Mook

Avalanche Roam carbon

Good quality, BUT you want a better bib for rides in excess of 4 hours. I have been riding Velotex(mostly branded and/or sponsored kit) for 20 years and they are well made(IMO). My brand of choice is Anatomic and lately Ciovita. I have tried Panda, Indola and First Ascent - not impressed given the price tag on these. If you are not on a tight budget, like me, look at Assoss, Giordana, Santini etc. I have seen complaints rise of late over Assoss' quality, but cannot vouch for this.

Good argument @droo 👌 Having scrolled thru this thread yet again, I still cannot find the person who stated that descending on the tops is a good idea. Looks like excessive time in the drops could potentially lead to dyslexia 😵‍💫

Could it perhaps be the effect of gravel biking blowing over into the other dropbar cycling code? Gravelbikers spend >90% on the tops for obvious reasons, and most of them were probably roadies by choice before getting into gravel. My 2 cents

I am no expert on Campy durability or quality, but according to @Paul Ruinaard and @eddy a compagnola group supposedly only lasts 25 years if you ride it once every 8-10 years 😜 I await the lynch mob's fury 🤣🤣

I was also thinking of this route, but please be aware that you will be off the "beaten track" and probably isolated for some time, ie. out of sight from help. These perps are forever seeking out new "retail shopping" areas ..........

Exactly my point @NotSoBigBen If you intend racing the "manne" in gravel races, get yourself a 70k gravel racer. Horses for courses I guess. Just finished my 29er HT monsterX gravel build. I have NO intention of racing anybody AND I can fit any size tyre I wish. To add some perspective in my case - I have ridden a gravel bike, hence I am in a position to appreciate the difference in equipment. The gravel is way too hard on my lower back. You can run 45, 47, 50c tyre pressures only so low before obvious risks surface. The gravelbikes that could accommodate bigger rubber is 1)hens teeth, and/or 2)north of 60k should you have the moolah to buy one.

Oh sock-it man 🤢 Cut off a piece of pool noodle and split down the length. Open the cut and fold over frame where the rubbing occurs. This has been my goto solution for more years than I can remember for my alloy, steel AND carbon frames. Never damaged a frame or cable/hose ever since.

I just got 2 tops from Temu. Material and stitching quality is great. I went for 1 size up from my usual size and the fit is perfect. Consistency might be a problem. I got 2 different colors from the same brand, yet one fits slightly slacker than the other. The zips engage well, but time will tell if the quality holds up over time. For the price ....... absolutely worth it.

Probably not the answer you are looking for, but this sounds a good idea for a bikepacking trip 🤷‍♂️

I have seen the brand name Co-Motion making extensive use of pinion gearboxes, BUT you will have to lay down big ZAR to bring it in from the US.

If you run 'n max 42T at the back with 1x, the 812 will work. If you go bigger you will need a hanger extender, ie. Roadlink. Many that went down this rabbit hole complained about sketchy shifting at times. The above is the primary motivation for going the GRX822 SGS route. No hanger extender required, and your max cassette size is 51T. Despite being a 12 speed RD the shifting with the 11spd lever is flawless. There is currently very little price difference between the GRX 812 and 822. You are also set to migrate to 12 spd by simply upgrading the shifters, and cassette of course.

No problem at all. To be honest my 105's are mechanical. I used Avid BB7 mechanical road calipers and braking is good enough for me.

Just went through the exact same exercise. Unlike you, I used the 11 speed ST5800(105) shifters. Got the bike with a 1x11 XT groupset. The 11 speed STi pull ratio is different from the 11 speed XT RD. My options were 1)Wolf Tooth Tanpan 11, or 2)GRX RD. Problem is that the GRX812 has a 42T max whereas I am running a 46T max cassette. I eventually went for the GRX822 RD which is essentially a 12 speed rear mech. With the Shimano's 11 and 12 speeds having near exact pull ratio's, I got the 822. When I upgrade to 12 speed, the RD will be compatible. Shifting is great with zero issues.

Or TEMU perhaps 🤷‍♂️

I guess their punchline is spot on .............................. You always get something out (note the emphasis on "something" - not money)

Aaaaah ................... the petrochemical engineer story again 🥴

Probably, but I have had this happen with a tyre without any sign of puncture or impact damage. Ammonia based sealants are said to cause delamination to certain rubber compounds. I guess an "autopsy" is the only way to give some idea.

Absolutely true ☝️ Best bike ever is still my '94 26er full rigid steel Gary Fisher. It often hurts BUT the fun is next level.

Carbon Bike Repairs (CBR) in Durbanville. Speak to James Perry

Shwalbe Rick XC or Vittoria Peyote ................ not many faster 29er tyres around

I buy bearings from reputable suppliers like BMG, Bearings International, etc. All bearings have their part numbers pressed into the plastic covers or etched onto the bearing housing. Take your old bearings or the part numbers to these guys and they can sort you out with Timken, SKF, NTN, etc. I have found that your popular sizes are cheaper at the pro's than what you would pay at your LBS, or the large online retailers we are familiar with. Wheelbearings work hardest of all bearings on your bike. Best is to get proper components from bearing specialists. I have successfully done the @Alouette3 trick, but it is risky if you damage the seal or you don't seat it properly when replacing. I would do this on good quality bearings, but not your typical wang-chung brands.

Many "Old Timer MTB Riders" still enjoy riding their 26" steel bikes 👴

Agreed, but I guess there is room for abuse. I was the buyer in my experiences where I would start comms with the seller, he disappears for a day or 3, then simply ignores me or tells me that he had sold the item. Sellers also often sell on the Hub, but does not delete the ad. When enquiring they simply ignore you, or respond a week later with the news that they sold the item. Many would argue that you have to smile, wave, and move on .........................

You are right Chris, Add poor material quality of the towbar, incorrect tyre pressures, worn shocks and lacking driver skills ................................. "there goes my everything"