rudi-h Posted October 16, 2017 Posted October 16, 2017 my recent frustration with road bike wheel problems... 1) used to ride a raleigh RC3000. probably did 20000km on the bike with no issues... at some point the rear wheel went out of true and can't get it sorted. Had it to cycle lab 2 times and to another local shop. I had my own hand at truing it (got pretty good because had to redo it after every ride) but no matter what I do it won't stay trued. If i true it perfectly before a ride, it's out so far that it rubs against the brake pad at around 40km. At 100km its so far out the tyre touches the seat stay 2) new bike is a merida scultura 5000 disc. snapped two spokes in ~1700km of riding this year. Also had the wheel rebuilt by cycle lab, so i'm assuming they would have applied to correct spoke tension etc. not as irritating, because the discs makes that I don't have brake pads rubbing against a wobbly wheel, but still annoying to have to do work on a brand new bike this whole spoke issue is new to me, anyone have similar issues on road bikes?
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted October 16, 2017 Author Posted October 16, 2017 my recent frustration with road bike wheel problems... 1) used to ride a raleigh RC3000. probably did 20000km on the bike with no issues... at some point the rear wheel went out of true and can't get it sorted. Had it to cycle lab 2 times and to another local shop. I had my own hand at truing it (got pretty good because had to redo it after every ride) but no matter what I do it won't stay trued. If i true it perfectly before a ride, it's out so far that it rubs against the brake pad at around 40km. At 100km its so far out the tyre touches the seat stay 2) new bike is a merida scultura 5000 disc. snapped two spokes in ~1700km of riding this year. Also had the wheel rebuilt by cycle lab, so i'm assuming they would have applied to correct spoke tension etc. not as irritating, because the discs makes that I don't have brake pads rubbing against a wobbly wheel, but still annoying to have to do work on a brand new bike this whole spoke issue is new to me, anyone have similar issues on road bikes?On bike 1, it sounds like the spokes had such uneven tension to get the rim straight, it would just not stay that way. That rim should have been replaced. On the Merida, sounds like typical stock wheels not built very well.My advice would be to have the rear wheel completely rebuilt with new spokes. They snap due to metal fatigue caused by improper tensions from the start. Essentially you're in for new spokes and nipples and the cost of a rebuild. PM me if you need more info. AdamA, rudi-h and Long Wheel Base 3
Letum911 Posted October 16, 2017 Posted October 16, 2017 Saw them on your IG. If you don't mind please share the IG link. Sharing is caring! PS. Nick those are stunning!!
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted October 16, 2017 Author Posted October 16, 2017 https://www.instagram.com/wheelbuilder_jhb/ IH8MUD and Letum911 2
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted October 18, 2017 Author Posted October 18, 2017 Wheels I'm currently busy with: Crest Mk3 on Hopes. 1693g without tape or valves. Kalahari Vegmot and Eddy Gordo 2
Long Wheel Base Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 What do you guys use on the spoke threads when building wheels? Have had issues before with spokes coming loose on my rolf tandem wheels. About to build a set of carbon wheels for the tandem and don't want to have issues with spokes coming loose. David Marshall 1
David Marshall Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 What do you guys use on the spoke threads when building wheels? Have had issues before with spokes coming loose on my rolf tandem wheels. About to build a set of carbon wheels for the tandem and don't want to have issues with spokes coming loose.Locktite 290 but if there are enough spokes at the right tension it should not be necessary. Apply a drop to each nipple after building (and washing) the wheel. Long Wheel Base 1
Long Wheel Base Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 Locktite 290 but if there are enough spokes at the right tension it should not be necessary. Apply a drop to each nipple after building (and washing) the wheel.That is why I don't like my rolfs. They just don't have enough spokes, IMHO. The new wheels for my tandem are 36 front and rear. The rolfs are A LOT less(think its 20/24???). Have 2 sets of rolfs and after a rebuild on the one set they are a lot better so they obviously weren't built lekker to start with.Thanks for the info.
droo Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 Wheelsmith make a product called Spokeprep that does the job properly. Loctite tends to make the nipples impossible to adjust later in my experience. (Not a dig at you Dave, 290 may well do the job - just that in my experience Loctite on nipples is the devil) Simon Kolin and Long Wheel Base 2
Martin PJ Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 What do you guys use on the spoke threads when building wheels? Have had issues before with spokes coming loose on my rolf tandem wheels. About to build a set of carbon wheels for the tandem and don't want to have issues with spokes coming loose. I used threadlock, not as strong as Loctite, but similar. Old timers used Linseed oil, which would also work, it dries out and locks the spoke into place. But it can still be loosened, if necessary. Eddy Gordo and Long Wheel Base 2
lechatnoir Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 just that in my experience Loctite on nipples is the devil) don't knock it still you'e tried it droo... oh wait... on SPOKES??? Long Wheel Base 1
David Marshall Posted November 3, 2017 Posted November 3, 2017 Locktite 290 is the one! It will wick into the spoke threads when the wheel build is finished. There is usually enough lube left in the nipple to prevent it from bonding super tight. I have never had one stuck but if you do a quick heat with a gas lighter will soften it up - a trick I learnt from working on my Easton Circuits. Problem is it is not cheap - I have only found it in 50ml bottles at around R450. That is enough for more than a wheel! Long Wheel Base 1
nick_the_wheelbuilder Posted November 9, 2017 Author Posted November 9, 2017 I lube the spoke threads with oil or a light grease, but not the rim/nipple interface. That way, if sufficient tension is reached, there's enough friction between the rim and nipple to prevent loosening, but the nipples remain turnable for truing later on if need be.
Quagga Posted April 26, 2019 Posted April 26, 2019 (edited) Hey can you experts please shed some light here.Edit: You will see that I used a rim that is CLOSE to what I have as it does not allow to enter exact spec I have a Carbon Asymmetric rims with this spec.Laced to DT Swiss 350 Hubs 142 I used this calculator https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/ Now what I wanted to check was.Can I use this rear wheel in a Pyga frame with the Plus Five. From what I can see you add the 5mm to the HUB offset as the program says it moves the hub by that amount to the right. Here is what should be my current config This is what it should look like in a pyga and from what I can see all that needs to happen is a re-dish? Yes I know I can just give Droo a call but wanted to learn something :-) Edited April 26, 2019 by Quagga
MrJacques Posted April 26, 2019 Posted April 26, 2019 What do the pros here think of the book "The Art of Wheel Building by Gerd Schraner" ? He has an interesting spoking method.
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