madmarc

Aaaaah the famous safety car debate - many years ago i was responsible for starting the safety car for our club. Other than having a safety car available for support in the event of a technical or an accident, its primary goal is safety against approaching vehicles from the rear. lets assume there is no safety vehicle behind a group riding single file or 2 abreast or whatever - the vehicle approaching from behind does not treat the group like another slower moving vehicle when passing. Normally it would slow down, check if its safe for oncoming vehicles and then pass in the right lane. Nope they simply squeeze past the group in their lane without slowing and as close as possible to the group even when there is an oncoming vehicle from the opposite direction. I need not go into the details of how dangerous this is. Place a safety vehicle behind the group and now the vehicle approaching is forced to treat the situation like any other when approaching a slower moving vehicle in its lane - It is forced to slow down and pass when he sees its safe to pass both the safety vehicle and the group of riders - almost the same when you passing a slower car or an intra-link truck - The driver needs to make sure its safe to cover the distance in the opposite lane before attempting to pass. Riding 2 or 3 abreast, which can now be done because of the safety vehicle behind - dramatically shortens the distance the passing vehicle has to cover when passing making the maneuver quicker and safer. In addition the safety vehicle provides a buffer and dramatically reduces the risk of the group being rear ended by an approaching vehicle where the driver is not concentrating on the road in front of him - We've seen these types of accidents happen often. The biggest mistake i see with safety vehicles is when they sit behind that one guy who got dropped and the actual group is 1km ahead spread across the road because they think their vehicle is still behind them. This is because the drivers are normally wifey or seuntjie or some student earning a 400 ronds weekend side hussle and have no concept of what the safety vehicle should actually be doing. So lets deal with all the karens complaining - They only complain when a group of cyclists are involved - do they rant on social media when its a slower car or a truck that caused them to be 3 min late for church ? Some of them are actually cyclists themselves "Face Plant emoji here" but most are not and don't identify a bicycle as another vehicle on the road, it's just another menace like a pothole or a minibus taxi and another reason for their miserable lives to be even more miserable and angry. With the slaughter of cyclists on our roads every day caused by vehicles - clubs and groups will take more and more safety precautions to protect themselves, even if they are "Technically" illegal. But if it means that even 1 cyclist was stopped from being killed then its worked. So when you approach a safety vehicle behind a group of lycra clad clowns on carbon farmgates - Don't be a box - Be lekka - relax, slow down, pass when its safe. you may even get a hand wave thank you as you pass and there will still be a place in the pew at the back of the church when you arrive.

For the safety of Shitmano - I will stay out of this conversation 😁

When i see posts like this i wonder how many people actually have these strange tap sizes laying in boxes all rusted and dying in their garage - I have a box from when i was a journeyman and inherited when i cleaned out my oldmans garage. Have a few seriously big taps still brand new in their original packaging which will probably all get binned soon. biggest i ever used was the M10 in my garage. BTW I did go check for a M22X1.0 closest i got is M20X1.25

A quick search - its the same concept so Lyne is def serviceable

I don't know the Lynne dropper, but on the ks lev the rotational slop is easily serviceable by replacing the 3 brass pins, they consider this a serviceable item and sell the parts online - Takes 30 min to do. A lot of droppers have similar design so maybe check out the Lyne to see if its the same

Was this race the old Hyper to Hyper ? Was the fastest i ever rode a bike over 100 km's in 2:44 and i was nowhere near the level of the racing groups in the front in terms of fitness levels

thanx for the feedback - The link was the first attempt but its not as simple as he makes it out to be There is a better link i have been following on MTBR with the same subject and watched numerous YouTjub videos on the cartridge rebuild - luckily mine doesn't have the pip so its actually easy to disassemble - I've even replaced most of the seals i got locally from BM. So my journey down this rabbit hole so fare has been 4 cartridge rebuilds. When i experienced the first sag it was really bad, about 2cm's - all the rebuilds develop about 5mm of sag after 1 week of standing not even being used - I suspect i'm still getting air in the inner hydraulic cylinder during assembly. Then i followed an article on PinkBike on their tour through the KS factory and in one of the pictures i noticed that the cartridges are all submerged inside an oil bath and from what i remember something was mentioned that the final assembly was done while submerged in oil to ensure there was no air trapped inside. As these things don't have bleed systems like normal hydraulic system have - this part is critical. so once i close it up and its in its normal working position the air bubbles are accumulating at the top and its starts to sag again. I think this is where the problem lays, as inserting the actuator piston into the cylinder is not easy, as its very tight when the seals are going in and all of a sudden they pop through and oil spurts everywhere (sounds like a porn movie script) but you get the picture. So my next attempt will be to either submerge the thing in an oil bath or fit a cup on the end so i can keep the final closure covered in oil, for the final assembly. I should by now have just bought a Lynne dropper, but i'm not letting this thing beat me, i will fight it until I am free. Here's the MTBR thread link for those who care to join me in the Rabbit Hole https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild.899659/

I fear this will be the final solution

I will call them but I suspect they cannot do cartridge rebuilds

A few years back I bought a KSLEV Dropper post - Wasn't cheap ! - Its developed some sag and i've rebuilt it a few times but to no avail. My question - does anyone know who the current importers are ? I cannot find them or any spare cartridges locally or in Europe - I found lots in USA but once you add shipping it be cheaper to bin it and get a brand new Lynne dropper.

