Wheel building

[David Marshall]

If the wheel is built already you will just need to re dish 5 mm to the left.  If you are building it then those lengths of 284 and 285 are correct but you will have to build it 5 mm to the left.

[Jewbacca]

I've never used loctite on wheels.

 

Perhaps I am archaic but Linseed oil with a couple of drops of sewing machine oil mixed in has always done the job.

 

But then I am a luddite so....

[DJR]

........But then I am a luddite so....

No, no......."old skool"

[David Marshall]

What do the pros here think of the book "The Art of Wheel Building by Gerd Schraner" ?

 

He has an interesting spoking method.

Rather use Joobst Brand's "The Bicycle Wheel" or Roger Musson's "Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding".

 

Not wanting to criticise but if anyone wants my copy Gerd's book I am open to offers!

[David Marshall]

I've never used loctite on wheels.

 

Perhaps I am archaic but Linseed oil with a couple of drops of sewing machine oil mixed in has always done the job.

 

But then I am a luddite so....

I also never used LocTite until I had to repair 16 hole radial spoked wheels.

[MrJacques]

Rather use Joobst Brand's "The Bicycle Wheel" or Roger Musson's "Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding".

 

Not wanting to criticise but if anyone wants my copy Gerd's book I am open to offers!

 

Ok, thanks

 

Most of these books were written years ago and while the basics are still the same, do you think there are modern advancements in tech that warrant an update / extra info? E.g. the new Zipp single wall carbon rims that are designed to flex a bit.

[Quagga]

If the wheel is built already you will just need to re dish 5 mm to the left.  If you are building it then those lengths of 284 and 285 are correct but you will have to build it 5 mm to the left.

So asymmetric is still good on plus 5 frame. as in the it is not to far left to cause the left side to be dished like the right side off old?

[Shebeen]

Hey can you experts please shed some light here.

Edit: You will see that I used a rim that is CLOSE to what I have as it does not allow to enter exact spec

 

I have a Carbon Asymmetric rims with this spec.

RIM ERD.PNG

Laced to DT Swiss 350 Hubs 142

Hub Spec.PNG

 

I used this calculator 

https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/

 

Now what I wanted to check was.

Can I use this rear wheel in a Pyga frame with the Plus Five.

 

From what I can see you add the 5mm to the HUB offset as the program says it moves the hub by that amount to the right.

 

Here is what should be my current config

Normal hub.PNG

 

This is what it should look like in a pyga and from what I can see all that needs to happen is a re-dish?

plus 5 hub.PNG

 

Yes I know I can just give Droo a call but wanted to learn something :-)

building wheels is clearly above my paygrade!

[EddieV]

So asymmetric is still good on plus 5 frame. as in the it is not to far left to cause the left side to be dished like the right side off old?

Don’t know if I understand your question correctly. But I recently laced an asymmetric FRM rim to a dynamo hub and failed to recognize beforehand that the rim was asymmetric. Turns out on a 285mm spoke the 5mm movement to the left only changes the spoke length by 0.5mm which is negligible. I often choose spokes 1mm shorter or longer when stock isn’t available ...

[David Marshall]

So asymmetric is still good on plus 5 frame. as in the it is not to far left to cause the left side to be dished like the right side off old?

Just seen this post now.  Yes, it will be fine.  I have just rebuilt a Fulcrum Passion wheel onto a boost.  Both the old and replacement rims are offset.

[smee "again"]

I have a fairly new set of Stans Crest that I used on my 2x10 non boost MTB, I have since got a new bike with a 1x12 boost and would like to convert the Stans Crest to fit the new bike. My questions are:-

 

    - is it worth making the change

    - what is it likely to cost (ballpark)

    - what will I need to make the change

[EddieV]

I have a fairly new set of Stans Crest that I used on my 2x10 non boost MTB, I have since got a new bike with a 1x12 boost and would like to convert the Stans Crest to fit the new bike. My questions are:-

 

    - is it worth making the change

    - what is it likely to cost (ballpark)

    - what will I need to make the change

Is the spoke count the same?

[smee "again"]

Ill need to check, but wont I need a new hub as well?

[Quagga]

Do you want to use your current hubs and spoke and rims?

 If so you only need a boostanator.

 

Else if you want to take your rims and put them on the new hubs you might need spokes also 

[smee "again"]

Sorry, I think I was a bit vague.

 

I want to keep the current 1x12 boost wheels as is and replace whatever I need to on the current none boost wheels in order replicate the 1x12 boost wheels. Naturally I would need a rotor disk and cluster but what else?

[Quagga]

Sorry, I think I was a bit vague.

 

I want to keep the current 1x12 boost wheels as is and replace whatever I need to on the current none boost wheels in order replicate the 1x12 boost wheels. Naturally I would need a rotor disk and cluster but what else?

Just get a Boostanator for the current wheel front and rear so it can fit your new frame