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First Ride: SRAM Eagle XX1


Iwan Kemp

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Lots been said about the size of the jumps in number of teeth between cogs........

 

What you have to remember is that it is proportional. So a 4 tooth jump from 11t to 15t would be horrendous - it changes the ratio by about 40% but a 4 tooth jump from 32t to 36t only changes the ratio by about 12%

 

So, on the Eagle cassette and other not-quite-as-wide-range cassettes like the Shimano 11-46, the big tooth difference between granny and 2nd gear is not quite as bad as it appears when you actually ride them.

 

In Shimano's case though I think they missed a trick. Their 11-46 XT cassette goes from 37t to 46t, a jump of 9 teeth. The gap is noticeable when you ride it.

 

I ride a 29er with 34 front ring and 11-46 rear. I can climb almost anything I need to ride in that 46 but it is noticeably slow and the only other option is the 37t which can be be a bit tough.

 

Shimano must have had a reason for their choice but the equivalent Sunrace cassette goes from 40t to 46t and I think it might suit me better - or I need to HTFU

 

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Edited by JXV
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Lots been said about the size of the jumps in number of teeth between cogs........

 

What you have to remember is that it is proportional. So a 4 tooth jump from 11t to 15t would be horrendous - it changes the ratio by about 40% but a 4 tooth jump from 32t to 36t only changes the ratio by about 12%

 

So, on the Eagle cassette and other almost-as-wide-range cassettes like the Shimano 11-46, the big tooth difference between granny and 2nd gear is not quite as bad as it appears when you actually ride them.

 

In Shimano's case though I think they missed a trick. Their 11-46 XT cassette goes from 37t to 46t, a jump of 9 teeth. The gap is noticeable when you ride it.

 

I ride a 29er with 34 front ring and 11-46 rear. I can climb almost anything I need to ride in that 46 but it is noticeably slow and the only other option is the 37t which can be be a bit tough.

 

Shimano must have had a reason for their choice but the equivalent Sunrace cassette goes from 40t to 46t and I think it might suit me better - or I need to HTFU

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

100% agreed. I think the Sunrace has far better spacing, personally. I'll be going that way when my present XT cassette wears out. 

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100% agreed. I think the Sunrace has far better spacing, personally. I'll be going that way when my present XT cassette wears out. 

 

 

And when you do need to replace it, contact Wayne / Kiwi / Rapide. Best prices you can get.

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What does 2x10 XX, XTR or XTR Di2 cost?

 

 

Ah, but I already have 2x10 XX.

 

My question above was other than the loss of FD and left hand shifter which  looks cooler,  why should I spend R28k to end up in the same position I am now except for bigger gaps in the ratio.

 

I have learnt :

 

Can mount dropper post on HB - valid argument, but I don't have a dropper;

Reduces or eliminates chain suck - valid argument;

 

 

Simplifies shifting - Mmmm, not so sure. The way I use my 2x10 is basically two 1x10 set-ups. If the terrain is flattish or rolling or downhill, I shift once to the big ring and moderate cadence/effort by moving up and down the cassette. If the terrain is primarily uphill or I need  quick but limited acceleration, I move to the small ring and move up and down at the back.  I try not to cross chain but either way the angle is not as acute as on a 1x albeit that that chain is designed to accommodate it.  But that is just me.

 

1x12 gives same range as 2x10 - OK, but is it worth R28k to get the same;

 

The gaps between ratios are bigger but that is apparently not noticeable and reduced by going 12x. Accepted, I have noticed it when fitting a 40 tooth to by Gravel grinder when touring in the berg.

 

 

 

I know somebody who has invested in Eagle having run 1x happily and successfully for a year or so. Maybe I can ask him for a test drive.

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Ah, but I already have 2x10 XX.

 

My question above was other than the loss of FD and left hand shifter which  looks cooler,  why should I spend R28k to end up in the same position I am now except for bigger gaps in the ratio.

 

I have learnt :

 

Can mount dropper post on HB - valid argument, but I don't have a dropper;

Reduces or eliminates chain suck - valid argument;

 

 

Simplifies shifting - Mmmm, not so sure. The way I use my 2x10 is basically two 1x10 set-ups. If the terrain is flattish or rolling or downhill, I shift once to the big ring and moderate cadence/effort by moving up and down the cassette. If the terrain is primarily uphill or I need  quick but limited acceleration, I move to the small ring and move up and down at the back.  I try not to cross chain but either way the angle is not as acute as on a 1x albeit that that chain is designed to accommodate it.  But that is just me.

 

1x12 gives same range as 2x10 - OK, but is it worth R28k to get the same;

 

The gaps between ratios are bigger but that is apparently not noticeable and reduced by going 12x. Accepted, I have noticed it when fitting a 40 tooth to by Gravel grinder when touring in the berg.

 

 

 

I know somebody who has invested in Eagle having run 1x happily and successfully for a year or so. Maybe I can ask him for a test drive.

 

I agree, I have gone from 2x10 to 1x11 (both top SRAM) and I find the 2x shifting easier, especially in up-down Cape conditions. When you get to the bottom the decent, it is quick to drop one ring upfront for the climb. Likewise, when going over the peak, it is just one quick shift onto the large chainring. Not up and down whole cassettes.

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Ah, but I already have 2x10 XX.

 

My question above was other than the loss of FD and left hand shifter which  looks cooler,  why should I spend R28k to end up in the same position I am now except for bigger gaps in the ratio.

