MORNE

Kudos to him being brave enough to ride through there himself, get robbed and then also chase the box down into that mess.

Yes, yes…‘mr hustler’ but…i and many others have also sold things in the forums on more than one occasion. Through pure discussion and wanting to help out with a part that might not be listed in classifieds. I personally did just the other day. A forum discussion starts, someone maybe needs something they cant find..I know i have one in my parts stash somewhere, and offer it for sale to help out. That deal doesn't even go through classifieds. Just saying. Also, i’d just like to point out that here you are joining in on the k@kpraating in the forums - expressing your opinion 😁. Welcome to the community!

Imagine…should be a thing! something that overheats the lithium battery to the point of catastrophic failure👀

He obviously chose the non nuclear option and not to brick it and instead follow it around in the hope of retrieving it. It was new after all as he said 🤷🏻‍♂️ Once you mark it as ‘lost’ and then ‘erase/lock device’…and even put a lock screen message on it should it ever be switched on again….it’s gone - even to you. yes, these get sent to wherever oversees, and hardware reset, flashed.

https://rookcycles.com/collections/parts-and-accessories/products/byway47-tyre-each

Some bikes and their leverage ratios/ progresivity curves just mean you’ll blow through even a heavy spring. Some coil shocks like the DHX2 are also just more linear in their travel. As an example, my previous bike had me running a 550lb spring on a DHX for my 90kg weight. My new bike with an ohlins shock has me on a 388lb spring for the same weight. Different damping philosophies.

Admittedly not a surfer myself, but would have thought you wear a wetsuit here because of the 10-17* C water temps first and foremost…i highly doubt a kite surfer who frequents warmer waters wears a wetsuit. Baggies and inpact vest only? Same goes for surfers. Sun protection in the way of those long sleeve jobbies we also put on kids, but a wetsuit in 25*+ water? Yea no i would think.

Who cares about the expo when all that matters is the expired/sample products in the goodie bag. This is peak value.who will be the lucky fool this year to score a bag of rice i think?

Thats a pretty cheap crankset, although still durable. But in line with the Raceface Ride that was on there. Only thing i wont like about the mt510 is it still uses 96bcd chainrings…not directmount

I mean it could even be an XT crank, in which case id say you are being upgraded anyway. But i’ll happily rock a deore (m6100) crank. Bulletproof. Chainrings for (any crank for that matter) arent an issue with csixx around anyway

So heres my recent experience with (not) Garmin SA… i bought a garmin watch end October 2024 and it bricked itself (red triangle of death) mid January 2025. Not even 3 months lol. Anyway, i bought it through takelot on a pre BF special. I literally logged the return on the app the Monday, dropped it off at a pickup point and had a new watch on Wednesday. No dealing with Garmin SA. i thought that was pretty sweet considering if I had bought it through a retail brick/mortar store…they would have wanted to send it away to Garmin and it would have taken waaaaay longer. This way it was covered by TA’s own warranty/return policy and i was sorted. still sh!t that the thing only lasted 3 months though…

You don't have to take it from me, it’s a gen alpha thing apparently, but THAT look, fully complimented by the over baggy jeans, sleeveless t-shirts and/or moto gear is making a comeback amongst the groms abroad. Like all things 90s

A skills coach who dabbles on both sides of the mtb spectrum in a semi pro capacity once mentioned to me that one of the bigger hurdles he faces with marathoners/Xc riders is convincing them that any form of body protection is better than nothing while casual riding, not just because its safe, it promotes skill and trail difficulty progression. Anyway, even the fabled mr Schurter rides in pads and trail baggies/tees when he’s not busy ‘racing-snaking’….people should go have a look at some of his videos on his longer travel bikes - where he learns all the skills that has him doing those crazy things on XCO courses in his lycra on raceday.

Bib under non padded trail clothing. Knee pads or long trail pants otherwise. Proper trail pants offer good abrasion resistance. Anybody saying otherwise does not pedal long enough to warrant a chamois-clad-bib and surely also hasn't had proper ‘skin removal surgery’ on a trail. Loose clothing helps when your skidding/falling along and its the only layer between your bare skin and the 20 Grit trail surface or tree branches. Padded baggies suck in my experience, because they ride up or slide down / move around. Bibs stay in place because they go over your shoulder. Then, anybody saying anything about full face helmets on any kind of trail is welcome to PM me for photos of my face pre-plastic surgery when it became my primary stopping device against some rocks in a crash…. most important, be comfortable.

for iphone users: read below + screenshot of setting screen. https://support.apple.com/en-za/120340 Then of course theres the nuclear option like most smart phones, you can make it brick and erase itself from any of your other devices or X times failed password attempts. Works well, ive had to do it twice before unfortunately. Even easier if you have a ‘family’ set up on your account…you can just ask a family member to do it through the find my app.

Shhhhh. Stop advertising one of the last treasures out there😅

If you are choosing between those, and 2 pot, the Formula Curas are monster stoppers in my experience. I use the non X version 2-pots on a 17kg enduro bike and they rival many 4-pot brakes ito stopping power and modulation. I like them so much i have 2 sets on different bikes. The X version just cuts weight but is the same epic system. Extra bonus is all the spares/parts are available locally - more than you can say for shimano or even sram in some instances. i like shimano brakes…but nothing more expensive than SLX - so you don't cry when you have to throw them away when they break because you cant find parts. if you are shopping in XTR territory, don't forget about Hope’s. (XCR X2 etc) Fully rebuildable locally too. Nice bling too.

