Search the Community

Howzit, I recently watched a couple videos on YouTube about chain waxing(one linked below) and think it’s great but I’m struggling to find all the necessary hot melt wax lubricant beads or the strip chip as shown in the video. I like how he suggested that you can make a quick chain hanger with wood and angle brackets. Will do something similar. I already found a cheap wax warmer on Takealot https://www.takealot.com/pro-wax-100-wax-warmer/PLID70397760 Any references or links to necessary parts or products would be appreciated 🚲 TIA Video:

I have a '22 model that hasn't had much off-road action and has been serviced by Durbanville cycles since I purchased the bike. It's always had some chain slack when in the small rear gear (it's a 1 x 12 L-Twoo set up) and if you're pedalling at high RPMs and stop pedalling, the chain lunges forward then resets itself (tested when on a bike service frame too) 2nd issue is that when you push down on the pedal after coasting it doesn't engage the rear wheel/power immediately. There's a slight lag before the power is engaged. Any ideas on what is happening? I'm in the NL 🇳🇱 now so I can't take back to DVC 🙄

This topic has been covered often, usually with similar solutions. I must be missing something... hoping someone can tell me what else to try. Chain slip in smallest sprocket (11T) at power (>500w), obviously worse with small chain ring, but also happens in big chain ring. Brand new Campagnolo Record 12s chain, like new Super Record Cassette and Record RD on low millage Bora Ultra wheels and freehub. Nothing is worn out. Chain is the right length, not stretched (new) and the tension is good. I straightened the derailleur hanger, moved the limits and re-indexed (it is so perfectly sweet). Only started after I changed from SRAM 12s to new Campy 12s chain. [SRAM 12s chains run quieter over Campy teeth than Campy chains...] I did also re-grease the free-hub. Can a freehub slip and sound/feel like chain slip? Also set the B-screw tension to as close as possible (to engage more of the sprocket teeth). The cassette lock ring is at the required 40Nm and the freehub nut is clean and fits flush. What else should I try? Any input will be highly appreciated. Charl

I fitted a new Connex single speed chain to my dirt jumper. After the first chain clean, I used a waxed based lube on it. I rode the bike a few times over 3 weeks and now the chain has developed multiple tight links. Tried the following: - cleaned and degreased the chain - applied a light oil based chain lube - twisted the chain back and forth at the tight links to try loosen them It seemed to work for while until after 2 rides then the stiff links seemed to return. I don't know if it's a defect with the chain or am I doing something wrong?

So this weekend I made a noob mistake. Took my chain off for a deep clean, let it soak in paraffin (old schools cool man), scrubbed it, dried it off, etc. But when I wanted to put the chain back on the roller and bushing from the links where the masterlink connects to was missing in action (both ends). By my own powers of deduction, I realised they are swimming in the bottom of a 5l old motor oil can somewhere in the local Midas's used oil container. Seeing as I just poured the used paraffin in there after the clean. #facepalm #lotsofswearing #poephol So I suppose my question is can I just replace the bushing and roller with one from a salvage chain at my local Bike shop? The chain has lots of life left (only 1500km on it [GX eagle] and not close to replacement time) and I just don't want to chuck it away for no reason. I assume the risk here is that the replacement roller and bushing could be worn more than my current chain. Are there other caveats? *edit: spelling*

Good evening folks, Bicycle parts agent I know told me this weekend that a Quicklink is only meant to be "used" once ie. if you take your chain off your bike you should chuck the old Quicklink and use a new one. Is this really the case? I wash my chain after almost every ride, so does that mean I need to fit a new Quicklink every single time I remove the chain for a thorough clean?

Hi Guys I run a SRAM X01 1x11 drive train. After almost every ride I clean my chain by removing it and shaking it around in paraffin, rinsing throughly with water and then relubing with Smoove chain lube once dry. I use a park tool CC-3.2 chain wear gauge to monitor wear and replace chains when they reach 0.5% wear. I do this because of the price of X01 cassettes and chain rings. My issue is that I only get about 500kms out of a KMC or SRAM chain riding in mixed Gauteng conditions. Is this normal?

Hi Everyone, Just wanted to show of my new office desk as it has bicycle parts in and i'm super stoked about the results. I made a mould and concrete mix, added the chain and gears(I used a sram parts), then threw the concrete mix in the mould with mesh to make it stronger. I then made the legs and waited for the table to set, took about 4 days. I then polished and sealed it.

