Riding very rocky single track

[dev null]

BTW, my son reckons my stem is too long and my bike's wheelbase too short for my skill level.

[Thermophage]

Yep yep yep. Road setup on an mtb. Recipe for disaster as soon as you venture off the plaaspaie

 

Yeah at your height on a medium frame and a 110mm stem your weight is going to be very far forward. And with a rigid seatpost it will make getting your weight back more difficult too.

BUT...many people have ridden rocky stuff on "worse" setups.

Perhaps just drop your seatpost on the decents for now as an intermediate measure.

That way you can move around a little more freely on the bike without the saddle feeling like it may push you OTB.

Any perhaps every try to walk the section first to pick a line, then when you ride it try to stick to the line and lay off the brakes as much as possible. Carrying speed through rocks is massively important as if you're going slowly you don't roll over them...you stop and go flying. 

So, saddle down, walk for line choice and carry more speed and repeat and you should be good

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

BTW, my son reckons my stem is too long and my bike's wheelbase too short for my skill level.

You should listen to him...

 

I still stand firm on this. Mtb should have a stem no longer than 70mm in ANY circumstances.

[dev null]

Where have you ridden around CT that you consider to be very rocky ST? May help

 

This past Fine Breede was the rockiest I have ridden so far.  In fact, I don't want to see another rock for a month. 

[NicoBoshoff]

My stem is 110mm, and my front wheel at 1.6 and rear wheel at 1.8 bar.

Myles, you ok there?  Should we call for help?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Yeah at your height on a medium frame and a 110mm stem your weight is going to be very far forward. And with a rigid seatpost it will make getting your weight back more difficult too.

BUT...many people have ridden rocky stuff on "worse" setups.

Perhaps just drop your seatpost on the decents for now as an intermediate measure.

That way you can move around a little more freely on the bike without the saddle feeling like it may push you OTB.

Any perhaps every try to walk the section first to pick a line, then when you ride it try to stick to the line and lay off the brakes as much as possible. Carrying speed through rocks is massively important as if you're going slowly you don't roll over them...you stop and go flying.

So, saddle down, walk for line choice and carry more speed and repeat and you should be good

Dropper. Drop it like it's hot. Even on flat and hilly technical stuff, just a little bit of drop makes it infinitely easier to maneuver

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Myles, you ok there? Should we call for help?

Drowning, not waving.

[Baracuda]

In addition to the advice above on getting your weight back, shorter stems and dropping your saddle a little; I also used to battle with rocks until a mate who has exceptional skills asked me "why are you riding around them and trying to keep off them? They nice and solid and generally have good grip. You should use the rocks, ride over them and choose a more proactive route through them. 

 

Then there is Minaar's advice:

 

Keeping your head up and looking forward and  keeping your elbows up and loose helps a lot. Focus on flow and panche rather than forcing your way over stuff.

[Grey Hubs]

This past Fine Breede was the rockiest I have ridden so far.  In fact, I don't want to see another rock for a month. 

I would agree with lack of confidence and in my case, (without me even knowing it) I tense up with rigid arms and legs. I think you then become a seesaw where your weight moves dramatically forward when the front wheel sticks. Hence OTB. I guess the key is to relax and be flexible enough to shift weight forward and back quickly.

At least that's what I'm trying to tell myself...

[Thermophage]

This past Fine Breede was the rockiest I have ridden so far.  In fact, I don't want to see another rock for a month. 

Lol...and I WISH there were loads more rocks about.

You could also try a shorter stem, but not sure how that would fare with your medium frame and height.

Although going to an 80mm should still be ok and put you a little back on the bike.

 

You ride Tygerberg MTB trails a lot? If so, gimme a PM sometime and I'd be happy to give ya some pointers, not that I'm a particularly good rider But I REALLY do like the more technical stuff.

Honestly it really is just the top of the Black Route at Contermans starting from the mast that's rocky or the jeeptrack just down from the cement in Contermans that I can think of off-hand.

 

But yeah advice above helped me and that's what I do if I want to improve on a line. Also watching other people riding the same section helps a LOT. You realise quickly that you're not going to die if you try something, etc.

[dev null]

Been looking at a Giant 29er for a while, but the funds just aint there at the moment.  So, in the short term I will put on a shorter stem, but, it already feels like I am sitting too high on the bike, like I am not part of it.

[RockCoach]

What everyone else said ^^^

 

Try a short stem but increase handlebar width at the same time. There are lots of benefits but in rock gardens you should find that you have more leverage to control the movement of the front wheel beneath you. Also centres you more over the bike so getting weight back is easier.

 

Get your body in the right position*. That is balanced on the pedals with light grip on bars.

 

Learn to relax*. The rocks sense fear. Any stiff limbs will result in them grabbing your wheels.

 

Drop your saddle.

 

You want to keep your head as still as possible while your arms and legs move up and down in phase with the terrain. Imagine the bike pivoting back and forth beneath you while your body and head are still.

 

If steep dowhill control your speed on smooth sections. Don't brake in the holes. Release momentarily to allow the bike to roll through them.

 

Don't fear the front brake. You just have to momentarilty rock even further backwards to compensate for the weight transferring forwards.

 

Good luck!

 

* denotes the two most important points for riding anything.

[BaGearA]

First of all ask your self why downhillers are still riding 26 or 27.5 nor 29ers , because 29ers aren't always better.

 

Focus on line choice , get a little shorter stem 80mm/90mm and practice. There Is NO need to buy a 29er to solve your problem

 

Go to a section you find a little difficult and just ride it , THEN go walk it and focus on looking for a smooth path either in between the rocks or riding over some them to avoid others.Just look for the fastest smoothest possible line.

I'm 100% confident the second time you will go through faster.

Now continue doing this with challenging sections.

Over time you will be become more alert , confident and fast .

 

Remember progress takes time  and buying a bike won't necessarily fix your problem.

The stem is a cheap upgrade that can make a huge difference on its own.

After this you can try slightly more beefier tyres

 

Good luck 

[RocknRolla]

Check your shock pressure in addition to the advice above.

Too low in front with too much rebound at the back adds to your situation possibly

[Martin PJ]

I second the 29er with dropper seat post advice.

 

Also you need to practice on rocks to ride rocks, if that makes sense. I ride often in a local area which is pretty rocky in places, but nothing hectic, all rideable. I don't consider myself very skilled, but in a race when it gets rocky or rooty, I seem to cope a lot better than the guys I am with.

[Mojoman]

Are you using SPD's? I found that changing to flats for a while helped me build up some confidence and learn how to use momentum and lift my wheels etc.