Brighter-Lights

OP... you forgot something very important... USE A PROPER DESCRIPTION/HEADING... nothing more frustrating than 'for sale' or 'wheels for sale' .... if it's wheels, say MTB or Road... etc.

Warm with hair dryer, peel off slowly, remove sticky mess with Q20...

Powder coating... and anodising changes dimentions. Powdercoating adds quite a thick layer and is the more robust/durable finish. Overseas, there's amazing powder coating color's and finishes available, even pearl colors, but locally the situation kinda sucks... the typical bland colors and some vein finishes. (Silver vein is a common one used for shop shelving - I once had a frame done in Silver Vein, very very hard and tough, but changed color over a period - especially where it got perspirated on. ) Anodising is prettier but requires a lot more prep. than powdercoating. It's said that anodizing is the 2nd hardest substance known to man, but normal anodising is scratched very easily. Proper anodising shops should have the right chemical's to strip old/existing anodising off a part without changing the tolerances, but every shop I've contacted seems to use caustic solutions which will change the dimentions of the part slightly to a lot, depending on how long it's dipped and the concentration of the solution. I've done both. All critical areas should be masked. Use a RTV silicone gasket maker to fill threaded area's or bearing surface area's.

Also still waiting... 20 months now... sharing your frustration... (hunting rifle)

A friend of mine had the same thing happened to his Crossmax SL wheel and he just used Stans... what I do know, is that anything caustic dissolves anodising easily.

Eish... and with the front fork mounted the wrong way around! Not the first time I've seen that... good luck to him... and thanks for caring.

I'm 72kg with gear and 2x 500ml bottles. Rear pressure depends on the terrain. 145 for very technical terrain or a trail bike feel, 155 for gravel and a harder race feel. RP23 rear: 150 PSI (using RockShox pump - loses about 8% when detaching, according to web) Rebound 4 clicks from wide open towards closed. So +- half (9 clicks from open to closed on mine) Front: Sid Race 100mm 80PSI top/60 PSI bottom, 11 clicks rebound from open/fastest position.

HUH? BULL! I've ridden 437km on a Anthem1 in 22hours... it lasted me much longer than that... I'm now on a Anthem X0 and it's the best all round susp. I've ridden. It's a much nicer ride than the previous model Anthem and IMO the best performer for the price. In fact, it didn't win over 130 awards for nothing... To the OP, consider building up a Anthem with parts off the internet. Mine weighs 10.4kg and cost me less than R30 000, eBay, CRC and some local bits. eBay: Anthem X0 frame (2280g actual, size XS), Sid Race fork, EC70 bar, Formula RX brakes CRC: XT crank, XT cassette, XTR chain, SLX fron der, X0 rear der, x9 twisters, Ergon GR2 carbon grips, SLR 135 saddle, Shimano 540 pedals (heavy, reliable, cheap) Local: American Classic Tubeless wheels, KCNC seatpost, cheap stem, tyres I'll put my money on a Anthem X any day. The stock bikes are nowhere near light, but so are the Scotts, they all come with heavy wheels, seatpost, bars etc.

Beautiful!! Thanks man!

Don't get gripshift unless it's X7/X9/X0 - the others suck big time... X7-X0 are all exactly the same btw, the X0 just has a softer rubber and different paint job...

Anthem X with Fox RP23 likes to be your body weight in pounds +- 8%. Also remember that about 6-8% pressure is lost when detatching the shock pump. I'm 71kg (156 pounds) with race gear, ride my Anthem X 150PSI rear with 4 clicks (from open/no rebound) rebound on RP23. If I'm doing trail and want plush, I go down to 140PSI. Also remember, that you won't achieve full travel on certain types of terrain. If you pump the fork or shock to give full travel on a corrugated gravel road, it will most likely be too soft and tapping your energy. Idea is to give you full travel on the hardest hits you're taking. Sometimes it takes a ride or 2 to find the sweet spot, but for Anthem X, I ride 150 PSI (71kg) and it works everywhere for me.

I assume you're a lady - so... If running them tubeless, and you're in the 50 to 60kg range.: 1.6 bar bar front and rear. If running tubes, 1.8 rear and 1.6 front. Basically, stand next to your bike on the side the front brake lever is. Now lean your bike sideways about 45 deg. Pull the front brake and hold while, with both hands on the bar in a 'push-up' position, compress your fork with all your power. While doing this... look at the sidewall of the front tyre, if it folds or crinkle, the tyre is too soft. Do same with rear end. What I also do, is a find a vertical step of say 3-4cm high and ride over it, starting slowly, and look and feel how mych the tyre compresses on a sharp hit... from there I decide how much harder it needs to be. You don't want it SO soft that you pinch the rim, but you want it soft enough for good grip and ride comfort... if riding on nice gravel roads, just make them 1.8. But at 2, you'll start feeling the harshness....

Depends on the terrain and your weight. You have to experiment to some extend because I for instance, run my rear tyre quite soft in rougher and loose terrain, but then have to be careful not to take hits on the rim, in smoother terrain, I pump them harder, but rarely over 1.8 bar, unless it's a small volume 1.9".... I'm 70kg with gear and I NEVER pump a 2.1 Crossmark harder than 1.8 bar - sometimes as low as 1.6 bar...

