To Decontaminate Disks Take Disk Off the Wheel
Shield Car Wash Neat and a Nail Brush 15 Minutes per Side
Work The Dirt out of the Holes.
Be Careful Not to bend the Disks.
Do the same to the Pads but Only 2 Minutes.
If the Back Brake Can Lock the Back Wheel on Tar It's Working Good.
A bit more difficult to test the Front (OTB).
2 to 3 Months if you don't have a puncture and air Loss is Minimal. If you have a Puncture or Are Losing air - Immediately - Every Year it is Advisable to Redo the Sealant from Scratch. Tubeless will Tell you if it is "Not Happy" Thorn Puncture that Does Not Seal. (Redo Sealant and Plug Hole) More than 5% Air Pressure Loss per Week (Redo Sealant) Air Pressure Loss During a Ride (Redo Sealant)
Maxxis Ardent 2.40 in Front Maxxis Ardent Race 2.35 Rear or Maxxis Rekon Race 2.40 Rear +- R1400 for Both. Get a Bike Shop to do it 4 You First Time Around. Roughly R2000 Includes Tyres Sealant Valves and Labour. Get a Tubeless Repair Kit -Plugs- and Inserter and a Valve Core Remover. Find Out What Sealant they Put in get a bottle for Top Up. (Top Up At least every 2 Months) Get a good Big Pump for Home and a Good Small Pump to carry. Get a Good Pressure Gauge.
I don't Think that they will last that long. The Edenvale Shop has already closed last December. It was handy for me to buy a cable or Tyre etc. But you always had to barter on price. Otherwise I never had bad Service from them.
Orange Seal Regular uses the Traditional Latex + Ammonia + Various Sizes of Particles + "Top Secret" Formula. It works very well if you Add a New Charge Every 30 Days. Everything U need to know. https://www.treadbikely.com/orange-seal-tubeless-sealant-review/
I'm Also Trying a Sealant That's Supposed to Stay Fluid. (not turn to Porridge) I ride Mixed Road and Gravel Also about 13 Hours a Week (660 Km in February) so my Back Tyres Don't Last that Long and I like Fresh Rubber. I recently did an experiment on an old tyre that still had about 50ml of Stans sealant.(and a lot of porridge inside from topping up). I punctured it with a small star screwdriver rode the bike and it did not seal. (The Latex seems to deactivate after a while so there is fluid inside but it does nothing.) Yes as you state Tubeless requires a lot of expensive maintenance just to keep them inflated and maybe give some puncture protection and a softer ride. I often wonder if it's actually worth it.
Sealant Dries in Air Making that Porridge That You See in the Picture. It's unavoidable with the heat etc etc. I'm Now Trying 200 ml with a new back Tyre. Not going to Top Up. Not Going to Deflate. Just plug punctures from the outside. Gonna See if it lasts the life of the back tyre. Tubeless is actually a Pita but I like the challenge. I've also come to the conclusion that as far as Tubeless is concerned Maxxis is the Best tyres. They actually stay inflated without sealant when Brand New.
Don't Waste my Money on Slide On Grips When Lock on grips are now Available @ Reasonable Prices. Slide on Grips will always give you a problem when you least Expect it.
Setting the Bead on a Brand New Tubeless Tyre. Tyre is Dry Straight out of the Packaging Rim is Clean and Dry. The Tool is a Tyre Liner from Sportsman's Warehouse. Stretch it tight over the tread. You can use any pump even a medium volume Hand Pump works.
It also depends where you live. 20-25 mm Rims work Fine in Gauteng but Would Work Badly in Cape Town. In Cape Town you really need 30-34 mm Rims and the Widest Tyre You can Find. Mud Clearance is not an Issue.
