MORNE

i had a green pink and yelllow one. those colours look awesome on modern bikes too imo.

you forgot the amazing paint schemes....back when colour still existed

i have a set of x-track on my bike and the wife has 540 on hers. For all intents and purposes they are exactly the same thing. for Vanity points - the Looks are a bit prettier though. One difference i felt in operation on both was that on the looks you can get the tension all the way down. The lowest setting on the 540 is probably like 3 or 4 clicks in on the look. I like my feet loosly clipped in and REAL easy to get out fast so this one is nice for me. if you are one of those guys who likes feeling like you are welded to the pedals and need to be more assertive to get your foot out... then the shimano would probably feel tighter to you at higher settings.....but then i haven't tensioned my looks up all the way anyway so i wouldnt know what they are like at the top. so in summary: the Look can give you a lower tension clip in/out than the Shimano can.

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bike-frames/397985/kingdom-bikes-vendetta-x2-frame-only YES in my size too.... want to NEEED

i see they sell survival badges for that concert. they should add "i'm with Stupid -> " T-shirts too....

Doesn't matter. Next week/month they'll have a notice on their website claiming price increases due to R/$ exchange and applying it to stock they bought when it was R13 (or less) to the $....

OP... you really should be comparing XT to the next one up from Sram. Hope that answers your question

using skype today is like being one of those die-hard myspace people when facebook first came out way back when... Its old and sucks, and the only reason why it still exists is because everybody calls video calling 'skype' so it's sortof become a household name. Zoom and MS teams for real work due to meeting/conference scheduling, app integration , screen sharing etc. Also available cross platform. Everything else is social media.

sure. depending on how adventurous you are there are options... You'd want them connected in parallel to double the Mah rating (NOT the voltage - series connection). EXAMPLE: So if the two separate packs are for instance 6400mah 8.4V each, you want to connect them that they are now a 12800 mah 8.4V. Not a 6400 mah 16.8 V series connection lol.....because you'll probably fry your lights. so you can either look for a splitter cable that does that....or if you have the skills, build a new cell with the loose cells that you remove from the existing packs in that L-ion battery pack. The latter option I wont recommend if you have no clue how to solder battery packs or dont have a REALLY good Weller iron atleast. to much heat for too long on a battery will kill it....so a crappy PnP Iron wont suffice. edit: updatd example voltages etc to match your packs. You'll see the pack says 4 x 1600 cells. that means each pack is already compiled of 4 x 1600 mah 8.4V cells in parallel to give the 6400mah 8.4 V they are both rated. you basically want to build a 8 x 1600 mah 8.4V cell. totally doable with either option mentioned. someone at a RC hobby shop can definitely show you/do it for you even. You'll find all the bits like the connecting plates and shrink wrap there too. edit2: third option...you could probably make your own splitter cable too from two separate power cables. ji'd rather buy one though...would make all this lots easier. Also i'm aware the cable pictured is not exactly what you'll need...but in principle, something like that.

Potato Pro...

bet it got taken to school over plenty of rocks and stuff....

probably the most answers you'll get will say Formula Cura's...but they will by far be not the LOWEST ranking despite their relatively cheap price. read this in its entirety and you'll have a good idea. https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

disagree with the deore hate. Deore brakes are widely considered some of the best bang for buck brakes you can buy. There are plenty online tests putting them up against most of what is available today. They perform very close to Xt level when they are properly set up. They are in essence exactly the same thing as the Xt and SLX other than the ceramic pistons and the lever adjustment knobs on levers and some material differences for weight. most if not all the parts are interchangeable for that matter. if you dont use the finned pads...they even come with exactly the same brake pads. to ad to the discussion. I think deore brakes dont get added to entry level bikes anymore because they are too good and are harly replaced with upgraded brakes by many. ps, i still use a set of deore brakes on my latest mtb. They are a set that just keeps on getting passed down to the next bike. sure they dont have the best modulation but stopping power is no problem at all. Fine mine have better pads in and are properly bled and use them with icetech rotors....but they can plenty lock up both wheels on a 15kg bike with an 80kg rider on it. if I grab a fist full of front brakes on my deores without being prepared i'll go OTB for sure.

panic stealing of shopping carts in: 3 2 1 edit:

especially when outsiders and onlookers underestimate us.

beat me to it.

did you watch the live address with the ministers from 5pm?. they did police minister was pretty clear lol. and the health minister went up there to explain why they changed their mind regarding the dog and exercise thing. NO BOOZ. NO NOTHING OUTSIDE. DONE

local sales you can meet up at your supermarket. Can just as well trade bike parts while waiting in the line for your chance to maybe get some tp or milk

same basically...we have decided to stay in town rather than go to the parentals in the suburbs...for obvious reasons.

i dont own a IDT...and i have already made peace with the fact that i wont be riding my bike for 21 days minimum. it sucks because my fitness has improved somuch over the past few months and I had a goal regarding distance this year....but that just means I'll need to ride more when we can again. For now i'll get the jump rope out....better exercise than cycling anyway...

yup....blame it on the UCI in 2008. aesthetics over performance. People and marketing teams have since come up with a multitude of "reasons" why baggy clothes and motorbike helmets are 'more betterer' than skintight cycling gear and open face helmets for MTB, all to sell....wait for it....'a look' But it' all BS. Truth is, if the UCI weren't fashion police....the WHOLE DH (and probably Enduro) paddock would be racing in skin suits and aero helmets...since it was proven to be infinitely faster that day when Ben Cathro and co pitched up and challenged the status quo by not worrying what they look like....but how fast they go. I recall this one episode of GMBN where they took a DH bike, used cardboard to make a rear wheel more aero by crudely turning it into a disk wheel, strategically covered up some holes in the frame and front fork with more cardboard and tape....and wore a ski-suit with an aero helmet...he almost went 10 seconds faster on that run. Fine he looked a bit silly....but imo since when is fashion more important than performance in RACING?

looks like a standover height vs reach vs axel to crown equation. depending on what version of the Lauf that is...it's axle to crown measurement could be as much as 50-70mm less than a 120-140mm telescopic fork for instance. imo if the frame was designed purely to take a rigid or Lauf....and the owner wanted to put something else on there at a later stage...the geometry would be all out of wack probably. using a taller stem or more spacers makes it a temporary 'compromise'. i have the similar thing happening on my current bike. with the rigid fork and to get the bars i want them for all day comfort (±level with seat)...i ride it with that 80mm riser Surly handlebar. if i want it in a more xc configuration for short events i swop it out for a 35mm riser with a longer stem (normal 6* stems). the axel to crown measurement of most rigid mtb forks is around 490mm. But thats the suspension corrected measurement for a 100-120mm travel fork only. a 140mm fork (my frame's max) has a axel to crown measurement of around 550mm on avarage. so theres the 'missing' 50mm.

that will work just fine.

ill keep posting the alternatives then... also don't forget these...although a bit small for a tube and extras https://www.on-lynecomponents.com/collections/the-holy-rail/products/holy-rail-triangle-storage-box-kit-quick-draw-multitool

{insert sophomoric gender reference here} on a different note, it seems more prefered/fashionable these days to use a toptube/fueltank bag. i use one...they are nice because they are easily accessible while riding (phone, gells whatever)....and also look a bit better than saddle bags imo. purists will still object though. i dont like riding with crap in my shirt or with a bag on my back so you be a purist all you want lol.