madmarc

Jussie ! So Theft from home and Western Cape still a big thing hey. Julle kaapenaars need to jack up your home security down there.

I'm even prepared to pay for the training - Purchase all the tools required - pay cash for spare parts from the importers - It is beyond belief that a electro/mechanical device of this value is simply binned when a component fails.

Bike theft stats please

We have some amazing people on this here Hub - With all our k@k going on in this country, people still step up to the plate 🤙

This is why I believe there could be a nice home business repairing trainers - but without the importers or OEM support (which i have tried to get) we'll carry on binning them

Far from a smart bike - I cannot see the masses adopting a spinbike when everyone trying everything to replicate real riding experience with rockerplates etc etc. Spinning is not Zwifting and Zwifting is not spinning

That 1967 one - I remember my dad putting them all our bikes every January - We were so proud of our new licenses and used to go round showing all our mates 🤣

There goes a 3rd yellow jersey for Tady FastCar 🤪

I dont know the Lezyne app, if you can get the .fit file from the lezyne you can upload it into the ASX app on the desktop site - Maybe try that and see what info it loads

The rides seem to sync automatically - I've never had to connect the app to sync the ride. But if the bike is standing in the garage and i want to check the battery or play with the settings then i have to connect the app to the bike - need to wake up the components by shaking the bike or shifting. The RD is the main component and must connect first then the shifter connects - it takes a few minutes though. I also see the app caters for if you have the electronic reverb dropper post / TyreWiz tyre pressure gizzmo and i would imagine their new electronic suspension will be able to connect as well. Also google what can be connected direct to your Garmin - I have the battery level connected which will warn you when your battery is low which is cool and a screen that tells you which gear you in which is more of a gimmick as my lungs tell me which gear i'm in and i need to change

Click on the notifications symbol middle of the top menu bar next to SRAM logo - all your ride info should be in there

You can download it from App store and Google play store It works on all SRAM AXS models I run GX Eagle - its also used to set up your drive train RD Micro adjustment Configure how you want your shifter buttons to work. Battery level Firmware updates BTW i have the AXS connected to my Garmin 520 as well - tells me what gear im in and warns me if the battery is low. Every ride uploads to the app like Strava but gives you some analytics of drive train / rider / Route map etc etc - for me it's actually gives better info than the STRAVA free subscription Component summary from Northern Farms Another from Modders SBR on the 34T chainring SBR on the 32T chainring - I hadn't changed the 34 to 32 in the app but it makes no difference when reviewing the time in each gear.

Love the jetstreams coming off your elbows 😁

Ooops I changed it - my ratio is SRAM 10/52 dunno why i had 51 in my kop while i was typing

In theory I agree, there is no power advantage proved with Oval over round. However when i changed I found my climbing or pedal stroke was smoother and i was more comfortable and perceived exhaustion was lower - I wasn't mashing my pedal strokes like i did on the round - so for me oval is better, instead of puking up a lung halfway up the climb i puked it up near the top, but it never made me faster.

I run 1 X with 10/52. had a 34 oval for years - I suck at climbing. when i started training hills for TB and analyzing my gear use on AXS app i was in my 52 on climbs for most of the time - I had no more gears if i started blowing on a climb which was often (training at SBR) Changed to a 32 oval - which enabled me to stay in the 42 on the same climb - the app indicated i was in the 42 for nearly the same time as i was in the 52 using a 34 oval - But now i had the 52 to go to when i started blowing. I reality my perceived exhaustion was lower, I never had to stop and I climbed about 9 or 10 % faster. I don't spin out on the flats and by the time i spin out on the downhills, i'm doing speeds which i wouldn't want any faster especially on off-road descents. So i just freewheel. In fact on the descent of Bergplaas i had to wait for my team mate riding a 34 who was a lot stronger than me. This is actually the intention of the SRAM 10-52. the top 11 gears are your riding gears with the 52 being your bailout gear on steep and tech climbs so if you find you in your 52 on most of the climbs then drop your chainring size. Selecting a gear ratio has a lot to do with what type of rider you are - some riders can ride at a high cadence easy gear and others have to ride at lower cadence harder gear but both climb at the same speed - so you would need to test which is best for you on the same climb - My next test will be the 30 oval maybe i will suck less on climbs

