droo

A light toasting with a hairdryer before you start usually does the trick, softens the glue up and it comes off with the sticker. You said residue though, so probably too late for this - a rag with some WD40 on it should dissolve and remove the gunk.

Lots of IDT strength and little to no experience riding in a peloton is unfortunately way too common in the racing-but-not-quite-racing groups. That said, 1C was remarkably well behaved yesterday. And 10 points to the wedge-shaped time triallist in the Embark kit who almost single handedly pulled about 100 people from Llandudno to the line at 45km/h+.

Sounds exactly like my day, in my case I just forgot to pack my climbing legs cos I got shelled by D on the way up Chappies as well. A PR is a PR though, so don't be too annoyed - at least it wasn't a 3:01.

Ja but the 140 spring is longer and therefore heavier (by the weight of 10mm of thin wall alu tubing)

Weather predictions in CT more than a week out. That's optimistic. If you want to know what the weather will do in CT, look out of the window on the day. And if you don't like it, wait 5 minutes. Or ride 5km.

The Lefty project? I have some knocking about but in CT, so some courier charges will be incurred...

There's a Spank agent in CT and he's pretty well stocked, PM me if you don't manage to sort locally.

Looks like all the Mavic stuff has been taken off their site, best to give them a shout and see if there's anything left in a box in the warehouse or if it's all been tossed. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance.

Not really, otherwise you may end up with someone who started at the back taking the category win without crossing the line first. The bigger bunches at some events can take ages to get moving.

Post the part numbers you need and I'll check for you.

Or you've been tweaking them to compensate for a bent hanger...

Does he still ride bikes recreationally?

First prize, if you have to hit something, is using the driver as a cushion. But this is more down to blind luck than planning. I prefer to just stay out of the opening radius of the door where I can - but even this isn't always possible, nor does it account for coupe doors.

Pretty sure you'd be able to order a set, there is a local agent. Shout if you'd like me to find for you.

"A DIY solution" is a very broad spectrum, I haven't seen what you're capable of... no offence meant, but I've seen some questionable work in my time. But yes, getting it in straight is the most important bit. And the easiest thing to break in the process is the sleeve between the two cups, which will go out of alignment if a mouse farts in the next room. This is one of those jobs that I'd say either get the tool or get the LBS to do it for you. Unless you have a carpenter's bench vise, which is about the only non-standard tool I can think of with big enough parallel jaws to get the job done.

I'd guess your problem is that the frame isn't supported close enough to the BB for you to be able to get enough shock through the interface to knock it out. Ideally a block of wood with a hole in it the size of the OD of the BB would work to support the frame so you can get a proper whack in, but that's a very specific size of bit you'd need to make it. Making 2 V blocks might be easier to do but more difficult to manage on your own. That extractor should do the job if you're up for buying tools, but for a quick and dirty fix you can knock the bearing out of the shell which should remove enough of the preload to get the shell out. afterwards. To get the bearing out, lay the shell flat on a block of wood for support - no need for anything special, you'll be able to move it enough just on a flat surface to get it loose, then back in the stand for the last bit.

The fork is way easier to swap out than the shock, especially on the Orbea shock which is proprietary. PM me the 4 digit code on the back of the fork leg and a photo of the top view of the current lockout spool if you need the part number.

There have been others since then, and some even older than yours...

Just that lefty would make me walk away. The last restoration I did on one of those was about R 3k, and only because I was lucky enough to find spares, and if you wanted to replace it with any other fork you're in for a new front hub.

The fibre stuff comes off with the tyre, cos it's poo. The adhesive sticks to the bead of the tyre and the rim bed better than it sticks to the tape itself. Cleanup takes about half an hour per rim. @ChrisF paraffin or artist's turps is the quickest way we've found to get rid of the glue.

Depends very much on what kind of riding you'll be doing. If it's anything reasonably spicy consider a replacement steerer tube.

Just be aware of the downtime if you break or wear out anything on a frame with no local support. And get a spare RD hanger with the bike.

Try @Richiespares, he's always got heaps of Shimano smalls.

I think for us ballies race is a very strong word. There will likely be a bunch of us going up next year. It's a decent excuse to get out of town, and there's a decent brewery out there too.