100Tours

Do the bleeding and bedding in, but at the end of the day it depends on your riding style. I'm 6', 82kgs and I have gone 180mm on all my bikes. it just feels better.

I am working on a gravel project based on a 26" frame at the moment. The wheels are easy enough - a 700c or 29er rim with a gravel oriented tyre seems to fit the rear triangle quite easily, and the fork I'm replacing anyway so there's no issue on the wheels front. The BB is going to be quite high, and the seat tube is a little steep, but that doesn't worry me too much if the rest works out. What has been a little awkward is finding the right crank/chainrings to put on the frame - a road-oriented crank does not clear the rear stays when fitted, and MTB cranksets tend to run too-small chainrings for a gravel build. E.g. 36-26 is just too small for gravel, and 50-38 doesn't fit. I'm currently planning a 4-bolt 46t single 'SAINT' chainring on an SLX crank, but that's only because I have it in the cupboard. I don't think you'll find much in that size for sale. The other thing that's bugging me is how the front end is going to work out. I have a low A2C rigid fork on the way (ebay), but I'm gambling a little with fork trail and stem length is a guess (might end up quite short). Much as I've tried to work out the final geometry I think I'm only really going to know the answer once the whole thing is built.

If you remember why please let me know

respray, chrome, decals and cellotape on the bars. Also found a set of matched rims (thanks Vastland) which were hand polished up to a shine. Pedals were spraypainted to silver.

inspired by a visit to the Moser museum on a wine farm in Trento..

I've been meaning to post this for a while now. I started with a previously resprayed Moser pista (circa. 1983), which at one point had been sold by Hunter cycles in Braamfontein. The frame had started as a baby blue, but now with a dark blue coat.

Have a look at the Specialised Creo (still not cheap). Road and gravel capable with tyres up to 45mm. Assuming that you're looking for that type of riding.

I feel so old school. I bought an e-bike for my significant other who has been cycling for 20 years less than I have.

on road: 2 new tyres 1x a season - between R1 and R2k for the pair maybe a few new tubes - add R200 lube - R200 Chain - R500 (although even every second year is a lot) On a mtb slime top-ups brake bleeding maybe a bit more component wear I struggle to see how you spend more than 3-4k a year if you're not upgrading components. R250-350 a month

I've ridden ghetto tubeless for years. should work just fine with almost any MTB tyre. For me this means tubeless rim tape and valves, but regular MTB tyres. The biggest issue is seating your tyre. Use a rim tape that is wide enough for your rim - I like the duct-tape looking one (the stans option is sometimes too narrow for MTB rims). Then lots of soapy water and a compressor (local garage) should sort you out. It also helps to remove the valve core from the valve when seating the tyre for the first time. Then some fancy fingerwork to put the core back in. Good luck. Edit - Ghetto MTB is just fine. Ghetto road is a no go area (it's bad for your teeth)

I've got my wife on an ebike and we are both delighted with how this is working out. She is on a road bike version (i.e. gravel/tarmac) - she doesn't feel like she's holding me up when we ride together. and conversation is now possible. - she rides for longer - 3h ride at 28-30kph is hard work but not too uncomfortable - she maintains a higher heart rate/suffer score, because she's enjoying it - feels safer because she's got more power to draw on when she needs it - (so far) hasn't had any negative comments or criticism - which was a bit of a worry. It took me a while to get my head around the nature of the beast and the cost of it, but very glad we have taken this step.

I did that 2006 Epic. How did you know to avoid doing 2008? The good news is that rivnuts are easy to fix I would guess that the only shock you'll be able to fit is that exact Spesh shock. Much as I like the bikes they tend to have a thing for designing their own standards.

needs a good bleed - the shimano bleed process doesn't have much risk of damage.

I might have a cannondale head tube reducer for you - to fit a normal steerer tube in there.

do you play golf?

I love my Wide Lightning rims at 29.3mm wide internal. They really make the tyre sit nice and square + supports the sidewall better, and that is great for trail riding. Also I have always gone wider on tyres where I can because they corner with such confidence. I would definitely try the 2.35 on the front - it costs nothing to do the switch, and it makes more sense (for me) to have a wider tire on the front for bike handling reasons. Does width trump tread stickiness.. maybe. For aerodynamics - e.g. on a road bike - the smaller tyre forward is better if you have different widths. Your 20mm rim is on the narrow end of the range, and if you can do just a rebuild with new rims you'll probably spend about R4000-R6000 getting wider. Probably better to buy a set on the hub and sell your current pair if you want to make the switch. the rolling resistance website did a study on (road) rim widths and concluded that just for rolling resistance your rim should be 80% of the advertised tyre width. 80% of 2.35" = 48mm . That's much too big I think to be practical, but something around 30mm will feel a lot more supportive. edit - 2.1" doesn't belong on the front of a mtb. just my 2c

it is actually much too pretty to install where you can't see it on the bike. I've sent you a pm

same - ultegra hydro with XT calipers, and on a tandem with 200mm rotors so they have been well tested. I have heard some complaints when mixing shimano levers with non-shimano calipers

I understand the anger. it still surprises me that people are then prepared to weaponise their vehicle, or threaten to do so. The second part is unacceptable in most first world countries.

This is not the thread you're looking for..

I used to ride a route from Lanseria out west of Kalkheuwel to van Gaalens/Harties - tight and rocky singletrack, and Eric van Gaalen briefly had an enduro style track up over the ridge - if thats the sort of thing you're looking for. We frequently found Eland, Sable and Secretary birds out on those ridges. Other decent routes are Pecanwood to Breedt's (and on to Buffelspoort dam) on district road, Magaliesburg out towards Koster (also district), and Midvaal out towards Suikerboschrand and further south (mix of road and singletrack). Let me know what area you're trying to ride in and I'll see what I can dig up.

Looks tasty, but neither the cheese nor the pasta is vegan. You're eating lacto-ovo vegeterian, and I think that's a good thing.

personally I would prefer to locate them outside of the living area just for convenience (neater, safer, more expansion options). Inside of your living area you are more at risk of children/pets/spills affecting your installation. The longer lengths should be the 220V cables.