But can you get get your DISCO points is the question 😁

I absolutely agree with you, but in reality there are 2 rules in selling 1. the customer is always right 2. If the customer is wrong then see rule no. 1 Sellers will disagree but that's the reality - I used to tell my sales teams "suck it up or get out of sales" You not in it for his personal relationship, you in it for his money.

I'm a salesman - been one most of my working career - Yes, and a flipping good one at that ! - When i list something and a person agrees to buy it I treat them like any other customer, Before i list it, the packaging is ready, once the funds are secured i get off my ass and finalise the deal, if it means i be at home for him to collect at the agreed time, making sure there is someone at home to hand over to the courier or dropping it at Postnet I always tell them when that will happen - I keep the buyer informed via sms or WhatsApp - send him a screenshot of the waybill and send him a msg a few days later asking if they got the package. I have even driven to an agreed meeting spot to do the handover. One guy mentioned he would use an Uber to come fetch some old laptops i listed as he didn;t have transport - I drove instead to midrand met him at a Wimpy and even bought him a coffee. A sales transaction doesn't end when the money is in the bank - It ends when the customer has the product in his hands and both parties are satisfied. They are the customer - If you don't like customers or their attitudes, then don't sell stuff.

Just had my stanchions done by Robbies Bicycle Concept in PE - highly recommended

Also works with finding where your wife's boyfriend lives 🧐

Twist grips on these old MTB were terrible - I tried to fix many of them over the years for the kids in my street without success. Your best bet would be to get a set of 3 X 7 trigger shifters - I assume its Shitmano so these should work https://www.cyclelab.com/product/2016000-gear-shift-mtb-shimano-7-spd-ef500-rapid-fire-3x7?utm_campaign=19000353318&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=&utm_term=&adgroupid=&gclid=CjwKCAiAp7GcBhA0EiwA9U0mtgBs5GGs2zYrDRmOjnJdQjhYbuy3MAv8pQwqMjXZoENckZ8Hs71UVRoCFGcQAvD_BwE Or search for 3 X 7 trigger shifter on TakeAlotOfMyMoney.com Or i'm sure someone on BikeHub has a set laying in their spare box they be willing to donate You probably will need to recable the gears and brakes as well. These old bikes are not worth repairing - I would get her a new entry level bike like a TITAN from Sportsmans for Christmas

Agree - I been doing it for years as long as they can spin at 20 000 rpm on your finger with an airgun driving it - they be good to go for another year.

If there is no play in the headset while rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake on - then I would hazard it's a fork issue. Either where the steerer tube and stanchions press into the CSU or inside the fork itself. Grab the seat tube and slightly lift the back wheel, if there is play or like a bump in the vertical movement, then its rear shock bushes. Make sure the front caliper & rotor are tight. Also check if the noise is not perhaps coming from your front wheel hub. Also try establish the correct bearings for that SCOTT frame and check to ensure they are in fact correct - I got Cane Creak headset bearings from a LBS whore swore blind it was correct - ID/OD were correct but the thickness was not. TREK bottom headset bearings are thicker. Don't believe what LBS tell you, half of them have no clue themselves - just go through each moving part and identify the noise through a process of elimination. Or you could just stop bunny hopping and lifting your front wheel - ride with headphones banging out some Meatloaf - that would also solve the problem.

Hahaha - I had to use this thing for the first time in Uk looking for my Air BnB at first I thought WTF!! is this a joke. But once I got it working and arrived in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wales at my accommodation, which was a cottage in the middle of a farmer's field I realised that no way any other navigation would have got me there. It really works well