Thanx i'll stick to my engine oil / bar oil mix - I mean who are we to question "The BoringMan"

I just wanna say something All you okes commenting & posting on this topic should all go work for ESKOM - This countries sh$t will be sorted in a week.

I recently pulled the trigger on a USWE Airborne 3 after using a Camelbak and many other hydration packs for many years, after a few rides here's my take. Local prices are insane @ SW they were 3.3K I got mine overseas online from BikeInn for 1.2K It has a top fill bladder so a little more difficult to fill - I remove the bladder, which is no big deal as it means you can at least inspect the bladder for any funny stuff growing inside at the same time - the Camelbak you can simply open the cap and fill. When i first tried it on, I thought Wow! this harness is really small and tight ! I did get the largest one they make in this model. It has a 2L bladder that i fill to max 1.5L. I found the velcro adjustments on the harness really worked well, you set the harness while its on your back and the velcro is serious HD stuff. Once its setup, it sits high between your shoulder blades and their "No dancing Monkey" hype certainly works well - Its sits properly on your back and doesn't move around at all even in the rough stuff. Mine has a detachable tool bag which I remove for normal rides as I have a tool clamshell mounted on my seatpost - I would probably use the detachable tool bag on 100 mile events - So besides the water there is a waterproof pocket that i can fit my phone, car keys and spare AXS battery - for night rides my helmet light battery fits as well - The magnetic goody for holding the mouth tube really works well. The water doesn't heat up any worse than the Camelbak which has never been a issue for me. Sweating on the back and shoulders is also no worse than Camelbak, in fact the USWE has better ventilation on the back padding and harness than any other hydration system i've used. On my first ride I didn't think i would like it as it sits very high and feels fairly tight on the chest, but 30 min later i was wow this thing works really well, the harness is elasticated so it doesn't impede breathing - And I blow like a train on the hills - It basically feels part of your body once you ridden a couple of hours with it. As i mentioned earlier - Locally they insane with their prices - 2K difference I cannot understand how they even stay in business, fortunately i'm in a position to order online when i'm in Europe or I would still be riding with my Camelbak .

Personally i prefer SCOTT over FUJI anyday - But i think its subjective to what specs each has to offer I would compare Wheels Grouspset Fork & Shock Dropper - yes/no Any proprietary brand components would be a nono for me Everything else would be secondary

Huh ? can you elaborate I thought they worked the same as a hollow point

A very good article - well worth reading

I'm a Mech guy so I have zip knowledge on this thing call electricity - But from my years at google university i take the amps and multiply it by the time i need it to run. Kickr uses 12V - 5 amps - using a DC/DC UPS 17800 MaHrs (17.8 Amp Hrs) bought off Takealot for 1300 ronds should run the kickr for over 2.5 hours. I run the same system on my modem and wifi range extenders which will last up to 6 hours where the total draw is 3 amps. DC/DC UPS are a lot more efficient than AC UPS, an they recharge a lot quicker

I did this and it helped with my Morton's neuroma i suffer with on my left foot small toe area - But you will have to make small adjustments to your saddle height and for/aft position - also make sure your foot doesn't touch your wheel when at the 3 o clock position and you turning - I have long feet

BT connections are not the greatest if there are other devices in the vicinity that connect without you knowing - You need to make sure phones tablets and all other BT devices have BT switched off WiFi connection could be an issue during loadshedding - I get terrible connection on vodacom 4G| during loadshedding and my Telkom Wifi slows down or i get lots of dropped connections on ZWIFT. If i was you i would set it up on ANT+ connections its a lot n more stable - i run both TR & ZWIFT at the same time off a windows laptop using 2 ANT+ dongles 1 for ZWIFT & 1 for TR - works perfect

Haha I find pommie drivers such a bunch of karens all they can do is scream/shout and call each other different parts of the female anatomy - they all wait for the other guy to throw the 1st punch so they can claim self defence when they punch back - if no-one punches the screaming just gets louder - the best part is when the cyclist send the film to the police, they actually do something, like send a warning or a fine in the mail, some drivers even having to appear in court for reckless driving, based on cyclecam evidence

Sorry ! say what ? - "be the product". But you are the product and paying to be the product.

So i'm reading through all your efforts here and was wondering - did you consider trying to remove the base with all those screws and then re-assemble or did i miss that part in your repair story

Igzakery - Strava is just another social media D$ck swinging platform, if you really want to see your stats and numbers, nothing beats the above platforms and lets not forget to mention our very own local intervals.icu platform also currently free with requests for donations. If it ever changes to subscription model i'd be slapping my CC on the table for Davidtinker long before i consider Strava

A question for all you Electronic boffins from a mech guy My Samsung Monitor requires 14V 1.78 amps (This is the output on the main adapter as well) I have a DC Ups with 9v/1amp - 12v/3amps & 12v/1.5amps outlets - 17800 MaH that i use to run my wifi modem and range extenders on - lasts for over 5 hours Can i run my samsung Monitor off the same UPS off one of the 12v outlets - will it work or will it blow up ?? UPS also has 15V/24V POE & LAN outlets - have no clue what they are for

In school woodwork class - that was called a "Jack Plane" if you left it sitting on the blade and not on its side, you'd get jacked with a 2 X 4 😁