droo Posted January 14, 2016 Share Ok, so here's a possibility - the material is way to soft. Over time the pivot points of the pawls wear as we can see in the picture to a point that the pawls can over extend. The broken pawl then hooks on the tooth of the outer ring (where the crush mark is - looks like a "v" doesn't it?), instead of in the recess, force is applied and instead of going through the pivot point, it goes through a line 90 degrees to the axle and fails as we see in the picture? Alu is a really stupid material to make freehub bodies out of, for a few reasons. But weight is the ultimate goal for many, so the rest of us are left with parts made of cheese. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Knoetze (sk27) Posted January 14, 2016 Share Still nothing from Dick??Maybe he's hammered.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeTurbo Posted January 14, 2016 Share Truly appawling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptor-22 Posted January 14, 2016 Share not very engaging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopkop Posted January 14, 2016 Share Please get it fixed Dick so we can get to riding this weeknd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted January 15, 2016 Share how often do you ride the wheels. I've owned two sets over the last few years and both rear hub bearing s haven't last longer than 18months.In comparison to DT Swiss 240 s and Chris King ISO Disc that have never had the bearings replaced, just cleaned and regreasedI am sorry you have had such a bad experience with what is worldly reknowned as being the 'fit and forget' standard hub on the market. I have had 2 Hope Hubs. 1 Geared and the other a SS trials one. The SS hub has done gazillions of km, Freedom challenges, Trans alps, Lesotho sky and various other adventures, stage races and thousands of hours training in all conditions all on its original bearings. The geared one has also been hammered in some very inhospitable places and conditions. They are made to survive British winter. Which they do with aplomb. On the other hand I had a set of Chris King which gave me endless hours of hassle. I also have DT swill 240s on my road bike and Geared MTB now which are awesome, but things like adaptors and bits are expensive and not that easy to come by compared to the Hope stuff. I also know Danny Macaskill rode a Hope hub for 7 years without servicing it or changing the bearings. He has it framed in his house. I am not discounting you having had troubles, just that perhaps it isn't the general rule of thumb. ie Me and Chris King. My mate cracked 2 Alu hope free bodies in 2 years before buying a steel one which seems to have done the trick. OP. Product defaults and reinstallment mishaps often run hand in hand. I suggest getting a steel free body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belgarath Posted January 15, 2016 Share If that is the through axle shimano freehub body, they break quite often from what I hear Wish it was thu-axle, but no. Lightweight that's supposed to go with the lightweight marathon bike, but I've been jumping and riding rocky Magaliesberg. Replaced the whole hub with something heavier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky DQ Posted January 15, 2016 Share Still nothing from Dick??Maybe he's hammered..........Was waiting to see all you guys thoughts and seeing it id now Friday here are my comments:1. One of the bearings collapsed 2 days before. (so this could have caused the marks on the pawl)2. Apparently only 1 bearing was replaced (If I had done the job I would have replaced both as my feeling is if one bearing collapses the other one would take strain during the period before eventual failure. In addition the age would also mean it would have more ware than the new one.)3. I stripped the free body this time as I was gatvol (No moering tools were used)4. The Bearings are so rough they feel as if they have spend a month riding in swamp underwater.5. My thoughts were that it may have been clamped in a vice just too tight to fit the bearings (assuming the shop does not have a press) All the above notwithstanding, I cannot believe that the damage took place on the last ride and if it did take place when the bearing collapsed initially the following should apply:a. It should have been picked up when replacing the bearing (I do not know which one was replaced, but only the outboard one would have been able to have been replaced, the broken part is obstructing removal of the inboard bearing.b. There should have been damage to the "gears" hub side.c. If it did occur on this ride there would need to have been something left behind in the cavity between the freebody and the hub, which there was not. So in retrospect, the only way I can think this happend was through negligence, or am I missing something? Bike is back at the shop and I am taking it up with them so, No I will not be naming and shaming, as it should be resolved amicably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie1 Posted January 15, 2016 Share Could it possibly be bad shifting habbits? just asking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ichnusa Posted January 15, 2016 Share Was waiting to see all you guys thoughts and seeing it id now Friday here are my comments:1. One of the bearings collapsed 2 days before. (so this could have caused the marks on the pawl)2. Apparently only 1 bearing was replaced (If I had done the job I would have replaced both as my feeling is if one bearing collapses the other one would take strain during the period before eventual failure. In addition the age would also mean it would have more ware than the new one.)3. I stripped the free body this time as I was gatvol (No moering tools were used)4. The Bearings are so rough they feel as if they have spend a month riding in swamp underwater.5. My thoughts were that it may have been clamped in a vice just too tight to fit the bearings (assuming the shop does not have a press) All the above notwithstanding, I cannot believe that the damage took place on the last ride and if it did take place when the bearing collapsed initially the following should apply:a. It should have been picked up when replacing the bearing (I do not know which one was replaced, but only the outboard one would have been able to have been replaced, the broken part is obstructing removal of the inboard bearing.b. There should have been damage to the "gears" hub side.c. If it did occur on this ride there would need to have been something left behind in the cavity between the freebody and the hub, which there was not. So in retrospect, the only way I can think this happend was through negligence, or am I missing something? Bike is back at the shop and I am taking it up with them so, No I will not be naming and shaming, as it should be resolved amicably. As I said.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpedro Posted January 15, 2016 Share "too much power"....Bwahahaahaaa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SURFER Posted January 15, 2016 Share I had similar problem after bearing replacement by LBS on my American Classic. They did not insert the bearing (inside bearing) deep enough, therefore creating more space between free body (paws) and where it grips on axial. Due to this additional space(play) between, the paws moved slightly away from fee body when engaging and got ripped. Not sure if this is the same problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aurora Posted January 15, 2016 Share I have only seen this happen once. I used to work at a bike shop and a client brought his freehub body in (think it was DT 240) and looked very similar to this. The end story was that he had tried to change the bearings himself and thinking he was clever, he put the end of the freehub into a vice to hold it steady while trying to release the bearings, not realising he had over tightened the vice putting extra stress onto the freehub body. On his next ride, disaster struck with a badly damaged freehub body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptor-22 Posted January 15, 2016 Share a DTSwiss freebody looks nothing like the hub in question freebody. Its doesn't have pawls either as its a ring drive system similar in concept to Chris King Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the nerd Posted January 16, 2016 Share a DTSwiss freebody looks nothing like the hub in question freebody. Its doesn't have pawls either as its a ring drive system similar in concept to Chris KingHe could be referring to a lower end dt hub. In which case it would have pawls like other hubs do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted January 17, 2016 Share He could be referring to a lower end dt hub. In which case it would have pawls like other hubs do.The 240 is not a lower end DT Swiss hub. It is at the premium end of their range. Very light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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