Ryanpmb Posted June 25, 2013 Share The one belongs to Jason - Good2Go - He runs conventional 3 x 9 with 30mm Renthal Riser bars and a dropper post. Wheels are lightweight, AM Classics, which are not his first choice but he's waiting for better options. Craig is riding Patricks bike - running XX1, ZTR Flow wheels, XO trail brakes, Nice wide Truvativ bars - Very bling, very nice !!Pats bike is awesome. He has a few demos setup the same that guys are riding. The XX1 suits the bike so well. Fun trail machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilipV Posted June 25, 2013 Share hehhe, but why not daddy, i love having my cake and eating it, what good is cake without eating it, hehehe asked since I pretty much ride like this atm on my old bike. guess i should probably get use to riding in the middle blade 99% of the time now and then move up or down from there. G I reckon you are a perfect candidate for 2x10 then. I'll never ride a triple again. Will probably even move to a 1x11 eventually when the technology trickles down and it becomes more affordable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesme Posted June 25, 2013 Share Prob true, Just not the cheapest conversion/fix to do. G I reckon you are a perfect candidate for 2x10 then.I'll never ride a triple again. Will probably even move to a 1x11 eventually when the technology trickles down and it becomes more affordable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 25, 2013 Share Prob true, Just not the cheapest conversion/fix to do. GA cheaper way, although not perfect, would be to remove the large ring and replace it with a bash ring, replace the middle ring with a larger one (36T or 38T), and wind the high stop screw on the front derailleur down to stop it going over to where the big ring was. Not perfect as I said, but a cheaper way to covert to 2x10. Edited June 25, 2013 by pedal_bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesme Posted June 25, 2013 Share clever idea, thanks. G A cheaper way, although not perfect, would be to remove the large ring and replace it with a bash ring, replace the middle ring with a larger one (36T or 38T), and wind the high stop screw on the front derailleur down to stop it going over to where the big ring was. Not perfect as I said, but a cheaper way to covert to 2x10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamS2 Posted June 25, 2013 Share So I'm getting close to completing my build and have a question or want some ideas. Anyone here running with front brake on the right hand-side (what's norm in SA?)? I run with my front on the right and find that I need to cross the rear dérailleur cable and rear brake hose cables on the down tube so brake cable goes to right side of headtube and rear dérailleur cable to left side of head tube? I tried crossing at the top of the head tube above the last set of cable guide lugs but it's very tight to cross there and I'm afraid it may eventually kink or crimp the cable or hose. Also tried crossing at bottom of the head tube before the first cable clamp but aesthetically it doesn't look that great. Crossing half way up looks even worse. Just interested to hear what others have done with a similar setup. I cross my cables just below the bottle cage. Works well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted June 29, 2013 Share awesme 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBN Posted June 29, 2013 Share I am running an XT RD Type2, with the clutch, and find that the clutch lever is hitting the frame when I am in the big sprocket of the cassette and pushing the chain out of line! End up having to leave the clutch off and if I lengthen the chain it sags as there is not enough tension in the big gears. Anyone else finding this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 29, 2013 Share I had a similar problem except when I was in the smallest sprocket. I just backed off the b-screw slightly so the clutch lever just clears the frame. it didn't affect shifting so all good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYGA Posted June 29, 2013 Share Can anyone here tell me offhand what the shock length and stroke on the Pyga 110 is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted June 29, 2013 Share Can anyone here tell me offhand what the shock length and stroke on the Pyga 110 is?Replied to your text. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyster Posted July 5, 2013 Share I have a set of wheels that will be perfect for a PYGA build - Easton EA70XT. 15mm front and 12mm thrubolts at the back. I initially bought these off a hubber (brand new and new been used) for my own PYGA build, but the medium was too big for me, they don't make a small, bla bla - long sad story. Turns out that converting the rear 12mm to a QR is near on impossible. Since my new bike has QR at the back, I am looking for new wheels. If anyone is interested in buying the Eastons, let me know. I bought them for R3500, including Rocket Rons and will let them go for the same price. Buyer pays postage. The wheels are still at my LBS (looking for conversion options), so I can't post pics. This is also why I have not yet listed them in the classifieds. Thought I would give the PYGA clan first choice. If no one is interested I will list them in the classifieds and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanpmb Posted July 5, 2013 Share I have a set of wheels that will be perfect for a PYGA build - Easton EA70XT. 15mm front and 12mm thrubolts at the back. I initially bought these off a hubber (brand new and new been used) for my own PYGA build, but the medium was too big for me, they don't make a small, bla bla - long sad story. Turns out that converting the rear 12mm to a QR is near on impossible. Since my new bike has QR at the back, I am looking for new wheels. If anyone is interested in buying the Eastons, let me know. I bought them for R3500, including Rocket Rons and will let them go for the same price. Buyer pays postage. The wheels are still at my LBS (looking for conversion options), so I can't post pics. This is also why I have not yet listed them in the classifieds. Thought I would give the PYGA clan first choice. If no one is interested I will list them in the classifieds and see what happens.Drop XTC1 a PM. He's got a build up his sleeve and may be interested... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyster Posted July 5, 2013 Share Thanks Ryan, much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyster Posted July 5, 2013 Share Sorry guys, the wheels are EA70XC, not EA70XT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndriH Posted July 16, 2013 Share Hi, other Pyga Hubbers, Received my oneten29 Pyga today! One of the last raw Aluminum frames. Great build by Ian and Chris of Design in Motion, Johannesburg. Very professional, knowledgable and fair prices. I could not beat their offering after extensive online searches for components. Pyga Industries was generous enough to supply a new 2014 130 mm Revelation RCT3 fork (thanks Patrick for making us proud). Full XT 2 x 10, DT Swiss wheelset, Racing Ralphs...exactly 13 kg without pedals as confirmed by 2 bathroom scales. Cannot wait for tomorrow morning! Edited July 16, 2013 by AndriH Thug, Big Wheel Cycles, Hairy and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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