madmarc

Twist grips on these old MTB were terrible - I tried to fix many of them over the years for the kids in my street without success. Your best bet would be to get a set of 3 X 7 trigger shifters - I assume its Shitmano so these should work https://www.cyclelab.com/product/2016000-gear-shift-mtb-shimano-7-spd-ef500-rapid-fire-3x7?utm_campaign=19000353318&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=&utm_term=&adgroupid=&gclid=CjwKCAiAp7GcBhA0EiwA9U0mtgBs5GGs2zYrDRmOjnJdQjhYbuy3MAv8pQwqMjXZoENckZ8Hs71UVRoCFGcQAvD_BwE Or search for 3 X 7 trigger shifter on TakeAlotOfMyMoney.com Or i'm sure someone on BikeHub has a set laying in their spare box they be willing to donate You probably will need to recable the gears and brakes as well. These old bikes are not worth repairing - I would get her a new entry level bike like a TITAN from Sportsmans for Christmas

Agree - I been doing it for years as long as they can spin at 20 000 rpm on your finger with an airgun driving it - they be good to go for another year.

If there is no play in the headset while rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake on - then I would hazard it's a fork issue. Either where the steerer tube and stanchions press into the CSU or inside the fork itself. Grab the seat tube and slightly lift the back wheel, if there is play or like a bump in the vertical movement, then its rear shock bushes. Make sure the front caliper & rotor are tight. Also check if the noise is not perhaps coming from your front wheel hub. Also try establish the correct bearings for that SCOTT frame and check to ensure they are in fact correct - I got Cane Creak headset bearings from a LBS whore swore blind it was correct - ID/OD were correct but the thickness was not. TREK bottom headset bearings are thicker. Don't believe what LBS tell you, half of them have no clue themselves - just go through each moving part and identify the noise through a process of elimination. Or you could just stop bunny hopping and lifting your front wheel - ride with headphones banging out some Meatloaf - that would also solve the problem.

Hahaha - I had to use this thing for the first time in Uk looking for my Air BnB at first I thought WTF!! is this a joke. But once I got it working and arrived in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wales at my accommodation, which was a cottage in the middle of a farmer's field I realised that no way any other navigation would have got me there. It really works well

And that therein is why i support them. They buyout last years stock from importers looking to make place for new years stock - Solomons retail it at very good prices so its a win win - but dont expect, in most cases, the latest models. I have bought all my MTB's through them and nowhere could I find better prices - in 2012 i purchased a brand new TREK Superfly 10K cheaper than Cyclelab for exact same model of offer. In 2020 i cracked the frame and Solomons arranged the replacement frame under the TREK lifetime warranty policy, even though they are not a TREK dealer or concept store. Go into their Woodmead branch and see the wall of high end wheels on offer at prices you won't get anywhere else. Their online platform might not be on a par with other local online shops but they getting there. Arshard & Aghtar are really cool guys and always willing to go the extra mile for their customers - Sometimes their staff drop the ball - it happens - just speak to them and they will get it sorted.

But when they drop you on there 30 year old MTB in their overalls and 10kg backpack - then the smile disappears and you realise you need to ride more 😁

Excellent news - hope he at least gets time

Use a thicker plug like they use on car and truck tires i have at least one of those thick sherlonkies in my tool bag for just in case

That's strange - Normally with wheel on trainer the front wheel is lower than the rear wheel and you need to block up the front, if you have a block its clearly too high. Measure the distance from the floor to the ctr of the rear axle while its mounted in the trainer - place the front wheel on the floor (No block) and measure the same - the difference between the two measurements is the thickness of the block you need under the front wheel

I have both - My First Accent are probably over 5 years old and Ciovita 3 years old - Happy with both although First Accent have become a bit stretched, i would certainly buy them again though. Ciovita are also good - I done some seriously long rides in them TB being one and they were perfectly suitable for that kind of riding. My only issue is their sizing, they are a small cut so normally where i wear XL i have to go XXL - and the last 2 i bought online were not the same as the 1st set i got - the shamy kind of formed a bit of a wedgie and the straps were far to short, nearly had me doubled over. When i emailed them the courier was back the next day to collect them and they sorted the straps out. I certainly would not buy any Ciovita without trying them on first - I go to cylelab to try out the fit and then buy them online if CL doesn't have what i want in stock - Last time i bought they were exactly the same price between online and CL

Bike - Addict has some real black friday deals on Maxxis - cheapest i've seen in last 2 years

Jussie dude!! I'll remember this, should I happen to encounter you out there on a ride, i'll simply tip my hat and go on by 🤣 Jokes aside, i'm the same, there are certain triggers that send me into a blind rage all i see is red, during these episodes i have no care of the outcome or results of my actions - When the red curtain lifts i'm actually astonished at my own reaction. The way i've handled it - Keep my mouth shut and remove myself from the environment as soon as possible - I disengage completely.

