thebob

Sold the new Scott Spark and replaced it with:

Surely @droo from Stoke Suspension can help?

The oil migrates up to the bushings via splash lubrication action, bottoming has nothing to do with it.

Each to their own. If you find a setup that works for you then go with it. With my setup I only bottom out if I hit something too hard or make a big mistake

Buy a good 6 point socket (Gedore for me) and get the chamfer removed. A good engineering shop should be able to help you out

100% correct. But, do you really need to use all the travel? I usually have 1cm to 2cm unused after a normal ride on my 150mm Pike with my setup as described earlier. If I were you I'd see how many volume spacers you have an try taking one out and setting it to 115PSI. If it feels better, take out another spacer (assuming you have more than one installed). It does take a bit of trial and error, but it is worth it to get there in the end. From trawling the overseas forums, higher pressures and fewer volume spacers offers a more comfortable ride.

So bigger negative air chamber. That means the fork sucks down into its travel a little more than the new one and should be more sensitive off the top. It does mean you might want a bit more air pressure than the suggested chart pressure to keep the midstroke nice and supportive. Maybe 115PSI?

Do you know if you are running the new Debonair spring with the smaller negative spring or the older one with the bigger negative spring?

Used it once as a buyer and once as a seller. Super easy and painless.

I have my Pike working very nicely with the following methodology (start with everything full open): 20% sag Rebound set so the wheel doesn't jump off the floor when doing a big fast compression HSC backed all the way out then one click in LSC at 12 clicks from full closed. I found a nice spot where it help me up under braking, but wasn't too soft Try a xSixx Foamo. Pretty light for the wide single ply version and should help keep the rims in one piece

bike-components from Germany keeps OneUp. Used them several times with the standard 20 euro shipping charge. Your parcel will hit SAPO though and that is when it can go tits up. I've always had my orders from them arrive within a month.

Always had great service from Abloc when I briefly owned a BMC. Hope they land on their feet and best of luck to the new distributor

Shimano don't make floating rotors. The braking surface can't move independently of the spider they are mounted to, unlike the Hope rotors

Try Cogent Industries in Pretoria. Jacques is a Fox agent so should be able to help

I've found the discs that are cut, rather than being pressed are much better. SRAM Centreline, Shimano IceTec and the Giant ones all work will for me. The pressed Shimano ones always left a lot be be desired even with metal pads. Running 200mm Centreline discs front and rear on my Pyga Hyrax with Code RSC brakes and sintered pads. Slows down the bike in a hurry!

But will he be riding in Crocs??

The dynamic seal grease is also specced for the forks. If you use it on the air spring seal it says to put 3ml of fork oil above the air piston. Hence I just stick with the good old Slickoleum

Was my first 947. Thoroughly enjoyed it. I think I might give it a bash again next year

A mass participation event in Joburg, with no reliable public bus or train network and you are surprised? I think the gun should be pointed the other way. From the offramp to my parking slot was less than 10 minutes ????????‍♂️

Good luck everyone! Hoping the weather holds

That does not look right. Check that the seals haven’t been misaligned. The flangeless ones can be pushed in a bit more on one side than another, which would result in a lot of drag.

Even me. The 38c tyres going to keep me comfy all we way

Just got a kit from Nic at Ballistic Bike Armour. R850 and it looks like it will cover all the high risk parts of the bike. Vinyl is nice and beefy as well. Plus he communicates really well.

Don't forget the new Top Fuel!

Getting access to the shock is a small pain if you want to remove it. Cranks must be removed, rear wheel as well. But it is so well protected in there it would only really be necessary when you want to do a shock service, change a volume spacer or if you submerge the bike and want to clean it off. As for adding or removing air, pop off the cover and the air valve is right there. Easy peasy. For me the more annoying issue is the limited dropper insertion. As for looks, go see one in the flesh, it looks like it's from 10 years in the future. Good review below: