Pocket Knives ?

[Tromp]

They're quite different. Lansky/Smith's is a proper edge profiler, but takes longer and is not something you'd do too often. Warthog is more for quick sharpening - I have a similar sharpener I keep in the kitchen and for touch ups on other knives. 

 

Properly used, the lansky is hard to beat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlI5PaXsfOk

They're quite different. Lansky/Smith's is a proper edge profiler, but takes longer and is not something you'd do too often. Warthog is more for quick sharpening - I have a similar sharpener I keep in the kitchen and for touch ups on other knives. 

 

Properly used, the lansky is hard to beat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlI5PaXsfOk

They're quite different. Lansky/Smith's is a proper edge profiler, but takes longer and is not something you'd do too often. Warthog is more for quick sharpening - I have a similar sharpener I keep in the kitchen and for touch ups on other knives. 

 

Properly used, the lansky is hard to beat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlI5PaXsfOk

Bought a Lansky sharpening system ( 3 stones ) from SPCA charity shop for R25...appears hardly used. Is that a bargain or not ?! ( of course I paid moree than the asking price ).

[geomark]

Bought a Lansky sharpening system ( 3 stones ) from SPCA charity shop for R25...appears hardly used. Is that a bargain or not ?! ( of course I paid moree than the asking price ).

Serious bargain, and 3 stones is pretty much all most people will ever need. 95% of the time I only use 2 out of my set of 5 for maintenance of edges.

[MphatiPyga]

Was using the Emmerson designed Kershaw tanto easy opener as my ride knife for a few years

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Just picked up the Honey Badger and much much happier with it for that role, lighter, more comfortable, quicker to open and a more versatile blade to use for other things

honey-badger-opener-large_copy.jpg

My ride knife too, have seen some people put a cable tie onto the hollowed out bit to make it an automatic, cable tie catches on pocket and opens blade, wouldn’t want to fall and have the blade open though!

[gummibear]

I only use 2 out of my set of 5 for maintenance of edges.

Yeah medium and fine and a leather strop to polish the blade.

[geomark]

My ride knife too, have seen some people put a cable tie onto the hollowed out bit to make it an automatic, cable tie catches on pocket and opens blade, wouldn’t want to fall and have the blade open though!

That's what the hooks on the back of the blade are for on both models, to snag on clothing and open the blade when you have to pull it out fast, you usually see the cable tie mod on blades that don't have the hook but also helps with thumb indexing. The emerson has a small disc for the thumb indexing but still find the honeybadger opens easier.

[MphatiPyga]

That's what the hooks on the back of the blade are for on both models, to snag on clothing and open the blade when you have to pull it out fast, you usually see the cable tie mod on blades that don't have the hook but also helps with thumb indexing. The emerson has a small disc for the thumb indexing but still find the honeybadger opens easier.

I have the model without the hook, didn't even notice that in the pic,I blame the heat

[DJR]

Not a pocket knife story, but perhaps some will find the process of how a piece of steel becomes a knife interesting?! I certainly found it fascinating and if I learnt anything from it, then it is that good hand made knives are absolute bargains at any price. The amount of skill, sweat and time that go into it is just plain incredible. What appears to be a fairly simple tool, hides many hours of hard work, but it is a tool that can last a lifetime and more. D and I were incredibly fortunate that a good friend offered to take us through the process of making a classic fixed blade each in his workshop. We have been at it for 2 solid weekends so far and we still have some way to go.

 

Here is the story:

 

You start out by drawing your design on paper, transfer it to hard plastic, cut it out, shape it as if you are shaping the knife and drill guide holes for pins. The white plastic template is Ds', the blue one is mine. Then it is scribed onto the stock steel and cut out roughly with a band saw. The black shape lower left is what you then have.

