Post your woodwork here

[Capricorn]

what sort of weather proofing/stripping do y'all apply retrospectively to woodframed windows and doors, that works?
i'm looking for weather stripping that is housed in a recess. I don't like the lack of aesthetic appeal that goes with the stick-on stuff.

[Hairy]

what sort of weather proofing/stripping do y'all apply retrospectively to woodframed windows and doors, that works?

i'm looking for weather stripping that is housed in a recess. I don't like the lack of aesthetic appeal that goes with the stick-on stuff.

Pitchas of the problem area please

[Capricorn]

Pitchas of the problem area please

it's not so much a particular problem area. Just the general aspect of retrofitting weather sealing stripping to the jams. I've found that the stick-on stuff tends to not stay stuck. Yes, the finger should rightfully point toward the lack of surface prep.

[Hairy]

it's not so much a particular problem area. Just the general aspect of retrofitting weather sealing stripping to the jams. I've found that the stick-on stuff tends to not stay stuck. Yes, the finger should rightfully point toward the lack of surface prep.

Still a pitcha please, even if via pm

[RocknRolla]

I need some help.

 

My wife wants to defile a very special coffee table that we own. It was a gift from a family member.

 

I don’t know what wood it is but I know it’s not cheap and it’s super solid. Our furniture has been replaced by slightly lighter colours and my wife wants to lighten the colour of this beauty by sanding it down and putting a wash on it. How can she accomplish this without effing the wood up so I can sand it down later and “refurbish” it back to normal?

 

Look at using one of the oils from Jax Oleum, or Morell's.

 

They have some subtle "wash" colours that still keeps the wood grain intact.

 

But Never, ever paint solid wood a solid colour... not even Pine.

[patches]

Question Here:

 

My next little project is to make a magnetic knife rack. Design and procurement are complete. It's one aspect of the manufacturing methodology that I'm a little fuzzy on, and perhaps those here may have some good insights.

 

The Materials:

 

American Hard Maple (24mm thick, rough sawn)

5-off 80x9x9mm neodymium magnets.

 

The Design:

 

I'm going for a scandi/mid-century modern look, with tapered edges and smooth lines.

 

Here's a basic 3D model I threw together.

 

 

 

The Challenge:

 

Once wood is milled down, I'll print a scale template and attach to the piece. Cut the bulk out non the band saw, then refine on the belt sander.

 

However the 13mm radii on each corner are perplexing me. Ideally I'd use a round-over bit and the routing table, but as the long side of the design is a curve, that may not work.

 

My other idea was cut the curve as best as possible (but slightly shy of the line) on the bandsaw then fine tune on the belt sander, much like the majority of the piece.

 

But perhaps someone here has a better idea that is likely to produce a more consistent result?

Keen to hear your thoughts!

[porqui]

I need some help.

 

My wife wants to defile a very special coffee table that we own. It was a gift from a family member.

 

I don’t know what wood it is but I know it’s not cheap and it’s super solid. Our furniture has been replaced by slightly lighter colours and my wife wants to lighten the colour of this beauty by sanding it down and putting a wash on it. How can she accomplish this without effing the wood up so I can sand it down later and “refurbish” it back to normal?

 

Rather get another table and keep it as is.(you say it is a very special Table)

 

As you will NEVER be able to reverse it.

[stefmeister]

Question Here:

 

My next little project is to make a magnetic knife rack. Design and procurement are complete. It's one aspect of the manufacturing methodology that I'm a little fuzzy on, and perhaps those here may have some good insights.

 

The Materials:

 

American Hard Maple (24mm thick, rough sawn)

5-off 80x9x9mm neodymium magnets.

 

The Design:

 

I'm going for a scandi/mid-century modern look, with tapered edges and smooth lines.

 

Here's a basic 3D model I threw together.

 

KM_01.PNG

 

KM_02.PNG

 

The Challenge:

 

Once wood is milled down, I'll print a scale template and attach to the piece. Cut the bulk out non the band saw, then refine on the belt sander.

 

However the 13mm radii on each corner are perplexing me. Ideally I'd use a round-over bit and the routing table, but as the long side of the design is a curve, that may not work.

 

My other idea was cut the curve as best as possible (but slightly shy of the line) on the bandsaw then fine tune on the belt sander, much like the majority of the piece.

 

But perhaps someone here has a better idea that is likely to produce a more consistent result?

 

Keen to hear your thoughts!

If it’s a stationary belt sander with table, just sneak up to your lines with the sander. If you’re just clamping a belt sander in a vice, fashion the same setup that ensures the most control of the workpiece.

 

When your workpiece is smaller than the tool it’s usually safer to bring the piece to the tool.

 

Otherwise make a template of the radius required and use a router with a flush trim/following bit.

[Rocket-Boy]

Question Here:

 

My next little project is to make a magnetic knife rack. Design and procurement are complete. It's one aspect of the manufacturing methodology that I'm a little fuzzy on, and perhaps those here may have some good insights.

 

The Materials:

 

American Hard Maple (24mm thick, rough sawn)

5-off 80x9x9mm neodymium magnets.

 

The Design:

 

I'm going for a scandi/mid-century modern look, with tapered edges and smooth lines.

 

Here's a basic 3D model I threw together.