 

I have learnt :

 

Can mount dropper post on HB - valid argument, but I don't have a dropper;

Reduces or eliminates chain suck - valid argument;

 

 

Simplifies shifting - Mmmm, not so sure. The way I use my 2x10 is basically two 1x10 set-ups. If the terrain is flattish or rolling or downhill, I shift once to the big ring and moderate cadence/effort by moving up and down the cassette. If the terrain is primarily uphill or I need  quick but limited acceleration, I move to the small ring and move up and down at the back.  I try not to cross chain but either way the angle is not as acute as on a 1x albeit that that chain is designed to accommodate it.  But that is just me.

 

1x12 gives same range as 2x10 - OK, but is it worth R28k to get the same;

 

The gaps between ratios are bigger but that is apparently not noticeable and reduced by going 12x. Accepted, I have noticed it when fitting a 40 tooth to by Gravel grinder when touring in the berg.

 

 

 

I know somebody who has invested in Eagle having run 1x happily and successfully for a year or so. Maybe I can ask him for a test drive.

 

I also had XX/XO mix and only went to a custom XX1 setup (11-45) 6 months ago. 

 

For me there was no real reason to move away from 2x10 as I race mostly marathons. I only moved over to 1X11 due to my 2x10 stuff starting to show its age and staring to need replacing. Plus I got my 1X11 for a steal.

 

For me the benefits are weight.

One less this to go wrong.

The Clutch & X-Horizon RD.

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I agree, I have gone from 2x10 to 1x11 (both top SRAM) and I find the 2x shifting easier, especially in up-down Cape conditions. When you get to the bottom the decent, it is quick to drop one ring upfront for the climb. Likewise, when going over the peak, it is just one quick shift onto the large chainring. Not up and down whole cassettes.

I was about to point out the same thing. On an unfamiliar track you come around a corner and BAM...you're on a steep uphill that you didn't see coming. Dropping gear on the front ring in times like these, helps you keep your momentum. Instead of grinding all the way up your dinner plate of a cassette.

 

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Apples with Apples not Apples(Eagle 10-50 = 360g) and Watermelons(XT 11-36 = 338g) my friend. :P

 

There are obviously a few more differences :). But to me the notion of spending R7200 on a cassette, on a wear and tear item, is insane.

 

I just bought my girlfriend a nearly new Silverback Sola 1 for that price. A whole bike with full XT, Arch wheelset, decent fork....

Edited by Baracuda
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Ah, but I already have 2x10 XX.

 

My question above was other than the loss of FD and left hand shifter which looks cooler, why should I spend R28k to end up in the same position I am now except for bigger gaps in the ratio.

 

I have learnt :

 

Can mount dropper post on HB - valid argument, but I don't have a dropper;

Reduces or eliminates chain suck - valid argument;

 

 

Simplifies shifting - Mmmm, not so sure. The way I use my 2x10 is basically two 1x10 set-ups. If the terrain is flattish or rolling or downhill, I shift once to the big ring and moderate cadence/effort by moving up and down the cassette. If the terrain is primarily uphill or I need quick but limited acceleration, I move to the small ring and move up and down at the back. I try not to cross chain but either way the angle is not as acute as on a 1x albeit that that chain is designed to accommodate it. But that is just me.

 

1x12 gives same range as 2x10 - OK, but is it worth R28k to get the same;

 

The gaps between ratios are bigger but that is apparently not noticeable and reduced by going 12x. Accepted, I have noticed it when fitting a 40 tooth to by Gravel grinder when touring in the berg.

 

 

 

I know somebody who has invested in Eagle having run 1x happily and successfully for a year or so. Maybe I can ask him for a test drive.

You forget - he likes to ride 1 x 1 a lot....
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There are obviously a few more differences :). But to me the notion of spending R7200 on a cassette, on a wear and tear item, is insane.

 

I just bought my girlfriend a nearly new Silverback Sola 1 for that price. A whole bike with full XT, Arch wheelset, decent fork....

Dude, you are comparing a high end racing component with a low/mid end second hand item that you got for steal... how does this make sense?

 

To the gear ratio discussion: for the occasional weekend rider/racer a 1x10/11/12 setup may not make sense from a fitness point alone. Once you are properly fit and look at how to improve your racing performance weight, simplicity and reliability become more important factors.

 

I can say for myself that I shift with one turn on the gripshifter across the entire cassette faster and more accurate than I ever did on 2x10 XT.

 

BTW, by now I have almost 5000km on my XO1 cassette, still going strong and accepting new chains. That is far more than I ever had on XT cassettes. So maybe the cost/km is not so bad at the end of the day....

 

 

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Dude, you are comparing a high end racing component with a low/mid end second hand item that you got for steal... how does this make sense?

 

To the gear ratio discussion: for the occasional weekend rider/racer a 1x10/11/12 setup may not make sense from a fitness point alone. Once you are properly fit and look at how to improve your racing performance weight, simplicity and reliability become more important factors.

 

I can say for myself that I shift with one turn on the gripshifter across the entire cassette faster and more accurate than I ever did on 2x10 XT.

 

BTW, by now I have almost 5000km on my XO1 cassette, still going strong and accepting new chains. That is far more than I ever had on XT cassettes. So maybe the cost/km is not so bad at the end of the day....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

What he said... :thumbup:

 

I'm on +8000km on my XX1 cassette. Still good with no chain slip.

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