LeTurbo Posted January 13, 2011 Share Just seeing guys in races, etc, there's also a technique issue here. Changing gear when you're standing on the cranks is going to throw your settings and mechanicals out. That's just a flimsy little derailleur trying to move massive amounts of torque around, and it's taking a lot of strain. Ease up on the pedals when you make your change, let the chain settle on the new cog, then power up again. Your settings will last a lot longer, your gear changes will be more pleasant, and there'll be less skipping to a smaller cog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmeyerSS Posted January 25, 2011 Share tthanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breezer Posted January 25, 2011 Share Get SRAM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mojoman Posted January 25, 2011 Share My 2c worth is replace the cables. As I mentioned on the 13th, I replaced the rear derailer cable and since then I have had no issues with sticky shifting or that irritating jumping that goes on when cables are dirty (mine somehow had a kink in it!). Cost me under a R100 (new inner and outer gear cable) and now I have no more urges to toss my bike under a truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted January 25, 2011 Share Try SS ... no fiddly gear shifts and true silent riding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmeyerSS Posted January 25, 2011 Share SS one day when i'm big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted January 25, 2011 Share Check hanger - this is typical bent hanger stuff. Replace cable - do the one piece outer conversion - its easy and you never have to worry about poor shifing due to gungy cables again..Outside chance - rear wheel not aligned properly in dropouts - that puts the casette at the wrong ange to chain. It does happen - had to sort my g/f's shifting and no adjustment would work until I reset the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoffel76 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Problem:my gears keep hunting on the rear cassette. taken my bike to my LBS and had the gears tuned. works well for about 30-40km and then the same problem. as soon as i put power down on the cranks the chain jumps on the rear cassette. I'm having a similar problem, but probably a differnt cause. Maybe someone has an answer for me? I replaced my chain & derailer cable the other day (but not the cassette). On the bike stand everything was shifting sweetly, and riding up and down the road is fine but as soon as I put the power down, the chain 'slips' on the cassette? I put the old chain back on and it works fine! I thought maybe I got the wrong type chain, but it seems identical to the old one. Is that typical of a worn cassette? Any ideas? Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Earp Posted January 25, 2011 Share SS one day when i'm big. We hereby baptise you BIG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Keep Pedaling Posted January 25, 2011 Share I don't mean to be funny but gears generally need adjusting with the barrel adjuster each ride. Do it while on the bike and riding with the barrel adjuster at the shifters. If its slipping under load tighten the adjuster (you can feel which way is tighter) and if it won't drop down nicly then loosen the barrel adjuster. The cables stretches each ride (or cuts into the housing or whatever) - temperature can change the tension too. Learn to use the barrel adjusters and get rid of the messy shifting once and for all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Keep Pedaling Posted January 25, 2011 Share Stoffel - a worn cassette does not cause that. That is cable tension. A worn cassette with cause the shain to slip off the cassette on a pedal stroke as the teeth can't grip the chain properly anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bos Posted January 25, 2011 Share A worn chainring wont cause the problems he's saying he gets. I have had that, but then The gears would skip straight away If you power down. but I wouldnt put it out the equasion straight away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted January 25, 2011 Share ....check that the cable is securely fastened on the jockey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowbee Posted January 25, 2011 Share Luke mentioned technique How much of an impact does "technique" impact on the lifespan of the drivechain components?  Is this also not affected by those shiters that can shift 4 or 5 gears with one click ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassie Posted January 25, 2011 Share Stoffel - a worn cassette does not cause that. That is cable tension. A worn cassette with cause the shain to slip off the cassette on a pedal stroke as the teeth can't grip the chain properly anymore. Dude...I'm not buying this arguement!!PLEASE explain to me what role the cable pays when the shifting has already been done and the rider merely applies torque to the chain???To me this sounds very much like a worn casette!!! Especially when he states that when putting the old chain back on...the problem dissapears... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Break Posted January 25, 2011 Share howzit hubbersany help with the following would be greatly appreciated. Problem:my gears keep hunting on the rear cassette. taken my bike to my LBS and had the gears tuned. works well for about 30-40km and then the same problem. as soon as i put power down on the cranks the chain jumps on the rear cassette. since i have replaced with a brand new:Chain HG-75rear cassette shimano XTrear derailer shimano XT had my gears tuned over and over again. they work for a short time and then start acting up again. getting very annoying now. could it be the shifters or low quality cables. dont know what cable are in at the moment but sute they are entry level. help please, this is ruining my MTB experiance Whenever you replace a cable, derailler, shifters, casing. there is always a settling in period where the casing settle into the components and there is also a slight possibility that the cable itself will stretch a tiny bit (although more likely just the casing settling in). So if your gears keep going over time it is because of this settling in. If you then take it back and the LBS replaces now another part, then it will have to settle in again as it was disassembled. If it were a bent hanger or derailler or failty shifters the problem would most likely be there all the time. My suggestion now that you have replaced the parts is to keep riding it and set the gears yourself by using the little finger adjustment srcew on the derailler. Really easy to do yourself. Keep doing this and it should settle after 3-5 rides. If not then check the derailler is not bent using a drop out alignment tool. If after all this it continues I would suggest a full recable and casing rebuild. But remember, it will still have to settle in after this. Good luck man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now