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Exactly. :)

 

I can change to 2x10, but its going to cost me and I quite like the 1x10, just thought maybe I was a bit weak for a 34t up front... looks like I'll just have to give it some more time... kinda force myself to get stronger :)

 

For us to give you a good response give us a little more detail:

 

1. your age?

2. how long have you been riding?

3. how often have you ridden in this time as per 2?

4. are you in a healthy weight range?

5. doing any other sports?

6. what is the terrain you plan to ride?

7. what was the distance of these 2 rides? (i think most people will feel a bit drained on the 2nd if the 1st was a 200km sprint....)

For us to give you a good response give us a little more detail:

 

1. your age? 30

2. how long have you been riding? 1.5 years

3. how often have you ridden in this time as per 2? 1-2 rides per week in winter / 3-5 rides per week in summer

4. are you in a healthy weight range? Yes

5. doing any other sports? No

6. what is the terrain you plan to ride?

7. what was the distance of these 2 rides? (i think most people will feel a bit drained on the 2nd if the 1st was a 200km sprint....) nothing near 200km. 1st ride was 12.0km/378m climbing... 2nd ride was 14.3km/372m climbing

 

Answers above. Don't really do many huge rides, probably 30-40km max in summer... But then I have a 2x10 29er that I can use :)

For me (I ride 650b) there was a HUGE diff going from 36 to 34.

I had a 32 on for Sani, but that was because I didnt know what to expect, I could have done it with a 34 too.

 

Thanks, so a 32 will make a very noticeable difference from 34, perhaps I should try that :)

 

It doesnt matter what you are running if you are pushing...

No, it wasn't that bad, no pushing for me, just a short break every here and there. The problem was mainly the downhill, I was so worn out I could barely concentrate... never mind jumps and so on...

 

Ride a singlespeed for a month, then get back on the 34. You'll have so many gears you won't know what to do with them all.

 

Hahaha... Don't think I'm going to get away with buying a third bike just yet :)

if you want to know the difference, here is a rough estimate:

 

Each 2 tooth cog upfront is close enough to a 2 tooth spread at the back.

 

So on the back the 11 doesnt have a 2 tooth brother, but the 12,14,16,18 are all two step variables.

 

So running 36-12, 34-11 are less than 5 % apart, which makes for about 90 mm different each revolution of the wheel.

 

You can get a feeling for the difference running on your cassette. I found running 2 teeth larger at the front make me run 1 gear higher in the cassette, I run 34, so dropping to 32 lets me run one lower. This means you only really have meaningful differences in the top and bottom cogs in the cassette.

Edited by kennyg

Answers above. Don't really do many huge rides, probably 30-40km max in summer... But then I have a 2x10 29er that I can use :)

 

Yes that is a lot of elevation for the short distances, are you riding enduro courses?

 

According to me your physical condition says you can keep the 34 and just try a bit harder now, it will get easier.

Yes that is a lot of elevation for the short distances, are you riding enduro courses?

 

According to me your physical condition says you can keep the 34 and just try a bit harder now, it will get easier.

 

So basically those questions were an assessment to see if the cup of cement you just prescribed would be fatal?

 

:thumbup:

For us to give you a good response give us a little more detail:

 

1. your age?

2. how long have you been riding?

3. how often have you ridden in this time as per 2?

4. are you in a healthy weight range?

5. doing any other sports?

6. what is the terrain you plan to ride?

7. what was the distance of these 2 rides? (i think most people will feel a bit drained on the 2nd if the 1st was a 200km sprint....)

 

you left out his

- name

- Marital status

- Cell No

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