madmarc

I'm a bit confused here. so you want to cycle from Cape Town to Cape Point and then use transport to return to Cape Town, correct?

I'm busy clearing out the bike collection and amongst them is this TREK 9.8 full carbon 26er hard tail, built up with all the parts i upgraded on my 29er SRAM GXP cranks 1 X 10 XO Type 2 RD XO brakes XL Frame American Classic wheels - tubeless Rockshox Reba fork with remote lockout Bike is in really good condition - few chips and scratches from the trails What would be a fair asking price ?

On RBC website they have ROCKSHOX ND Tuned bushings I read somewhere that Rockshox no longer offer bushings as parts, only complete lowers, but i'm sure they can be replaced with aftermarket like ND Tuned

Uber ? I'm not from CT but maybe ride from Cape Point to Simons town and then catch the train on the southern Line

Yes i'm sure they can be - Stanchions are pressed out and new ones pressed in - same applies to new bushings - I had mine done by RBC in PE (it was a FOX fork though) - I think they were the first local LBS to start doing it here in ZA - By now there are a few other guys who can do it. They can also replace the steerer tubes. Give them a call and ask.

I still run a FOX Float fork which is now over 10 years old - When i saw wear marks on the stanchions some years back i wanted to replace and the fork engineers told me, it if not leaking oil and has no play then it's good to go. I rode it for another 5 or 6 years but made sure i was doing the lower oil service 2 or 3 times a year. Recently i pulled the trigger and had RBC replace the Stanchion & Bushings with complete service - it's like a brand new fork which i'm sure will last another 10 years

Been using TR for many years - I was a BETA tester and grandfathered in at 99 USD per year, so it was a real bargain for me. there was a big debate recently on their forum about the subscription increase as clearly the grandfathered subs are not sustainable any more - The debate was value for money when comparing TR with other platforms and TR certainly comes out tops. The adaptive training and AI FTP measuring as well as the ease of us mere mortals creating a training plan for an A event is where the value is. If its pure disciplined structure you looking for, then TR is the place to be and you will see the results. The only negative is watching the blue graph can get very monotonous, but the program does allow window collapse to the bottom and then you can watch youtube or anything you like while doing a session. I mess around in ZWIFT as well - so i run both programs at the same time - TR controls the trainer while the window is collapsed and i ride in ZWIFT, so i get the best of both worlds but it does start hurting the wallet a bit now that our ZAR is in the toilet and you running both subs.

I think internal cables on MTB are great - it just gives a neat appearance. But it's only practical if the cable routing design allows for the complete outer to be routed like from the shifter to the RD, so when it comes to changing the inner cable it's not a big deal. also the routing design needs to allow the cables inside the frame to be secured - Nothing worse than a rattling cable inside your frame while riding. when i see designs with the cables entering through the handlebars or the stem i wonder what the designers were smoking - might look cool, but when it comes to maintenance you be stripping the entire cockpit just to replace a cable and all those 90deg corners the cables need to do just goes against how cables are supposed to be installed

Don't get stuck in the CASTROL bush pub - you never find your way home

Not sure which frame you riding, but 24mm tyres are very tight older NAGO frames frames, especially the gap between the tyre and the seatpost - Nevertheless if it was tyre rubbing it would happen all the time, not only when freewheeling. Find out from Dragon Sports if they replaced the bearings or simply cleaned and re-greased. Cup & Cone each ball needs to be cleaned and inspected - I use a magnifying glass - In fact i mostly just replace them - the races have to be cleaned and inspected for damage, if there is any damage they are Kaput - these cup and cone bearings emit a fairly loud friction noise when they are damaged - Also from overtightening. Same applies for cartridge bearings, if they removed the seals, cleaned and re-greased without checking the balls and races and they still have friction noise - then thy need to be replaced. Hub service = new bearings, especially if they are the older type

Well if the grinding is only happening when you freewheeling then it can't be the BB as its not turning - maybe i misunderstand your post. During freewheeling the only things turning are the wheels and i would hazard a guess it's got to do with your hubs. When you say you serviced them, did you replace the bearings ?

Glad to hear you got it sorted - and took the leap to set the RD yourself. Don't rely on LBS mechanics, especially with entry level bikes - Just learn to do it all yourself and your life will be happier

Exactly - 99.9% of failure is from dirt and water - A quick service is to remove the outer outer seal, clean out the bearing, blow it out with compressed air, repack it with grease and re-insert the seal. they will last longer than the frame.

My Top Fuel is a bit later model than your pic The bearing indicated is in the frame - on mine its a 12 X 21 X 8 RS which according to my research is only made by ENDURO They are not cheap - 300 ronds each, so i feel your pain as the frame takes 4 of them I doubt you will get away with bushes - use the MAX bearing and keep it clean - budget to replace them once a year depending how much riding you do

If the rider was in Discovery kit it was a mate of mine - He is okay - a bit banged up but okay - Bike is okay as well

https://www.bike24.com/p2720539.html From Bike 24 in europe So X 19.5 and add +- 50% I would be surprised if its gonna be below 25K locally

Good for you and make sure when you collect it, you check it before paying. Lots of people smirk off these entry level bikes as cheapie throwaways, as the components are really cheap entry level throwaway stuff - If the bike is assembled properly and you maintain the bearings, it will run for years. I bought a 24" Avalanche MTB for my son when he was 6 - I stripped it down and completely rebuilt it giving extra care to the hubs (cup & cone bearings) and the BB bearings. Used to maintain it properly about twice a year - never gave an ounce of problems - And he used to abuse the thing like most schoolboys do. - years later I sold it for nearly double what i paid for it still running like new. So the problem isn't the bike or its components - the trouble starts because they were not assembled properly in the first place. I would hazard your hubs are cup & cone and they weren't tightened properly

Def something wrong with the bearing in the hub, it should have no play and by the sound it's completely dry Take it back i would make them strip it in front of me to check the bearing

I tried 1.8 w/kg pacer on a MTB the other day and got dropped within 5 min, caught them on the next climb and got dropped again on the flat - finding the right balance with these pacer group takes a bit of practice - Like keeping it tight all the way up to 2.5X drops and you go off the front too far it kicks you back to 1.0X drops

I pulled the trigger on the 830 special at CL - Was he best deal i ever found locally - not even my favorite European online shops could compete

Okay its sorted - dunno what i did but what ever it was it fixed it

Let me play around with it a but more - It is zoomed out - I'll clear the cache and reboot my laptop which I haven't done in months

When i open a thread in a new tab, the page is is reduced to a small font i can hardly read is this a gremlin or a setting on my side ?-

vous auriez à poster en anglais si vous voulez une réponse dans ce forum

TREK has the same concept - I have always kept mine in High - 29ers already have low BB height and lowering it even more means more pedal strikes and i need all the help i can get on climbs. lowering the ctr of gravity on downhills and at high speed - use a dropper post - it has far more of an effect than setting the pivot on the low setting