Feel my chain is very saggy when on 36x11 I know even if i ride its not suppose to be there but its seems like my chain is too long... Its a new chain aswell. If you could please whatsapp me that i can send pics i cant seem to post pics on the forum for some reason. 0763303831 Thanks in advance

Hey guys, My bike started doing this weird thing lately: when I'm cycling normally, i.e. not exerting massive amounts of force onto the pedals like you would pushing a small gear up a hill, then my gears and shifters work fine. 10 speed deore casette with deore chain , deore derailleur and 1 x narrow wide chainring up front. But when i pedal hard, like up the hill in a small gear, i.e pushing down hard on the pedals, something happens. it feels as if the chain slips for a second, or as if the chain jumps off the casette or something. i'm usually not looking at my drivetrain when this happens. all i know is it causes me to suddenly shift all my weight forward followed by striking my knee on the stem, ouch. any ideas what could be causing this? It's a brand new chain, derailleur and casette combo. as said before it shifts no problem just pedaling normally. my free hub body is fine, rear hub is tight, bb is new... i'm out of things to check... please help, thanks

Hello Cyclist I need help regarding replacing my chain on my Tiagra 10 speed. I used my chain checker tool, and the tool indicates that chain needs replacement in the future (0.75) and not (1.0) at the moment. I would like to know the chain options that are available for replacement, do I purchase a Tiagra 10 spd chain or can I purchase a 105 chain. Instead of Shimano can I give SRAM a go. Power link or Chain break tool? Instead of a road chain can I make use of an MTB chain. Are MTB chain stronger and last longer? Please advise. Thanks

I’ve been riding only singlespeeds for quite a few years, and have recently got a bike with gears again. I had a bit of chain slip with the geared bike and did some research on chain wear and replacement, cassette, and chainrings, etc. It made me realise that I haven’t done the same for my singlespeed components, so I took out my chain wear indicator and checked my XC SS. Turns out the chain is very worn. The chainring is very visibly worn too. But, I haven’t had any performance issues yet. No slipping or anything. (It’s a big fat SS chain and chainring.) So, is there any reason I shouldn’t just keep using them? I have some spare chains, but have struggled to find a nice replacement SS chainring. Any suggestions? I’m based in Zim, but have friends in Jo’burg and Cape Town who could receive anything I order.

Hi guys, Had a look at all the normal local online shops. Anyone know where i can buy a chain guide locally for my bike? I want to convert my bike to 1x10. Thanks in advance

Hi Everyone, Needing some help please with my drive train. __________________________________ Firstly What I Have: CRANKSET: Custom SRAM S-1250, 7050 alloy arms, 10-speed XC double, PF30 spindle, 175mm FRONT DERAILLEUR: SRAM X7, 10-speed, 34.9mm clamp, top pull REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano XT Shadow Plus, 10-speed, SGS long cage SHIFT LEVERS: Shimano SLX, 10-speed, trigger CASSETTE: SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36 CHAIN: SRAM PC 1031, 10-speed, PowerLink _______________________________________ Now My Problems: - Bad Chain Slap, with clutch on and off... - Keep dropping the chain off the big front ring, I have tuned it and had the shop tune it, even lowering the mount a touch but still after about 20km of riding the problem starts up again.. - Sometimes when standing to power up a small climb the back gears would skip up one and then back down, mainly on the smaller cassette gears... On the stand the gears shift perfectly even on the trail its perfect, just when I stand up to power up a short hill it would jump every now and then. Limit screws are set and tension on cable is great for fast and smooth shifting. - This weekend my chain kept hoping off the bottom jockey free wheel of the Rear Derailleur jamming it between the cage and the free wheel. When I took it apart nothing seemed to be wrong despite seeing it wobble and throw the chain off while on the trail and stopping to unjam it. - Lastly the chain seems to have a bad flex in it, but since the beginning. Its been measured and not worn to the point of replacing it _________________________________________________ Bike is about 3-4 months old, done about 850kms and bought it brand new so first owner. I have never been a Shimano fan, none of the derailleurs I have had worked great and also been fussy. I am thinking of replacing it with a SRAM X9 type 2, most likely a medium cage since is a 2X10 setup and perhaps a new chain However would this help solve the problems I am having or must I check somewhere else for the cause of these problems before spending the money? Thanks in advance for your help, looking forward to your feedback. Kind Regards, Tim