Normally the brand relates to mostly the frame unless it has special suspension only made for that brand. Other than RD hanger everything else should be serviceable or replaceable.

Has he actually measured the gap on his dropper post when its down, or is he just assuming it won't fit. I had a dropper post with about 2.5" stick out above the seat clamp - used 2 Ryder clamps with a C02 T bracket redrilled the holes to mount on the ryder clamps and then mounted the bottle cage on the T clamp - can only take a short bottle, but i have about 5mm gap at the tire at full suspension compression and the same at the top when the post is fully dropped. the trick is to play around with the spacing when the post is down and suspension is compressed before drilling the T bracket. My issue was then all the mud and dust on the bottle - So now i use it for a tool bag and use one of the short clamshell tool bags - Pulled the trigger on a USWE hydration pack with 1.5L bladder, only fill it with 1L of water and nothing else - the problem why many people don't like hydration packs is because they get ones that are too big with 3L bladders and lots of pockets, when they go riding it looks like they off to the western front for 6 months

Like me you probably suck at climbing - I'm on mission now to suck less - lots of leg work in the gym and ride serious hills every week - like Suikerbosrand at least twice a month. Also core strength is critical in climbing so throw in 3 sessions of core a week. Hills also put me in a very dark place mentally - I absolutely hate and try avoid them, this doesn't help in races - so I now ride them and the improvements i see improves my kop to view them as challenges rather than hills. "If you want to get to the top of the mountain, you need to go to the top of the mountain"

Always check where the puncture is in the tube and then check the tire in that place to remove whatever caused the puncture in the 1st place - I remember one of my first races i got 5 punctures in 10km - lucky i was carrying a patch kit and then a more experienced rider stopped and helped me out checked my tire and found an industrial staple was the cause. Now i remove the tube but leave the valve in the rim and pump it - find the leak and then check the tire in that area

Ahah okay i had the same issue moving from a normal spez saddle to a power saddle - I placed the short on upside down on the long one and worked out the nose is 40mm shorter on the power saddle - So i added 40 mm onto the bikefit measurement - where they said my saddle nose must be 50mm behind the BB I now set it at 90mm - Also I use my Iphone spirit level and place it on the nose part of the saddle (Not the back part where you sit) the nose must be horizontal and the sit part or wings of the saddle will rise up slightly - make sure your bike is standing on its tires and not in or on a bike stand. Basically you sit part of the new saddle will be in exactly the same place as the old saddle

Get your sit bones measured - Spez shops have a High density cushion you sit on and it measures your sit bone width - called an AssoMeter. This will tell you what width saddle to use. I suffered for years on a 135mm saddle after visit to Spez shop to get one of their power saddles they told me i need to ride a 143mm - it made a huge difference, initially it felt a bit strange but after a few rides it was perfect - zero saddle pain

Just a shoutout to all the guys who post in this thread and keep it going, It's probably the coolest thread on BikeHub and my GoTo 1st read every day. Its really cool to see where, how, when ya'all ride 🤙

There, i fixed it for you

If the AXS settings are out then its an easy fix you can do in 5 minutes, but if they bent the RD then thats a big problem - Are you sure it's not the hanger that is bent - either way the shop needs to replace them and unfortunately you need to give them the opportunity to do that, if you don't send it back they will say "Well then we can't help you" I wouldn't want to send it back either and you on the back foot here being 7000 km away, but at least you gave them the opportunity to rectify their F/ups before you take further action. Oh and BTW - There no such thing as a general bike service ... I mean WTF do they actually do in the service other than washing it and lubing the chain. Its like when they service your car and tell you they filled your window washer bottle with their brand approved watered down windolene with a cap of rubbing alcohol mixed in and then charge you 180 ronds. Don't expect any help from TREK USA they will simply forward your complaint to the local importer to deal with.

Yep I been servicing and repairing the older Campy components for years - But getting parts locally is another story - I used to get from a guy in USA sadly that contact is no more - So i just stopped - As much as I love Campy, they really suck at supplying parts for their older groupsets, as for the local agents, well they suck even more.

Proper Campy service centers in SA are non-existent if you own ride Campy you need to know someone who knows someone or teach yourself.

MTB - Gavel bikes are for Roady wannabe MTBers

They normally come with new brake pads - Ask your LBS i'm sure they have some laying around in their workshop