheel out, pump the brakes so the pads/calliper are pushed out a fair amount(not till they pop out!), then cut the cable carefully so you don't lose to much oil, then put the new olive on and a drop of fluid on the tip of the cable and in the Mc hose attachment hole, tighten hose to mc.

 

Then make the mc level and unscrew the mc reservoir screw(this is to allow the air that may have entered the system some room), push the calliper pistons back in, which if you've been careful will push fluid up the hose and force the air bubble at the cut point into the mc and to the top of the reservoir/out of harms way.

 

Next make sure the calliper pistons are fully pushed in(so when you full the reservoir in the next step you are not overfilling the system, if a piston is pushed out a little then the system will hold 2 much fluid and you can pop the mc seal when you install brand new pads).

 

Last step, top the mc reservoir with fluid and refit the reservoir screw, job done!

 

Works remarkably well, did it for the nth time 2 weeks ago.

Edited May 5, 2016 by Skylark

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

True that, the key is to take the wheel out, pump the brakes so the pads/calliper are pushed out a fair amount(not till they pop out!), then cut the cable carefully so you don't lose to much oil, then put the new olive on and a drop of fluid on the tip of the cable and in the Mc hose attachment hole, tighten hose to mc.

 

Then make the mc level and unscrew the mc reservoir screw(this is to allow the air that may have entered the system some room), push the calliper pistons back in, which if you've been careful will push fluid up the hose and force the air bubble at the cut point into the mc and to the top of the reservoir/out of harms way.

 

Next make sure the calliper pistons are fully pushed in(so when you full the reservoir in the next step you are not overfilling the system, if a piston is pushed out a little then the system will hold 2 much fluid and you can pop the mc seal when you install brand new pads).

 

Last step, top the mc reservoir with fluid and refit the reservoir screw, job done!

 

Works remarkably well, did it for the nth time 2 weeks ago.

Sounds about right, have successfully used the old olive before. That being said, they were both new brakesets.........

Here is the method I used:

http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/shorten-shimano-hoses-without-bleeding/

Edited May 6, 2016 by Steven Knoetze (sk27)

[rouxtjie]

I take it you really stuffed up your first try at this? Me personally, I have taken the brakes apart, have the necessary tooling and put them back together again, heck, I've built my own bikes from the ground up and enjoyed it too...

 

However, I have never needed to bleed brakes and was on the point of bleeding a brakeset when I sold them as is advising the buyer that the brakes needed to be bled...

 

Again, like you said, it's not rocket science, but yet, you still have to try if you have some technical aptitude... 

lol...no actually I didnt, but I have popped a diaphragm before when doing a ghetto bleed so I know how easy it is to make a perfectly working brakeset fubar. If someone doesnt have the tools, know how, materials or someone to show them(youtube makes stuff look easy) I think better advice would be to take it to a lbs...its well worth the money. 

[gerhardsnorbaard]

Great read, pretty much me on every diy experience to date. The guardian wrench-angels do protect the foolish and beer-headed

[ZakAttak]

lol...no actually I didnt, but I have popped a diaphragm before when doing a ghetto bleed so I know how easy it is to make a perfectly working brakeset fubar. If someone doesnt have the tools, know how, materials or someone to show them(youtube makes stuff look easy) I think better advice would be to take it to a lbs...its well worth the money. 

 

Aaah, therein lies the problem.... using the incorrect tools.... and yes you can stuff it up nice and solid without the correct tools... Lesson learnt I hope...