 

KM_01.PNG

 

KM_02.PNG

 

The Challenge:

 

Once wood is milled down, I'll print a scale template and attach to the piece. Cut the bulk out non the band saw, then refine on the belt sander.

 

However the 13mm radii on each corner are perplexing me. Ideally I'd use a round-over bit and the routing table, but as the long side of the design is a curve, that may not work.

 

My other idea was cut the curve as best as possible (but slightly shy of the line) on the bandsaw then fine tune on the belt sander, much like the majority of the piece.

 

But perhaps someone here has a better idea that is likely to produce a more consistent result?

 

Keen to hear your thoughts!

If you have access to a 3D printer then these work a treat.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2438336

I have printed a bunch in different sizes and it should still give a consistent result on the curved edge.

[Ed-Zulu]

I need some help.

 

My wife wants to defile a very special coffee table that we own. It was a gift from a family member.

 

I don’t know what wood it is but I know it’s not cheap and it’s super solid. Our furniture has been replaced by slightly lighter colours and my wife wants to lighten the colour of this beauty by sanding it down and putting a wash on it. How can she accomplish this without effing the wood up so I can sand it down later and “refurbish” it back to normal?

I have a better suggestion that might work...

 

Sand it down, then bleach the top layer with oxilic acid. It will lighten a thin layer of wood which you can seal with varnish or whatever you choose.

 

Later when this get's old, you can cut back through the bleached fibres back into the original colour.

[stefmeister]

I need some help.

 

My wife wants to defile a very special coffee table that we own. It was a gift from a family member.

 

I don’t know what wood it is but I know it’s not cheap and it’s super solid. Our furniture has been replaced by slightly lighter colours and my wife wants to lighten the colour of this beauty by sanding it down and putting a wash on it. How can she accomplish this without effing the wood up so I can sand it down later and “refurbish” it back to normal?

 

Try some Rubio monocoat - use one of the colors that has white pigment in it (either the Natural, Smoke or White), it's super easy to apply, and it'll give a natural look that might suit your wife's need for a lighter, more modern looking finish.

https://www.rubiomonocoat.com/en/c/kleuren/cat/interior/rmc-oil-plus-2c#rmc-oil-plus-2c

 

Sand the table down to 180 g, raise the grain with a wet rag between grits, sand smooth, and wipe on wipe off the monocoat.

It's a one coat oil finish, easy to apply, easy to touch up, and easy to remove if it doesn't work for you.

[Rocket-Boy]

I have a better suggestion that might work...

 

Sand it down, then bleach the top layer with oxilic acid. It will lighten a thin layer of wood which you can seal with varnish or whatever you choose.

 

Later when this get's old, you can cut back through the bleached fibres back into the original colour.

Oxalic acid is a bit of a con in SA, Wooddoc has it in large plastic cans with a tiny little bag of the stuff. Its much cheaper to just buy it from a chemical supplier and use it like that.

I have had limited success with treating Garapa decking though so Im not sure how effective it is on wood with high oil content.

[stefmeister]

Oxalic acid is a bit of a con in SA, Wooddoc has it in large plastic cans with a tiny little bag of the stuff. Its much cheaper to just buy it from a chemical supplier and use it like that.

I have had limited success with treating Garapa decking though so Im not sure how effective it is on wood with high oil content.

I've had some success with caustic soda and neutralising afterwards with peracetic acid. But it's still like some stains where you get uneven absorption in teh grain. Iirc I experimented with a few species, but specifically with maple to prevent it from going yellow with ageing. 

2/10, would not recommend bleaching wood.

[patches]

If it’s a stationary belt sander with table, just sneak up to your lines with the sander. If you’re just clamping a belt sander in a vice, fashion the same setup that ensures the most control of the workpiece.

 

When your workpiece is smaller than the tool it’s usually safer to bring the piece to the tool.

 

Otherwise make a template of the radius required and use a router with a flush trim/following bit.

 

Fortunately I do have access to a stationary belt sander, so sneaking up on it will probably be the best way forward.

 

If you have access to a 3D printer then these work a treat.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2438336

I have printed a bunch in different sizes and it should still give a consistent result on the curved edge.

 

On the Christmas list!

 

But that may be ages away. Definitely keen to explore the possibilities that a 3D printer will open for jigs and templates!

 

Which printer do you use?

 

Whilst I have over 17 years experience in 3D modelling, I have zero experience when it comes to 3D printers, so I'm looking at the Creality Ender 3 v2 as a beginners setup.

[patches]

I love SB's channel, I would absolutely have asked him for a quote if I was in Auckland.

 

hahaha until you see what tradies charge over here 

 

Here's a snapshot of a quote I got for some basic building, electrical, plumbing and gas work

 

 

That's nearly half of what the kitchen cabinets and counters cost. It's insane!

 

So I did as much as I could myself (skill wise and regulation wise). Still got a plumber, gas fitter and electrician out. But despite that, the estimated total savings are around between $9,000 and $10,000.

[Ed-Zulu]

Oxalic acid is a bit of a con in SA, Wooddoc has it in large plastic cans with a tiny little bag of the stuff. Its much cheaper to just buy it from a chemical supplier and use it like that.

I have had limited success with treating Garapa decking though so Im not sure how effective it is on wood with high oil content.

It's the business on Balau decking, bleaches it it a nice light honey colour