‘Doing afrikaburn right’ is a slippery slope and things just go down hill from there. Might as well go full retard and take a DH bike😁 PS: legit thought about this pic when i read your post…this is pretty much the look you should be aiming for:

Yea you have the same problem but at the other end of the spectrum. Size S bikes are also considered a niche size - at least in SA. And Rare!. My wife is 170cm and i built up n medium Hyrax for her, but literally had to build it as the smallest medium size bike I possibly could so it could fit her right. Modern bikes are long.

Look Im not a bike fit expert by any stretch lol, but i’m very in tune with how i like my own bikes to feel when i’m on them and i know my preferences well enough by now that i can look at a Geo chart and know exactly what i would need in terms of components to make it fit me right. I can and do replicate that feeling as close as possible across many bikes, road-gravel-mtb. This is partly because I used to CAD them out on the computer haha. This made it possible to overlay different bikes to see how touch points were affected and what i needed to do to get the fit right. it could be as simple a saddle shape/position/height issue. Or even armpump depending on what trails you ride, which is very much a suspension and or tyre pressure related. It could also be a combo between reach and bar width. A 800mm bar on 450mm reach puts you in a different position than say a 760mm bar on the same reach. Backsweep, roll, rise too. Wider bars pull you forward. Many variables. But I’ll say If your saddle height measured to the floor is roughly the same as your grips to the floor, you should be relatively neutral and centerer on the bike which means the sizing is pretty close. Your arms are longer as you stated, that means you have room to play with in this regard. Lucky! It SOUNDS like your weight is slightly biased to the front which could mean you are keeping yourself up with your hands off the bar - leading to the issues you are describing. Negating someone with a washboard core and monster abs, you should be able to hold yourself up and have the grips float loosely between your fingers without wanting to ‘fall’ forward while seated and freewheeling along. “Heavy feet, light hands”. That has always been my gauge and how i know my bars/reach/stem are close to being in the right position. A very tall saddle combined with slammed bars or too long a stem will put your weight forward naturally, meaning you will be holding yourself up more with your hands than you probably should. Ofcourse some people want this too, as it results in more grip on the front wheel. Go feel both sizes out, move the bars around. Look for that heavy feet light hands feel. Avoid feeling stretched out. You’ll be pretty close then.

I’m 197cm, 1:1 ape ratio….and i can promise you that you don't need an XL. In fact..as @ChrisF alluded to, modern Geo means you might be lucky enough to try M or L bikes depending on brand and also what your preference is ito bike handeling. A smaller bike will feel less cumbersome ito handeling. I should probably be riding an XXL…but i’m not a dentist and dont have Santa Cruz money. There are only a few brands sold locally in these sizes…spez S6’s being one and SC being the other. Trek mskes small bijes so i dont regard their XxL too big. That being said, i prefer to ride XL bikes, with some caveats - knowing full well they are probably on the ‘smaller’ side for me. They are still massive bikes though and will never be as nimble in the twisties as L and M bikes. 480mm reach vs 520mm is huge. Then, ask any tall rider and they will all moan about how low the stack is on most modern bikes. Bike brands design bikes in size M/L and compromise all the others. Proportional sizing is rare. I want a frame with 680mm stack…instead i have to accept that 630-640 ish which is in most cases the same as a size M/L. I want longer chain stays, instead i get the same ones that are on a size S,M,L. Low stack automatically means 50mm risers to get a better seated position and more comfort with less strain on my hands. If a 300mm dropper post existed and could fit in a frame, i would be able to use one lol! I have some noticable saddle to bar drop even with 20mm spacers under a 50mm riser bar. Before droppers i had a hard time finding seat posts long enough (410-450mm to get minimum insertion) i currently ride a bike in XL that feels great…but its in the smaller side of the XL spectrum imo (495mm reach and a pathetic 637mm stack)..i mean there are size large bikes close to those numbers out there. BUT, it has proportionally sized rear triangle, as in..rear center grows with larger sizes…so its actually as long as an XL bike is supposed to be and it gets me in the center of the bike where others have me hanging off the rear. It rides great. Its still a boat (big long XL bike) but just rides so much better than many other compromised XL’s ive ridden in the past. In conclusion: Try a M and a L.

Yes, to simplify for those who might not yet know - basically fiber, since your body cant absorb it. So if something has lets say 20g of carbohydrates per serving, of which 5g is listed as fiber…net carbs can be expected to be around 15g. Also, dont take food labels as gospel. Its a well known fact that they can vary by up to 20%.

Me neither, all i meant to say is even if you fast but end up eating more than your expenditure…the fasting wont do anything if weight loss is the goal.

Agree, id say if this is how you want to try it @Robbie Stewart, try to cut carbs to under 10-20% of your total caloric intake. For most people 10% carbs on a calorie restricted diet is basically one apple. Eat around 30% ish protein and the rest fat. Be honest. Its hard, there are hidden carbs in everything..milk, fruit, starchy veg being most people’s downfall. I almost find it easier to just go full carnivore for 2-3 weeks to kickstart the process then settle into a loWER carb higher fat/protien cycle.