Post your woodwork here

[V12man]

Question for you home improvement fundis. You see that crap wall of mine.

 

I want to cover it with some dry walling.  Do I use the 1200mm widths of the standard dry wall widths, or do I trim it to follow the roof trusses which is spaced 1080mm apart?

 

And what is the best isolation for filling in behind the dry walling to make my garage warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer?

Won't you run the sheet across the roof trusses? This makes it easier to pin to them.

 

I you can level out the trusses with shims first then you won't have much rhinolite work to do... provide you look carefully at the sheets before you install them - they have indents for tape if you look carefully.

[V12man]

On mine, the moving part keep on getting stuck.  Then I have to moer it with a hammer to get moving again.

OK - not a problem I have with mine not that I use them a lot, so removing spiderwebs is more of a problem than moering them.

[dev null]

Won't you run the sheet across the roof trusses? This makes it easier to pin to them.

 

I you can level out the trusses with shims first then you won't have much rhinolite work to do... provide you look carefully at the sheets before you install them - they have indents for tape if you look carefully.

 

No, I actually want to cover the wall, but anal like I am as usual, I was thinking of aligning the lengthwise (running from top to bottom of wall) battens to which the drywall will be screwed with the trusses.

Edited July 15, 2016 by Moridin

[V12man]

No, I actually want to cover the wall, but anal like I am as usual, I was thinking of aligning the lengthwise (running from top to bottom of wall) battens to which the drywall will be screwed with the trusses.

The problem is you only have the edges to tie the drywall screws to (half a truss thickness is too close to the edge) - and the sheets bend over time when they have insufficient support - so orient the sheet where you can screw to the most places possible, and stay away from the edges of the sheet ito screwing - they just break out, and your ocd will freak out...

 

Also - please find a good dust mask to use - gypsum dust is a nightmare for lungs... a cartridge based mask, or a pressure fed air mask.

 

You could consider using fibre cement boards in a garage (better fire rating) - and make sure you use the fireproof ones if you use ordinary gypsum boards.

[Guest notmyname]

No, I actually want to cover the wall, but anal like I am as usual, I was thinking of aligning the lengthwise (running from top to bottom of wall) battens to which the drywall will be screwed with the trusses.

Sorry I'm picking up stompies here but why don't you just plaster with a lite weight thermo insulating cement?

[dev null]

Sorry I'm picking up stompies here but why don't you just plaster with a lite weight thermo insulating cement?

 

Because then I have to first remove the paint from the walls, and get somebody to do the plastering.  This I can do myself.

[Pants Boy]

There's an oom in Witbank (If I'm not mistaken), Renier de Beer that recently went through a hell of a lot of trouble to have moulds made for pipe clamps. He's busy shipping his first batch at R280 ea. They look really well designed.

 

 

Give him a call on 082 717 8337 or find him on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/renier.debeer.927

 

 

[Eddy Gordo]

I think you just need to key coat the wall first then you can replaster

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I think you just need to key coat the wall first then you can replaster

Sugar soap, key coat, and in special cases chip (key) the wall... Or just use a wall-chaser

Edited July 15, 2016 by Myles Mayhew

[Pants Boy]

There's an oom in Witbank (If I'm not mistaken), Renier de Beer that recently went through a hell of a lot of trouble to have moulds made for pipe clamps. He's busy shipping his first batch at R280 ea. They look really well designed.

 

pipe.jpg

 

Give him a call on 082 717 8337 or find him on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/renier.debeer.927

*Krugersdorp. He still has some clamps available from the first batch,  maar jy moet gou spring

[Guest notmyname]

Sugar soap, key coat, and in special cases chip (key) the wall... Or just use a wall-chaser

Jip.

[Stretched@Birth]

Glued, clamped and sanded, now to begin with the top. Table is going to be heavy!

[Vetseun]

Glued, clamped and sanded, now to begin with the top. Table is going to be heavy!

Good work!

[@ndy]

Hi Grebs, thanks.

 

This is Dudley Dix designed boat called the Argie 10 (10foot/3.1m). www.dixdesign.com

 

There are a few good designers around, but Dix is South African and the boats have a pedigree. He designs a 15 foot on similar lines called the Argie 15, which will suit you very well for a family boat. Also a 3:1.

 

Edit: with full length seats though. have look around the builder projects, I'll send you a link to build file on the wooden boat forum on a South African in the US that built and Argie 15, lots to learn there.

 

See the link here --> http://www.dixdesign.com/argie15.htm

 

I recon the Argie 15 will take at least 200 - 250 hours, but there are people that did it in 180hours. I doubt the 180hours though. I built the Argie 10 to see if I understood the basics and also tried some higher grade stuff which worked out well.

 

I will now do an Argie 15 next, next winter, in the interim I'm building two SUP's out of plywood as soon as the Argie 10 is done. His plans are also very easy to read and the price is super affordable.

 

First, two SUP's in plywood for the boys

 

Do you have plans for the SUP's?

[Ed-Zulu]

Do you have plans for the SUP's?

Hi @ndy, looking at these at the moment. TBO have not found much more of a useful nature. There are others, but more in the paddle board shapes

 

  www.timelesssurfcompany.com

[dev null]

Just a note of warning.  Be very carefull when buying some old floor boards as recovered lumber.  Chances are good that these are littered with woodbugs. I was stupid and did not inspect before paying the dude, and now I am sitting with expensive firewood.