Get Roger Musson's book... it's well worth the money, and he's got a blueprint inside of a truing jig he built that really works well, and is solid. Also shows you how to make a couple of tools that'll make wheelbuilding easier and faster. I've built quite a couple of wheels before buying his book and I'll recommend any wheel builder, even very experienced, to get this book... The Professional Guid to WheeBuilding Wheel Pro UK " Wheelbuilding tools Make your own wheelbuilding tools and save a LOT of money! My book includes details of all the wheel-building tools I use. As a professional wheel builder I can afford to buy whatever tools I like, no matter how expensive. So you'll be surprised to learn that I prefer to make my own. They're better and they make the job easier and in my book I'll show you just how simple it is. My truing stand is fast becoming a design classic!"

Easy to fix carbon beautifully... not so easy to fix a broken aluminium frame...

Bland enough....? (Madelein's Anthem X - built and customized by me) Hope this is inspiring to you...

R1's have the best stopping power of them all... X2's didn't fare well on dyno in Bikeradar's Brake test... Can't comment on the XX's, but now that I'm on Formula's, I'll never go back to Avid/SRAM brakes...

Toronto Cycles

They are fine. I've put a couple 1000km's on mine. I dented my rear when running low pressure and pinched the sidewall in a race when I hit a rocky section too fast... after that, I couldn't get the tyre so seal again and got a further 2 pinch flats. I'm 68kg, I ran Panaracer Speedblasters 1.95 which is more like a 1.8 at 2 bar on a full suspension and no problems, I'm just a bit more careful over big rocks. With a large volume like a Race king 2.2 or a Crossmark 2.1, you shouldn't have a problem. I use Crossmark 2.1's for training @ 1.8 bar and they're fine. BUT they are very soft... I was shocked at how easily I straightened the sidewall when I go that hard hit... much softer than any rim I've bent before... So too low pressure and a hard hit could cost you some...

Actually, the AMC Tubeless has a VERY low rim hook just like Stans... so no need to reach anywhere deep. Take a small shifting spanner and cover the rim hook with a thick piece of cloth, or folded/cut plastic ice cream container lid, between the shifting's jaws to protect the rim from indentations. The AMC Tubeless has a built in bead hook and THAT'S actually where the sealing takes place. The bent rim hook now prevents the tyre from snapping onto the bead hook and that's why it's leaking there. VERY carefully start straightening it moving along the rim edge. DON'T try to bend it all the way at the first go. Little by little. I have experience bending American Classics and specially the new Tubeless type. I have completely flattened a rim hook for almost 5cm and managed to save the rim. A word of warning before attempting to bend: They are VERY soft. You'll be shocked at how easily they bend. The rim sidewall is very very thin and if the dent has folded the rim hook double/flat, a full bend to 90 deg straight might crack the rim sidewall. In that case, rather bend it until the tyre seals again, but once it seals, don't bend it further as the rim might crack. You want to get the rim hook far enough outwards so the tyre snaps onto the bead hook properly.

None of my lights died in Trans Baviaans... some has done their 4 Trans Baviaans this year... I can tell you why many more Magicshines WILL go wrong at some stage... see photos of a STD Magicshine I opened... one little pull on the cable and the housing will cut right through the insulation and create a short... POOR soldering... one component isn't even soldered... It's all over the web.. just search... people still praising them are too ignorant to realise what they're dealing with... Just imagine your light going dead at 50km/h... pretty sure the light's not gonna feel any pain...

Don't waste your money on overpriced commercial junk... I've used bot of the abovementioned products and to me they are rubbish. I don't want to apply lube every 60km (offroad) I want to apply lube every 2nd ride... or every 100+ km... If you want a wax based lube, get Castrol Chain Wax for motorcycles... R65 at Midas for a 400ml aerosol... I do over 80km per application. If you need a wet lube, get Castrol Lubricut 150 - it's a thick chainsaw lube, which if applied correctly, won't blacken your drivetrain, and lasts many km's. Dirty drivetrain = too much lube applied... The Lubricut 150 you have to buy per 5L as far as I'm aware.. but it will last you YEARS!

I work on it myself... nobody can do it as well as I can.. not even Lance's mechanic...

I've been trading online for over 10 years... Serial numbers are NEVER displayed in online adds - simply because of fraud implications. I deal in quite an amount of vintage musical instrument mouthpieces on eBay for instance, and serial numbers are ALWAYS displayed as SN12345678XXXX. Or 12345***** I would not display my bike's serial number anywhere on the internet when selling, not even here.

My inseam is 81cm, I'm 1.72m, finger tips to elbow 45cm. I've been on everything, even a 19" with setback post and 110mm stem. Then rode a 17" Raleigh RM 7 with 110mm stem and setback post for some time. Then a 16" carbon hardtail with 110mm stem and straight seatpost for quite some time. Now I'm on a XS 14.7" Giant Anthem X with setback post and 80mm stem. (Using a 400mm KCNC post, not even at the max mark) The best fit I've ever had. Just finished Trans Baviaans on it and my first Trans in 5 that I finish with NO body and backpain, or shoulder/neck pain. That's what works for me.