[DJR]

The steel is still soft at this stage so you want to get the greatest bulk removed and the basic shaping right before it is hardened. The outline is shaped with horizontal and vertical sanding belts. The hollow grind is done on a  wheel like in the picture. A dead steady hand is a huge help! Noobs like us used a jig, the pros do it free hand! You then end up with something that is starting to look like a knife, but don't let that fool you, there is a long way to go still.

[DJR]

SANDING! Lots of sanding, hours of sanding, days filled with sanding. First the aim is to remove all blemishes and to flatten the blade 100% Using strong magnets to hold the steel makes it easier on the hands. The more smoothing you get done now, the easier it will be later. Most of the holes in the tang just lightens the handle, but some are drilled with precision to accept the rivets for the bolster and the pins for the handle.

[DJR]

We used a steel called ATS34. It is a Japanese stainless steel with 1% carbon, 14% chromium, 4% molybdenum, 0.5% manganese. The heat treating process I found quite scientific and very precise:

 

The rough shaped blade is wrapped in clean rice paper, then in a thick aluminium pouch before it goes into the furnace at exactly 1050 degrees C for exactly 16 minutes. In the furnace, the paper burns off and uses up the oxygen in the pouch, so the heat treating happens mostly in the absence of oxygen. The chances of getting burn marks in the metal is then reduced. The ATS34 is designed to cool slowly, so it is not quenched in oil or water, but it is immediately clamped in a vice to prevent warping of the blade and allowed to cool to room temperature. At this stage the blade is too hard and brittle, dropping it on a hard surface can shatter it. Next it goes into a container of liquid nitrogen at -196 degrees C. (Overnight in a freezer at - 30 also works) Then back to room temperature before it goes into an oven for 2 hours at exactly 180 degrees C. Then room temperature, then 2 more hours at 180 degrees in the oven. The final tempering brings the Rockwell hardness to 60.

 

There are certainly other ways to do it, but I liked the very precise and scientific approach as opposed to heat it up till it is red and stick it in the water.

 

Afterwards you can hear the difference when you tap the blade, it rings like a bell where previously it sounded dull. 

[DJR]

Oh, and all your pretty shine is suddenly missing, so, guess what's next, yes MORE SANDING! And this time the steel is hard! We decided on a satin finish (800 grit) for the blade but a rough hollow grind (120 grit). The final hollow grind is done on the wheel and that finishes the final shape of the blade. Getting everything symmetrical is difficult. Then you make the brass bolsters, drill holes and rivet them in place. To get that square and symmetrical is near impossible. Now it really starts to look like something, doesn't it?

[DJR]

This is where it becomes a woodwork project, but getting the wood flat, square and fitting flush against the steel and brass is easier said than done. Holes are drilled for the brass pins and everything is assembled and glued with epoxy left overnight to cure properly. 

[DJR]

The handle is made from a single piece of wood, split down the middle, so that the grain on the left and the right will match. We used Ironwood and damn, it really is hard, but once we started shaping the handle the patterns started showing! First the flats and then the outline is shaped. Last is the rounding off. This is all done free hand on the sanding belts and wheels. This is where the little mistakes you made earlier become visible, but it is also where you first see what your knife is going to look like!   

[DJR]

Now it is back to sanding the handle while the blade is protected with masking tape. When that is finished the edge is put on the blade and it gets a final buffing. Hopefully we will get that done in the next week or so and I can post the final pictures.

[Pieter1]

Now it is back to sanding the handle while the blade is protected with masking tape. When that is finished the edge is put on the blade and it gets a final buffing. Hopefully we will get that done in the next week or so and I can post the final pictures.

Jis man. This is really nice! Well done!!!

[Goodbadugly]

Now it is back to sanding the handle while the blade is protected with masking tape. When that is finished the edge is put on the blade and it gets a final buffing. Hopefully we will get that done in the next week or so and I can post the final pictures.

Some okes start the grinding AFTER heat treatment. That way they only have to go through all the grits on the sanding once(or that is what they say) Just take care not to overheat the blade. Have you tried this before?